Crocheted Cotton Bag with Lining

Hi there, Here is my latest video :)

PART 1

PART 2

Knitted Cable Beanie

KNITTED CABLE BEANIE

THIS PATTERN IS FOR SALE AT RAVELRY  AT

 Ravelry at http://www.ravelry.com/people/gillyscraftworld

KNITTED CABLED KIMONO

Here we have a knitted kimono and the pattern is on the video.

To make a different size you would:

The stitch pattern consists of 15 stitches plus 3. 
The amount of stitches that you cast on is going to give you half the length of the kimono (how long you want it to be Remember you will double it as you are joining 2 rectangles).The part that wraps around the body is the easiest part as that is the length you keep knitting so you can wrap one of the rectangles around as you are knitting and see if the length you are knitting fits around and just stop when it is how you want it.  So you will need to measure the child or baby from the neck down to how far down the body you want it to go, halve that measurement as you are making 2 rectangles and then make sure the amount of stitches you cast on will fit into that measurement. So if the child measures from the neck down about 15 inches you will have that to about 7 or 8 inches, work a swatch and see how many cables fit into 7 or 8 inches and cast on that amount. So if 2 cables fit in there you would cast on 15 stitches x 2 plus 3 so cast on 33 stitches. If 3 cables then 15 x 3 plus 3 so 48 stitches. I hope this isn't too confusing. Let me know if you need any more help :)

Crocheted Cabled Wristlets

My latest project. I hope you enjoy making them!

CROCHET COLOR COWL/INFINITY SCARF

CROCHET COLOR COWL

dc = double crochet      *  *  rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet        st = stitch
ss = slip stitch               sp = space
ch = chain                      cnr = corner
Beg ch3 = 1dc                       picot = ch3, 1sc into the 1st ch
dc tog = double crochet together                      Tr = treble


The numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.

I am using Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable yarn which is a size 4 medium
I am using a 5:00mm or size H crochet hook

A pattern repeat is 10 stitches and I am doing 5 repeats so have 50ch

PATTERN

Foundation row numbers 1 and 2
1.  Ch50 plus an extra 4ch (54ch all together) the extra 4 stand for 1dc and skip 1

2.  1dc into the 5th ch from the hook, Ch3, skip 1ch, 1sc in the next st
     * ch5, skip 3ch, 1sc in the next ch
      ch3, skip 1ch, 3dc tog in the next 3ch
     ch3, skip 1, 1sc into the next ch,* rep between the stars
ending with your ch5, skip 3ch, 1sc in the next ch, ch3, skip 1ch, 2dc tog in the last 2stitches

THE NEXT 4 ROWS FORM YOUR PATTERN (THE YELLOW'S ARE THE SAME AND THE BLUE'S ARE THE SAME EXCEPT FOR THEIR BEG AND ENDINGS)

*3.  ch1, 1sc in the dc, turn your work around,

(ROW 1 BEGINNING)  ch5, 5dc in the ch5 sp,

*ch5, 1sc above the 3dc tog, ch5, 5dc in the ch5 sp* rep this to the end,

(ROW 1 ENDING) ending with 5dc in the ch 5 sp, ch5, 1sc in the middle of the 2dc from previous row

4.  Ch6, turn,
(ROW 2 BEGINNING) 1sc in the 2nd last ch of the 1st ch sp,

* ch3, 3dc tog in the middle 3dc of the 5dc, ch3, 1sc in the 2nd last ch, ch5, 1sc in the 2nd last ch,* rep (you are making 3 ch spaces in this row)

(ROW 2 ENDING) ending with ch3, 1sc in the 2nd last ch (leaving 3ch below on hook to stand as a dc) ch2, 1tr in the sc of previous row.

5.  Ch3, turn,

(ROW 3 BEGINNING) 2dc in the same place, 
*ch5, 1sc above the 3dc tog, ch5, 5dc in the ch5 sp* rep this to the end

(ROW 3 ENDING), ending with 1sc above the 3dc tog, ch5, 3dc in the 3rd ch from the bottom(so it makes a dc)

6.  Ch3, turn,

(ROW 4 BEGINNING) 1dc in the middle of the 3dc,
* ch3, 1sc in the 2nd last ch, ch5, 1sc in the 2nd last ch, ch3, 3dc tog in the middle 3dc of the 5dc,*rep (you are making 3 ch spaces in this row)

(ROW 4 ENDING) ending with ch5, 1sc in the 2nd last ch, ch3, 2dc tog in the last 2dc

7.  MY LENGTH IS 38 inches and I finished on row 4

8. BORDER - start anywhere

We are doing 1dc, 1tr, 1dc tog in one stitch, ch3, 1picot, all the way around. Be careful not to do them too close together else you will have too many and they will start looking clumpy.

CROCHETING A DOILY

                                  DOILY

The numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on this written pattern.

I am using Red Heart Crochet Thread for this project and a size 4.25mm crochet hook.

dc = double crochet      *  *  rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet        st = stitch
ss = slip stitch               sp = space
ch = chain                      cnr = corner
Beg ch3 = 1dc                       picot = ch3, 1sc into the 1st ch
dc tog = double crochet together

1.  Ch 8, ss into the 1st ch

2.  Ch3 (standing as 1st dc), 23dc in the ring, ss into top of ch = 24 dc in the ring

3.  Ch4, (standing as 1st dc, and ch1) 1dc in the same st, ch1,* 1dc in the next dc, ch1* rep all the way around = 24dc, finishing with a ch1 and ss into the 1st dc

4. Ch5, (stands as 1dc, ch2), *1dc into the dc, ch2* rep all the way around, ss into the 3rd ch = 24dc.

5.  ch1,* 1sc in each of the next 2 ch and 1sc in the dc* rep all the way around, ss into the beg ch1. If this is too hard, do 3sc in each ch sp.

