Thursday, May 30, 2013


 Hi there,

This is part 2 of How to Crochet a Sleeveless Jacket.  I hope you are enjoying making this jacket so far and if you need any help feel free to ask me any questions.  The best is to work with the pattern and the video together!

On the video I say row 1 and row 2 but it is actually row 2 and row 3 – oops sorry!


Continue straight with your pattern, all the way to your armhole until you feel the length is long enough
Finish with row 3 on the pattern and let’s start the armhole (leave the thread as a marker)

Count the number of chain spaces you have in the row and divide that in half, either 2 equal halves or one will have one more than the other.
The one half  is for the back and the other half is divided between the 2 fronts.
If you have say 25 ch spaces you can divide 13 for the back and 12 for the front (6 and 6 for the front) The front must have to equal amounts.
If you have 26 ch spaces you would have 13 for the back and 13 for the front but the 13 for the front doesn’t divide equally, so you would rather take 14 for the back and 12 (6 and 6) for the front.  Or you could do 12 for the back and divide the 14 (7 and 7).  I would probably do the larger number for the back.
With say 27 you would use 13 and 14 (here you would have to use the smaller number for the back as it is better than 15 for the back and only 12 for the front
As long as the front is divided equally, keeping your back and front ratio as close as you can.

Place a marker on the row you are now starting so that all the rows will be started on the same side and we are starting with the back. You will be starting with row 2 of the pattern

Working the Back

To leave a space under the arm, don’t crochet the last ch sp from the front and the last ch sp from the back (watch video) one ch space from the front and 1 ch space from the back, and start row 2
Work row 2 and leave the last ch sp of the back (for the other armhole) and turn around.
Do row 3 and continue straight on the back till length is good up to the neck. ( At end of row 3 be careful not to make an extra loop, because the last loop there, is where you sc in the t-ch)
Measure how long you want from the armhole to the neck
When your back reaches your neck, finish with row 2 as we will make a slight indentation for the neck. (one row less than the front) Don’t cut your yarn as we will come back and do one more row

First Front

Start on the first front where you left the thread.  Start with row 2 and remember not to work the last ch sp (with the marker), turn and do  row 3, continue till you feel you want to decrease for the neck (to make a slight v in the front centre) (or keep going straight if you don’t want to decrease till 1 row more than the back (we still had one more row to do on the back)) so end with row 3
If decreasing, you don’t want to decrease directly on the front middle edge so go in a few stitches and then decrease
I did one decrease and then I did a normal row and then I did another decrease (so I only made 2 decreases for my front edge and it worked out fine,
Keep doing row 2 and 3 till 1 row more than back (finishing with row 3) end off

Do other Front

Start other front and start with row 2, do your decreases as you did on the other front side (more or less in the same place) and continue doing rows 2 and 3 till this front is the same as other side.

Match your front and back together at the shoulder, and do the last row (row 3 on the back but only as far as the shoulder on the front. So don’t go all the way across.  You want the front shoulder and the back shoulder to match.

First front and Back – last row on back

Line the first front and back up at the shoulders and work row 3 on the back. At the end of row 3, ch 5 and Treble into middle of the next ch 5 space.  End off that side.

Second Front and Back – last row on back

Now finish the back with the other front at the shoulders.  You will be working the opposite way, from the centre to the end.  Count on the row below, on the front that you just finished, how many (sc, ch3, sc) you need for the front you are now doing, plus the one ch sp for the treble you used to finish off the other front. (watch video if you don’t understand).  You will start in the ch sp with ch4 to stand as the treble and ch 5 which you ended off with.  So you will be chaining  9 to start the other side and continue with row 3, finishing the back off.

Sew the front and back shoulders together or crochet them together.

I hope that you are able to follow this easily, it seems more complicated than what it really is!

Friday, May 24, 2013


Hi there 

I have decided to make a sleeveless jacket and thought I would show you how I did it.  There is no set pattern as we are all different sizes so I have given you the outline of how to make your own in your own size.  I hope you enjoy making this jacket.  You can make it in any color or colors and you can decrease or you can simply go straight all the way without any complications. 
Feel free to ask me if you don't understand something.
Have an awesome day
Here is the link to my video on youtube 

It is important to use the written pattern together with the video to fully understand how to crochet this jacket!