6.  Ch3, 1dc in the sc which is above the 1st dc, ch2, 1dc in the very beginning ch3 (making your dc backwards), ch4, skip the sc which is just above the 1st dc and make 1dc in the sc just above the next dc , ch2, 1dc into the sc of the sc above the dc you had skipped, ch4,
* skip the sc which is just above the 1st dc and make 1dc in the sc just above the next dc , ch2, 1dc into the sc of the sc above the dc you had skipped, ch4,* Repeat all the way around ending with ch4  and sc into the ch 2 sp.

7. (Changed color), 1 picot, 1sc in the 1st 2ch sp, 4sc in the next ch sp,
 all of the following is done in the next ch sp, 1sc, 1ch, 1picot, 1ch, 1dc, 1 picot, 1dc, 1picot, ch1, 1 picot, ch1, 1sc (the 2 ch sp between the 2dc), 4sc in the next ch sp,
*1sc, 1 picot, 1sc in the next ch sp, 4sc in the next ch sp, all of the following is done in the next ch sp, 1sc, 1ch, 1picot, 1ch, 1dc, 1 picot, 1dc, 1picot, ch1, 1 picot, ch1, 1sc (the 2 ch sp between the 2dc), 4sc in the next ch sp, * rep this around, ss into 1st st

How to Crochet a Flower Bracelet

HOW TO CROCHET A FLOWER BRACELET

Here is a link to this video on Curious.Com 

 https://curious.com/gillyscraftworld/how-to-crochet-a-flower-bracelet

Baby's Cotton Hat

BABY'S COTTON HAT

Aunt Lydia's cotton in a size 10, doubled and a size 2.75mm crochet hook

dc = double crochet      *  *  rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet        st = stitch
ss = slip stitch               sp = space
ch = chain                      cnr = corner
hdc = half a double crochet
tr = treble

Picot = ch3 and ss or sc into the 1st ch

REMEMBER - the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.
Remember we are doubling our yarn

1. Ch7, ss into the first stitch

2. Ch5 (stands as 1dc, 2ch),* 1dc in the next st, ch2* rep between stars until you have 8dc including the 1st ch 5, ss into the 3rd ch

3. Ch4, *2tr in the next ch, 2 tr in the next ch (so that is 4tr in the next ch sp), ch2* repeat in between stars all the way around (32tr all together), ss into the 4th ch

4. Ch4, 2tr in the next tr, 2tr in the next tr, 1tr in the last tr, ch5, *1tr in next st, 2tr in next st, 2tr in next st, 1tr in next st, ch5* repeat to end, ss into the 4th ch

5. Ch4, 5tr tog in the next 4tr, ch5, 3tr  in the middle ch of the next ch sp, ch5,  *6tr tog in the next 6 tr, ch5, 3tr in the middle ch of the next ch sp, ch5* repeat between the stars to the end, ending with 3ch, 1dc into the middle of the 6tr tog

6. ch7, *1sc in the middle of the ch 5, 2dc in the 1st tr, 2dc tog in the middle tr, 2dc in the next tr, 1sc in the middle of the ch5, ch7, * rep in the stars to the end, ending with a sc in the top of the dc you made

7.  ch6, 1sc in the middle of the ch7, *2tr tog in the next 2st (in the dc not in the sc), 3ch, 3tr tog (1 in the same place as the previous st, 1 in the next st and 1 in the next st), 3ch, 2tr tog in the prev stitch (the one you just worked in)  and the next st, 1sc into the middle of the ch7,* rep this, ending with a ss and new color

8. Ch5 (3 for our picot), ch2, 1sc into the 1st sc you had made on previous round, *ch2, 1 picot, ch2, 1sc above the 3tr, ch2, 1sc in the next tr, * repeat in the stars to end (you are doing the sc into each of those tr from previous round) ss into the 1st stitch - 24 picots

9.  Ch6, 1dc in the sc, 1 picot,* ch3, 1dc in the sc, ch3, 1picot, ch3, 1dc in the sc*, rep in the stars all the way around but instead of a dc in the sc at end ss into the 3rd ch of the beg 6 chain, 1 picot = 24 picot

10. Ch3, 1dc in the same space, 1 picot, ch3,* 1dc in the next space, 1 picot, ch3,* repeat this to the end - 24 picots, ss into the top of the 1st picot.

11. Change yarn if you are changing colors. Restart your work in the 1st ch sp,
Ch3 (stands for 1st dc) 1dc in the same sp, ch2, 2dc in the next ch sp, *2dc in the next ch sp, ch2* repeat to the end (24 sets of dc), end with ch2 and ss into the top of the ch3

12. Ch3, 1dc in the next dc, *1dc in each of the 2dc, ch2* repeat around ss into the top of the ch3

13. repeat row 12 until the length is as long as you want it. I did 4 rows

14.  ch3 as a picot, 1sc or 2sc in the next ch sp, 1sc in between the 2dc, *1 picot, 1sc or 2sc in next ch sp, 1sc in between the 2dc * repeat to the end - it is better to do 2sc not 1sc go to the end and ss into the 1st st

Crochet a Butterfly in Bruges Lace Part 1-3

CROCHET BUTTERFLY IN BRUGES LACE

I am using Bernat Baby Softee Yarn (size 3) with a size 3.75mm crochet hook
You can do it in a thin thread as well

This will look very nice sewn onto a blanket or a pillow

dc = double crochet      *  *  rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet        st = stitch
ss = slip stitch               sp = space
ch = chain                      cnr = corner
hdc = half a double crochet
dtr = double treble

2dc tog = wrap yarn around hook, go into stitch, bring up a loop, go thru 2 loops, wrap yarn around hook, go into stitch, go thru 2 loops, go thru all the loops (be sure whether they are done in the same stitch or in the next 2 stitches)

Remember the Numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.