I used Caron yarn and a number 5.00mm hook

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 
Ch = chain,  * * = work all in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch,  repeat = rep, skip = sk,   sc in t chain = skip 2 ch and sc in the next ch at row end

Measure yourself at the widest part you would be covering (if garment is longer than your hips then measure your hips. If you are going up to your waist then use your waist unless you want it to be fuller) and make a chain the length of your measurement. If you like your garment looser you can add an extra 5ch or more if you want it really loose.  The stitch is a stretchy stitch and this is yarn not fabric so remember your garment will stretch so you don’t want to go too big.

  The chain needs to be in a multiple of 5 chain plus 2 ch

Example 60 chain plus 2

You will do your chain and follow the pattern stitch until you get to the armhole.  I decreased going up to my armhole (watch video) but you can go straight all the way till you have the length that you want.

Pattern Stitch

Row1:  Sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch5, sk 4ch, sc in next ch, rep from * across, turn

Row 2: Ch6, (sc, ch3, sc) in 1st ch5 sp, *ch5, sk next sc, (sc, ch3, sc) in next ch5 sp, rep from * across to last ch5 sp, ch 2, tr in last sc, turn

Row 3: Ch1, sc in tr, *ch5, sk ch3 sp, (sc, ch3, sc) in next ch5 sp, rep from * across to last ch5 sp, ch5, sk ch3 sp, sc in t-ch , turn

Repeat row 2 and 3 to desired length (to under armhole)

Start row and depending on how many decreases you are doing depends on how many ch5 you make.  Get to where you ch5:   sc in the next ch5 space, (sc, ch3, sc) in the next 5ch sp – 2 loops have become 1  (watch decrease on video if unsure)

Part 2 will follow

Friday, May 17, 2013


Hi there!

I decided to make some earrings as I had never made them before and they turned out really well.  I love wearing them and they look good, so I decided to share them with you and hope you feel the same way. So here is the link to my You Tube Channel and if you need any help feel free to ask me.  Have an awesome day!

Made using Embroidery Thread and size 3.5mm hook
Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 
Ch = chain,  * * = work all in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch

1.    Make a magic circle (with a ch1)

2.     sc in the ring, ch3 (x5) so you have 5 petals, ss into the 1st sc

3.    Change colors here (I have a separate video showing you how to change colors) - Sc in the same sc, ch2,* ( dc in the ch3 space, ch2 -  do this parenthesis  x4 so you have 4dc, don’t include the ch2), sc in the 3rd ch of the 3ch sp and sc in the 1st ch of the next 3ch sp, ch2*, repeat that in between the stars so you have 5 completed petals

4.    Sc in 3rd ch of the 3ch sp, but don’t end off yet we need to add our silver piece that goes into the ear

5.    The sc that you made, stretch it out so that you can thread that stitch into the hole in the silver hoop.  Keep that stitch and put hook into the stitch and ch1 and sc into the bottom of the 1st petal.

Friday, May 10, 2013

How to Read a Pattern and Crochet a Lacy Stitch

Hi there,

I hope you are enjoying the different Patterns so far!  I am going to help you read a pattern in this video and crochet with you so you can understand how to follow a pattern.
Let me know if you have any questions!

Here is the written pattern and the link to my you tube channel -

Multiple of 6 + 1 plus 5 chs
Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 
Ch = chain,  * * = work all in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch

Row 1: Working on chain foundation, DC in 6th ch from hook.
*Ch 5, skip 5 chs, work (DC, Ch2, DC) in next ch. Repeat from *across, Ch 5 Turn.

Row 2: DC under first ch 2, *Ch 2, SC under ch 5, Ch 2, work (DC, Ch 2, DC) under ch 2. Repeat from * across, working last (DC, Ch2, DC) under turning ch, Ch 5, Turn.

Row 3: DC under first ch 2, *Ch 5, work (DC, Ch 2, DC) under ch 2 between the next 2dc. Repeat from * across, working last (DC, Ch 2, DC) under turning ch. Ch 5, turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for pattern