Body of Butterfly

1.  Make a slip knot, ch2 and then do 4dc in the 1st ch, Ch3, turn your work around

2. 2dc in the next stitch (not the very 1st one), 1dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in the chain from the previous round (very last st), ch3, turn work around

3. 1dc in each of the next 5dc, 1dc in the last ch, ch3 turn

4. 1dc in each of the next 6dc, (the last dc in the top ch), ch3, turn work around

5. same as row 4

6. same as row 4

7. 2dc tog in the next 2 stitches, 1dc in the next st, 2dc tog in the next 2 st, 1dc in the last st, ch3 turn

8. 4dc in the next 4 stitches, ch3, turn

9. same as row 8

10. 2dc in the next st, 1dc in the next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in the last st, 3ch, turn

11-14.  1dc in each of the next dc (6dc in all), ch4, turn

15. 2dc tog in the next 2 st, 1dc in the next st, 3 dc tog in the next 3 st, ch3 turn

16. 1dc in the same place as the ch3, 1dc in the next st, 2dc tog in the last st, ch3, turn

17. 4dc in the next 4 st,

18. ch 23, skip the 1st st and ss in the next 3, 1sc in next st, 1hdc, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc, ss in the next 11 st, turn your work, 1dc in the next st, 1dc in next, 2dc tog in the next 2 stitches,

19. ch 20, skip 1, ss in the next 3, 1sc in next, 1hdc, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc, 11ss to the end, finish work and cut off your yarn

PART 2
BRUGES LACE WINGS

1.  Ch 7, skip 3 ch and 1dc in the next ch, 1dc in the next ch, ch1, skip the next ch and 1dc in the last ch

2.  Ch4, turn work around, 1dc in the very 1st dc, ch1, 1dc in the next dc, 1dc in the last dc

3. Ch4, turn work around, 1dc in the next 2 dc (go into the very 1st dc), ch1, 1dc in the last dc (not in the ch loop)

4.  Repeat row 2 and 3 until you have 10 (ch4) loops on the side where you have the 2dc's  (watch at the number 4 on video)

5.  Finish the row with the 10th ch 4 loop, then
 ch4 turn your work around, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in the next 2 dc,  this will now be your 11th ch 4 loop on the 2dc side, so ch4 and turn and do 2dc in the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in the last dc,
ch4 turn your work around and 1dc in the 1st dc, ch1, 2dc in the last 2dc, This ch4 loop would have been your 12th loop

6.  With your 2dc side facing each other fold your lace and ss into the opp lace's first stitch (watch video to see where if unsure) and into the last stitch, making a circle with your lace.   Flip your work around and go into the 1st 2dc with 1dc in each, 1ch, 1dc in the last dc, (you should have 11 ch 4 loops on the OUTSIDE) this ch4 is your 12th loop and turn

7.  1dc in the 1st dc, ch1, 1dc in the next 2dc, NO ch4 on this side, instead we are doing a ch3 standing for our 1st dc, turn work around and 1dc in the next dc (2nd one), ch1, 1dc in the last dc, ch4, turn your work around (this being your 13th loop on the outside you have just made)

8.  1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc (the 2nd one is going into the top of the previous ch3 you had made),

9.  Ch2, ss into 1st open loop on left hand side's "tape", ch2, turn your work around, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc, ch4, turn your work, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in the next 2dc

10.  Same as number 9

11.  Same as number 9 except make a dc instead of a ss into the next loop

12.  Ch4, turn, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in last dc, ch4 turn work around, 1dc in next dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc,

13.  same as number 11

14.  same as number 12

15.  Ch2, 1dc in the next loop, ch2, turn your work, 1dc in each of the next 2 dc, ch1, 1dc, WE ARE NOW JOINING ONTO THE BODY, Ch2, join onto body with a sc, ch2, turn your work around, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc,

16.  Ch2, 1dtr into the same loop as previous row, ch2, turn work, 1dc in the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in the next, ch2, 1sc into body, ch2, turn work around, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc,

17, ch4, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc, ch2, sc into the body, ch2 turn around, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch4, turn around, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, 1ch, 1dc in the next,

18.  ch2, join with a sc onto the body, ch2, turn, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch4, turn,  1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in the next,

PART 3

19. Once you have made your 17th loop finish that row with 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch4 turn, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in the next

20. Your 18th loop is now going to be joined, so twist your tape around so that the 18th loop is still on the outside and  we will be joining now onto the 2nd last loop (watch video).  So Ch 2, sc into opp loop, ch2,  1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2, ch4, turn/flip it over, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc,

21. Ch2, sc into the next loop (look at video), ch2, 1dc, ch1, 1sc in each of the next 2 dc, ch2, turn your work around 1sc in each of the next 2sc, ch1, 1dc in the last st,

22. Ch2, join with a sc in the loop that you already joined (the double treble you made) (look at video) ch2, turn, 1dc, ch1, 1sc in the next st, 1ss in the next st, ch2, turn 1sc, 1dc, ch1, 1dc,

23. Ch2, skip the next loop and sc into the next one (joining), ch2, turn, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, 2dc in the last stitch, ch2, turn, 1dc in next st, 1dc in the next st, ch1, 1dc in the next dc, ch1, 1dc in the last dc,

24. Ch2, sc join onto next loop, ch2,turn, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in the next st, ch1, 1dc in next st, 1dc in the next st, ch3, turn your work around, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in the next st, ch1, 1dc in the next st, ch1, 1dc in the last st

25. Ch3, turn your work around, 1dc in 1st stitch, 2ch, 1dc in the next dc, ch2, 1dc in the next dc, ch2, 1dc in each of the next 2dc

26. Ch3, turn, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch2, 1dc in the next dc, ch2, 1dc in the next dc, ch2, 1dc in the last dc, ch2, sc to the opp loop (2nd one), ch2, turn,

27.  1dc, ch2, 1dc, ch2, 1dc, ch2, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch3, turn, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, (1dc ch1 1dc in the same place), ch1, 1dc in the next, ch1, 1dc in the last stitch, ch2, skip 1 loop and sc into the next loop,

28.  Ch2, turn, 1dc in 1st st, ch1, 1dc in the next, ch1, 1dc in next, ch1, 1dc in next, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc,

29.  Ch3, turn, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in the ch space, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in the last dc,

30. Ch3, (no joining),* 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc*, ch3 turn, repeat in between stars

31. Ch2, skip 1 loop and sc into next loop, ch2 turn, 1dc in 1st dc, skip 1 loop (on RHS) and sc into the next loop, 1dc in the next dc, 1dc in the next dc, 1sc in the next loop, 1dc in next dc, ch1, 1dc in the next, ch1, 1sc in the next loop, ch1, 1sc in the next dc, 1sc in next loop, finish off

Make the other wing the same way, make sure your butterfly's head is facing up and not down when you attach the next wing.

Tunisian Lacy Crochet Top Part 1 and Part 2

TUNISIAN TOP

Abbreviations – yo = yarn over,  sk = skip, lps = loops,  * * repeat between the asterix

Treble = wrap yarn around hook 2 times, go into stitch and bring up a loop, go through 2 loops, go through 2 loops, go through 2 loops

TKS =Tunisian Knit Stitch = sk 1^st vertical bar, insert hook from front to back, between front and back vertical bars of same stitch, yo, pull lp through, hold all lps on hook.

Tunisian Treble Stitch (TTRS) = yo twice, insert hook as for TKS or as indicated, yo, pull lp through, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) twice.

Tunisian Double Stitch (TDS) = yo, insert hook as for TKS or as indicated, yo, pull lp through, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook.

PART 1

I am using a size 6mm/J afghan hook.

I am using Artiste Crochet Cotton and it is a Number 8

REMEMBER – the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern

SIZING

My wrap measures 62inch long and 12 inches wide. If you want a bigger shrug you will need to add more stitches on and then you will need to make yours longer as well.  If you add about an inch to the width then add about 4 inches to your length.

1.  You need to have stitches in a multitude of 15 plus 3stitches, a minimum of 33 chs)

      I used 90 plus 3 stitches so I chained 93 stitches

2. Holding all lps on hook, yo twice, insert hook into the 3^rd ch from the hook, yo, pull lp through (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) twice,

     *Skip the next 4ch on the hook, (yo, insert hook in next ch, yo, pull lp through, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 5 times, sk next 4 chs,

**yo twice, insert hook in next ch, yo, pull loop through, (yo,pull through 2 lps on hook) twice, rep from ** once, rep from * across.

2a. taking the stitches off the hook – Ch1, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) twice

       *(ch1, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 4 times, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 3 times, rep * across to last 7 lps on hook, (ch 1, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 4 times, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) twice

3.  Ch2 , sk 1^st vertical bar, TTRS in next vertical bar.

     *5 TDS in 3^rd st of next 5-TDS group. TTRS in each of the next 2 TRRS, rep from * across

3a. taking stitches off the hook – Ch1, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) twice, *(ch1, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook (4 times), (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 3 times, rep from * across to last 7 lps on hook, (ch1, yo pull through 2 lps on hook) 4 times, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) twice.

REPEAT ROW 3 and 3a for pattern

4. showing you the stitch again

5.  You can do as many rows as you like in different colors. I made mine in uneven rows. My black row was either 1 or 2 row and my pink and blue ranged from 8 – 14 rows each. So make yours the way you want to and keep going up straight until yours measures about 62 inches long.

Showing stitch and changing colors              PART 2

6.  length about 60 – 62 inches

7. BORDER AROUND

8.  Once you are finished with the length you don’t end your work but your next row will start the border all the way around. So you will

Ch3, 1 Treble in the next stitch, *1dc in each of the next 5 stitches, 1 treble into the next stitch, 1 treble into the next stitch,* repeat between the stars to the end of this row (finishing with your 2 trebles)

9. Going down the first side,

Ch2, 2 dc in the 1^st space, now you want to do double crochet all the way down the side, I have no set amount, just make sure that they are making your work lie flat and not pulling or scrunching your work with too many of them – watch video .

10. Showing a bit of a pattern with the double crochets

11. Across the other bottom, Ch 2, 1dc in each of the “treble stitches”, and 1tr in each of the next 5 stitches (we are doing the opposite to the other side across)

12. Coming up the 2^nd side, same as number 9

13. Showing you how to assemble your wrap

14.  Starting our Border

Make a slip knot and slip stitch into the v on both sides, Ch3 and 1dc into each of the next spaces, all the way around

15. Ss into the 3^rd chain, 1dc into each space all the way around, ss into the 3^rd ch

16. Ch6, sc into the 3^rd ch (making a picot), *1dc in your next sp with ch3 and sc into the 3^rd ch (picot) in the same stitch* repeat all the way around

How to Crochet a Granny Square Jacket

GRANNY SQUARE JACKET


Caron Simply Soft Yarn
Hook 5:00mm


dc = double crochet      *  *  rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet        st = stitch
ss = slip stitch               sp = space
ch = chain                      cnr = corner

Remember that the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.

The Granny Square you are using is on my YouTube and the link is in the info box.
Below is the Pattern for the square.

FLOWER GRANNY SQUARE
Caron Simply Soft
Hook 5:00mm
Size about 5 inches
Chain = ch, Stitch = st, Double Crochet = dc, Single Crochet = sc, Chain Space = ch sp, Space = sp, Slip Stitch = st, Treble = tr,
4Tr cluster = Yarn over twice, hook into stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, (yarn over and draw through 2 loops) twice, do this for 4 trebles and at end yarn over and draw through all the loops (5) on hook
1. Ch 7, ss in first ch to form a ring

2. 2ch, 11sc in ring (=12sc), ss into 2nd ch from beg 2 ch

3. Ch5, dc in next st, *Ch3, dc in next st* repeat in between stars till 12dc, ss into 3rd ch, ss into space

4. Ch 4, 3 treble clusters in same sp (do cluster this beg one the ch 4 stands as the first tr and you have 4 loops on hook), ch 5
4 tr cluster in same sp, ch 5 all around till 12 clusters, ss in top of cluster

5. Change color and ss into space, 6sc in each space

6. 3ch, 2dc, 3ch, 3dc all in same space (Corner made), *skip next st, 1dc in next, skip next, 1dc in next, till you have made 8dc, make a corner in next stitch (3dc 3ch, 3dc)* , repeat stars till 4 corners made and 8 dc take you to the end.( You have 3 spaces where you made the 6sc(row 5) where you are making the 8dc over these 3 and then you make your corner)
 (In other words You are making a cnr above the first petal, then you make 8dc over 2 more petals and above the 4th petal you make another cnr, then you make another 8 dc over the next 2 petals and above the 7th petal you make another cnr, make another 8dc over another 2 petals and above the 10th petal you make another corner and then make another 8dc till you get to the beginning cnr and you ss to the beg ch3)

MAKING THE JACKET
1.  Depending on what size jacket you make and how many rows of squares you make will depend on how many squares you will need. For the jacket that I made I used 110 squares.

The small is using 2 for the left front, 2 for the right front and 4 for the back, so that is a strip of 8 motifs and you can make it however long you want your jacket (I went up 6 strips)

The medium (the one shown on the video) uses 2.5 for the front left, and 2.5 for the front right and the back used 4 plus the 2 halves left from the 2 front motifs. So that makes a strip of 10 motifs and I made 6 strips of 10 for my length.

The large is using 3 for the left front and 3 for the right front and 6 for the back so that is a strip of 12 and also going up 6 or longer

You can measure your square and multiply it by however many you make in a strip so if it is a 5 inch square and you are making the smaller jacket you would say 8 squares multiplie by 5 inches and that would give you 40 inches around your body. Measure over your hips and see how it will fit, remember you want it bigger as you don't want it to fit tight like a skirt, you will want some space for it to flow

Make sure your sleeve border has the same amount of stitches as each other and do the same thing as you do for the centre front.

2.  Placing your sleeves

3.  Medium sleeve - showing you how to sew the triangle part on

4.  Other 2 sizes triangle

5. Neck Border - start with the right side of your work facing you and ch 3, 1dc in each stitch so that your work lies flat. At the first join - you sc 3 together, 1dc in each of the next stitches, next join, you sc 2 together, 1dc in each of the next stitches, and do the same thing going back down the neck, go all the way around your jacket with dc

6. 2nd round, 1 dc in each and where you decreased you decrease again, both times only 2sc together, go all the way around jacket again

7. Sewing part of the neck

8. Do as many rows all the way around your jacket of dc, as you want, and very last row = Ch3, *3dc in next st, ss, in the next 3 stitches* repeat this all the way around, except do 4dc instead of ch3 and 3dc

How to Crochet a Poncho

Hi there

This is a really cute poncho which is made out of squares and is pretty easy to assemble. I hope you have fun making it! You can crochet it together as you go or you can sew it together.

Remember that the numbers here correspond to the numbers on the video!
PART 1

SCHEMATIC - these section is at about 15 minutes at number 11 on Part 2

This is the schematic to the poncho. Where the dotted lines are, that is where it will be folded over.
The numbers I will be numbering down below (1-7) and explaining are the ones circled on this schematic.
1. Make a strip of 10 together
2. Attach another 10 motifs (one at a time) to the first strip
3. Attach another 10 like row 2 to the next strip
4. On either end attach 3 motifs
5. Attach another 3 motifs
6. Attach another 3 motifs
7. Flip row 1 over so it is in half (5 motifs either side). These 3 motifs are done while attaching to row 6 and to the top portion of the halved section

One Square measures about 6.5 inches.

GRANNY SQUARE PONCHO

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 

Ch = chain,  * * =repeat work in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch

Treble Crochet = yarn over 2 times, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull up 2 loops) 3 times = tr

Double Treble Crochet =  yo (yarn over) 3 times, insert hook into the desired st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through two loops) 4 times. = dtr

1tr, 1dtr, 1tr together = watch video at number 7

Dc 2 tog = yo, hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops (2 loops left), yo, hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops and then through all the rest.

2sc tog, Go into the stitch, bring up a loop, go into next stitch, bring up a loop and go through all the stitches on the hook

I used I Love this Yarn, super soft. Neon colors, yellow and pink. It is acrylic and a 4 medium. I used a size 5.00mm/H crochet hook. You will need about 3-4 skeins of the pink and about 3 of the yellow.

 You need to make 42 squares all together

Join a strip of 10 motifs together first and then you will join the others.

1.  Ch5, ss into 1^st ch to form a circle

2.  Ch4 (stands as your 1^st dc), *dc, ch1* = 8dc including the ch4, ss into 3^rd ch,

3. Ch4, 3dc in the 1^st space, ch1, *3dc, ch1 in the next sp* rep in the next spaces and in the last space you only do 2dc as the ch4 from the beginning ch stands as 1dc = 8 (3dc) clusters, ss to top of ch4

4.  Ch5, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, all in the 1^st space, *1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc In the next ch sp (skip over the 3dc)* rep to end, ss into 3^rd ch. Cut off yarn.

5.  Start with new color and sc in between the last 2dc off any of the “4dc cluster”

Ch2, 2dc tog in the next 2 spaces (the middle space and the 1^st space of the 4dc), ch3, sc into next space, ch3, *3dc tog into next sp, ch3, sc in next sp, ch3* rep to the end and ss into the top of the 3dc tog.

6. Ch5, 1dc, ch2, 1dc, ch2, 1dc, ch2, 1dc, in the same space (you need 5dc with 2ch in between them, no ch after 5^th dc though) *1dc, ch2, 1dc, ch2, 1dc, ch2, 1dc, ch2, 1dc all in the stitch above the 3dc tog* rep around (skip all the other stitches), ss into 3^rd ch of the ch5. End yarn

7.  Start new color and start in between the last 2dc of the 5dc

Ch3, 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next st, together (so don’t finish the stitch – watch video), ch6, sc in next sp, ch1 sc in the next sp, ch2, 3dc tog over the next 3 stitches, ch2, 1sc in next st, ch1, 1sc in next sp, ch6, *1tr, 1dt, 1tr together over the next 3 spaces, ch6, 1sc in next sp, ch1, 1sc in next st, ch2, 3dc tog over the next 3 spaces, ch2, 1sc in next sp, ch1, 1sc in next sp, ch6* repeat this to end, ss into the top of the 3tr

8. Ch5, 2dc in the same space, ch3, sc in next ch6 sp, ch3, 1dc in the ch1 sp, ch3, 1sc above the 3dc tog, ch3, 1dc in the ch1 sp, ch3, 1sc in the ch6 sp, *2dc 2ch, 2dc in the stitch above the trebles tog, ch3, sc in the ch6 sp, ch3, 1dc in the 1ch sp, ch3, 1sc above the 3dc tog, ch3, 1dc in the ch1 sp, ch3, 1sc in the ch 6 sp, ch3* repeat to end and 1dc next to the beg ch5 and ss into 3^rd ch of the ch5

PART 2

JOINING MOTIFS

You will join a strip of 10 together first and then join the other strip of 10 onto that strip and another set of 10 onto that strip so that you have 3 strips of 10 joined together. 

Then you will add 3 rows of 3 onto the one side of the strip of 10 leaving you with 3 motifs which we will join to the 3 rows of 3

9.  I am showing you how to join the very first square to another one.

 You join in a corner and do 2dc, ch1, 1sc in the opp motifs corner,

 1ch, 2dc in the 1^st motifs corner, ch1, 1sc in opp motif,

 ch1, 1sc in 1^st motif, ch1, 1sc in opp motif,

 ch1, 1dc in the 1^st motif, ch1, 1sc in opp motif,

 ch1, 1sc in 1^st motif, ch1, 1sc in opp motif,

 ch1, 1dc in 1^st motif, ch1, 1sc in opp motif,

 ch1, 1sc in 1^st motif, ch1, 1sc in opp motif (you should be in the space next to the corner)

ch1, 2dc in the 1^st motif corner, ch1, 1sc in opp motif (in the space between the sets of dc)

ch1, 2dc in 1^st motif corner (finishing that corner),

ch3, and finish your square as you normally do (no 8)

10. Joining more than 1 side, and 2 out of 3 corners

11. Showing you how to assemble your poncho

12. How to join the last 3 motifs

13.  BORDER

 Start anywhere on the edge of poncho only on the outside not by the neckline.

*Ch 24, sc into the bottom of the ch 24, 1sc into the next stitch* repeat to the end

14. Neck Edge Border. Make sure your poncho is the way I am wearing it on the introduction with one square at the bottom and it forms a triangle. That is the way the neck border is being done.

Start anywhere and ch3, 1 dc in every space. Place markers where you are making your v for the neck

15. First row ch3, 1 dc in each space on the squares.

      2^nd row, 1 dc in each space. Place a piece of yarn by the V on either side so you know where to decrease.

16. On rows 3, 4 and 5 you (changing color on the 4^th row) decrease.

17. Showing you on row 6, how to decrease

18. Do another 2 more rows in yellow with the decreases

19. ss into 1^st stitch, ch1 ,2 sc tog in the next 2 stitches, 1 sc around to where you did your other decreases and decrease x2 in the middle section and one more time at the end

20. ss into 1^st stitch, ch1, do the same as above 19

21. Do another row as above 19 ( this would be row 11 if you counted from beginning of border)

22. Ch3, skip 1 stitch, sc into the next stitch, ch3 and then go backwards and do a sc into the stitch that you had missed. *ch 3, skip 1 stitch, 1sc into the next stitch, ch3, 1sc into the missed stitch (backwards)* rep to end.

Finished!

How to Crochet a Granny Square Hat

Hi there,

This is a lesson on making a granny square hat using 5 squares and sewing them together.

Video is at http://curious.com/gillyscraftworld/crochet-a-hat-with-5-granny-squares


                                  HOW TO CROCHET A GRANNY SQUARE HAT

dc = double crochet      *  *  rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet        st = stitch
ss = slip stitch               sp = space
ch = chain                      cnr = corner

Yarn used is Caron Simply Soft Size 4 medium and I used a size 5:00mm / H Hook
We are making 5 granny squares with 6 rounds each measuring about 5.5 inches.
The numbers on here correspond to the numbers on the video

How to Crochet a Granny Square

Hi there,

The video is found http://curious.com/gillyscraftworld/how-to-crochet-a-granny-square

HOW TO CROCHET A GRANNY SQUARE

How To Crochet Baby Booties

Crochet Baby Booties

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 

Ch = chain,  * * =repeat work in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch, hdc = half a double crochet

Dc 3 tog  = yo, hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops (2 loops left), yo, hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops, yo hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops and through all st

I am using Baby Bernat Softee yarn which is a size 3 light acrylic yarn and a size 3.75mm hook or F

I am not sure of what age this fits but the sole of the bootie measures about  about 3 inches. And the whole bootie is about 4 inches lengthwise.

Remember that the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on this written pattern!

On the video at about 2.30 minutes, I left out that you need to make 1hdc in the last stitch (after the 6sc) It is by the number 2. 

1.  Ch10

2.  2hdc in the 3^rd ch from the hook,

     1sc in each of the next 6 stitches, you should have 1ch left and you do 5dc in that last ch

     Keep going (you should be on the opp side of the work you did) and 1sc in each of the next

     6 stitches, 1hdc in the last stitch (before the 2ch that you skipped in the beg when you went 

     Into the 3^rd ch from hook) I LEFT IT OUT ON THE VIDEO  slip stitch into the 2^nd ch (21 stitches)

3.  Ch2, 1hdc in the same place, 2hdc in each of the next 2 st, 1hdc in each of the next 6 st,         2hdc       

      In the next st and 1hdc in the next, 2hdc in the next st and 1hdc in the next st, 2hdc in the

      Next st, , 1hdc in the next 6 st, 2hdc in the last st, ss into the beg ch2 (28 st)

4.  Ch2, 1hdc in the same st, 2hdc in each of the next 3 st, 1sc in the next 8st, 1hdc in the next st,        2dc in each of the next 5st, 1hdc in the next st, 1sc in each of the next 9st, ss into beg ch

5.  Ch1, 1sc in each of the next 19stm 1hdc in the next st, 2hdc in each of the next 4st, 1hdc in

       Next st, 1sc in each of the next 12 st, ss into beg sc (41^st and we stay at 41^st)

6.  We work in the back loop only of all the rest of the rows

      Ch2, 1hdc in each st around (going into the back loop), join in the beg ch 2, TURN YOUR

     WORK AROUND

7.  Ch2,1hdc in each st, join in 2^nd ch of beg ch2, Turn

8.  Ch2, 1hdc in each st, join in 2^nd ch of beg ch 2, Turn

9.  Ch2, 1hdc in each of the next 9st,( dc 3 tog) x5, 1hdc in the remaining stitches around, join in 

      2^nd ch of beg ch2, (31 stitched) Turn

10. Ch1, sc in each of the next 16st, (dc3 tog)x2, 1sc in each remaining st around (27st) Turn

11.  Working in both loops again, Ch1, 1sc in each stitch around, ss to beg st

12.  Ch1, reverse sc in each stitch around, ss to 1^st st. Fasten off

13. Ch 50 to make a bow to tie around.

How to Crochet a Granny Square Hat

Hi there,

I thought I would make a granny square hat as it is so easy and here it is!
Remember the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.

HOW TO CROCHET A GRANNY SQUARE HAT

I used Caron Simply Soft yarn in the navy, turquoise, yellow, red and orange

I used a size 5.00mm hook

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 

Ch = chain,  * * =repeat work in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch, hdc = half a double crochet

1.  Ch4, (the first 3ch stand as your first double crochet), 11dc in the first ch that you made = 12dc. Sc into the top of the ch3. Change color an finish the sc with your new color

2.  Ch3,1 dc in the same place, *2dc in each st all the way around* = 24dc, Sc into 1^st st and change your yarn color

3.  Ch3, 1dc in the same place, 1dc in the next st,* 2dc in the next st, 1dc in the next st* repeat to the end of the round = 36dc, Sc into the 1^st st and change your color

4.  Ch1, 1sc in each st around = 36sc, sc into 1^st stitch and change color

5.  Ch6 (4 of those ch will stand for your treble),  1Tr into the same st, 1dc in each of the next 2 st, 1hdc in the next st, 1sc in each of the next 2sc, 1hdc in the next st, 1dc in each of the next 2st, 1Tr in the next st, ch2, 1Tr in the same st,

 * 1dc in the next 2 st, 1hdc in the next st, 1sc in each of the next 2sc, 1hdc in the next st, 1dc in each of the next 2st, 1Tr  2ch  1Tr (cnr) in the next stitch* repeat this to end of square but finishing with 1dc in the last 2 stitches and ss into the 4^th ch

6. Ch3, 2dc, ch2, 2dc in the same space (cnr), starting in the very first dc, make 1dc in each of the next 10dc till you get to the next cnr, *2dc in the next space  ch2  2dc in the same space, 10dc in each of the next 10dc* rep to end but ending with the 9dc in each of the next 9dc, as the ch3 that you started with becomes the 10^th dc, ss into the top of that ch3

7.  This round = for the 4 motifs going around your hat, this round will be done in hdc but for the 5^th motif right at the top you will do dc. I will say dc/hdc and use whichever one is needed

Ch3, 1dc/hdc in the next st, 3dc/hdc in the corner, 14 dc/hdc in the next 14st,

*14dc/hdc in the next 14 stitches, 3dc/hdc in the corner* repeat to end, ending with 12dc/hdc as 13 and 14 where made in the beginning, and sc into top of the ch3 you made

8.  Sew your 4 squares together sewing the last one to the 3^rd and 1^st square, sew the 5^th square at the top attaching it to the 4 squares

BORDER

9. Start in the middle of any square, Ch3, 1dc in each of the stitches all around

10. Do another round or as many or less as you need. I did another round of 1sc in each of the dc and then I did one round of reverse single crochet.

How to Crochet a Bracelet Cuff

Hi there, 

I made this bracelet cuff and love the look so decided to share it. It is not a beginners project. If you haven't done color work before you will be better off trying with a thicker yarn before you try this. But all in all it is fairly easy to do. Have fun. Remember that the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on this pattern

BRACELET CUFF

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 

Ch = chain,  * * =repeat work in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch

I used embroidery floss in the black and white. I used 2 black and 4 white. The color one I used 2 blue, 2 pink and 2 black.

I used a size 2.75mm crochet hook. To do the ch and the first row I used a 1.80mm hook.

PATTERN

The cuff measures 18in by 7in

1.  Start with a size 1.80mm hook and chain 55 and sc into the 2^nd ch from the hook, you should have 54 stitches. Do 1 row plain sc.

2.  Change to size 2.75mm hook and turn your work around

 I will be doing sc throughout the pattern, I will do sc in the very first sc.

Each row in the pattern below is repeated 3 times, to get your 3 flowers in. 

W= white,  B= black.  Example   5w, 4bl, 9w = single crochet 5 in white, single crochet 4 in black and single crochet 9 in white – repeat this 3 times.

3.  5w  4bl  9w – repeat 3x

4.  3w  3bl  2w  5bl  5w

5.  4w  5bl  2w  4bl  3w

6.  2w  11bl   5w

7. 5w  11bl  2w

8.  2w  6bl  3w  4bl  3w

9.  2w  5bl  1w  1bl  1w  5bl  3w

10.  5w  2bl  1w  2bl  1w  4bl  3w

11.  2w  4bl  1w  3bl  1w  3bl  4w

12.  3w  4bl  1w  2bl  1w  4bl  3w

13.  3w  4bl  3w  5bl  3w

14.  2w  10bl  6w

15.  5w  6bl  1w  3bl  3w

BORDER

16.  Do one row in plain white sc

17.  Start on the side part of your cuff and we are going to ss all the way around. Start with a ch1 and ss into about 15st as that was how many rows we did. Ss all the way around your cuff.

18.  If you need yours to be longer make a few extra rows of sc only on the ends and then do the border all around

19. Ch1,  Sc into each ss around. The corners may need an extra stitch which you can add if you need to keep your corner flat

20.  ch1, 15sc across the end (add to corner if need be). Along the long side you will* Ch3, sc into the 1^st ch (picot made), sc into the next st, sc into the next st,* repeat along the long side of cuff and then on the end part just do 15sc and repeat the long side of cuff with the picot’s as above.

Add your clasp on the end and you are done.

How to Crochet a Hat with Butterfly Motif

Hi there everyone,
I am very happy with the way my hat turned out so am sharing it with you. Remember that the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the pattern. The whole hat is done in hdc except for the border which you can do in hdc or in the back or forward post hdc like I did.

How to Crochet a Hat with a Butterfly Motif

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 

Ch = chain,  * * =repeat work in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch

P = pink  W=white

This hat is done in half a double crochet – hdc all the way.

I used caron simply soft yarn with a size 6.5 (k) hook.

The numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on this written pattern

1.  Ch 4, ss into the 1^st ch to form a ring

2.  Ch2, 7hdc in the ring = 8hdc, ss into the 1^st ch of the ch2

3.  Ch2 (stands as 1^st hdc) 1hdc in the same sp, *2hdc in each st*, repeat to the end,  ss into 1^st ch = 16hdc

4.  Ch2 (for 1^st hdc), 1hdc in the same sp, 1hdc in the next st, *2hdc in the next st, 1hdc in the next st* rep to end – 24 hdc, ss into 1^st st

5.  Ch2, 1hdc in the same st, 1hdc in next st, 1hdc in the  next st, *2hdc in the next st, 1hdc in the next st, 1hdc in the next st* to the end = 32 hdc, ss into 1^st st

6. Ch2, 1hdc in next st, 1hdc in the next, 1hdc in the next, *2hdc in the next st, 1hdc in each of the next 3st* to the end = 40hdc, ss into 1^st st

7.  Ch2, 1hdc in each of the next 4st, *2hdc in the next st, 1hdc in each of the next 4 st* to the end = 48st, ss into1st st

8.  Ch2, 1 hdc in each of the next 5st, *2hdc in the next st, 1hdc in each of the next 5st* to the end =56st, ss into 1^st st

9. Ch2, 1hdc in each of the next 6st, *2hdc in the next st, 1hdc in each of the next 6st* to the end = 64st, ss into 1^st st

You need to repeat each row twice – P = pink  W =white

10.   Crochet 15p stitches, 1w, 3p, 1w, 12p – repeat this again. Make sure you end with exactly 12 pink stitches

10. You need to repeat each row twice      P = pink  W =white

Butterfly motif pattern

1.     15p  1w  3p  1w  12p  (x2) 

2.     9p  4w  2p  1w  2p  1w  2p  4w  7p  (x2)

3.     7p  7w  1p  1w  1p  1w  1p  7w  6p  (x2)

4.     5p  9w  1p  2w  1p  9w  5p

5.     5p  9w  1p  2w  1p  9w  5p

6.     7p  7w  1p  2w  1p  7w  7p

7.     8p  6w  1p  2w  1p  6w  8p

8.     11p   3w  1p  2w  1p  3w  11p

9.     10p  4w  1p  2w  1p  4w  10p

10.    8p  5w  2p  2w  2p  5w  8p

11.     8p  2w  1p  2w  2p  2w  2p  2w  1p  2w  8p

12.      8p  4w  8p  4w  8p

13.     9p  3w  9p  3w  8p

11. One PLAIN ROW after pattern 

BORDER

23.   1bphdc, 1fphdc all around – watch video – as many rows as you may need.

BPHDC –back post half a double crochet

Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

FPHDC –front post half a double crochet

Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.