CROCHET A GORGEOUS TOP WITH HOODIE

Hi there everyone, this is my latest creation. A crocheted top with a hoodie. Part 1 and Part 2

Thanks for watching and creating.

                                                                       PART 1

PART 2

CROCHETING ONTO A JACKET

THIS IS A FAIRLY EASY WAY TO CROCHET ONTO A JACKET

KNITTED CABLED KIMONO

Here we have a knitted kimono and the pattern is on the video.

To make a different size you would:

The stitch pattern consists of 15 stitches plus 3. 
The amount of stitches that you cast on is going to give you half the length of the kimono (how long you want it to be Remember you will double it as you are joining 2 rectangles).The part that wraps around the body is the easiest part as that is the length you keep knitting so you can wrap one of the rectangles around as you are knitting and see if the length you are knitting fits around and just stop when it is how you want it.  So you will need to measure the child or baby from the neck down to how far down the body you want it to go, halve that measurement as you are making 2 rectangles and then make sure the amount of stitches you cast on will fit into that measurement. So if the child measures from the neck down about 15 inches you will have that to about 7 or 8 inches, work a swatch and see how many cables fit into 7 or 8 inches and cast on that amount. So if 2 cables fit in there you would cast on 15 stitches x 2 plus 3 so cast on 33 stitches. If 3 cables then 15 x 3 plus 3 so 48 stitches. I hope this isn't too confusing. Let me know if you need any more help :)

CROCHETED JACKET PARTS 1-4

CROCHETED COLORFUL JACKET

 Remember that the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.

 Stitches used dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars sc = single crochet st = stitch ss = slip stitch sp = space ch = chain cnr = corner Beg ch3 = 1dc ch sp = chain space dc tog = double crochet together dtr = double treble = wrap yarn around your hook 3 times tr = treble = wrap yarn around your hook 2 times hdc = half a double crochet

  I am using Simply Soft Caron Yarn with a size 5:00mm crochet hook. For my size jacket I used 1 Skein in black, 1 in yellow, 1 in pink and 1 in blue and about 3-4 in white.

 We are making 49 motifs plus an extra 2 (one each for the shoulder) and another 4 to fill in at the bottom of jacket. So we have a total of 55 motifs. I am only making 1 size here which would be a medium to a large. If you want a larger size you can use a bigger crochet hook with thicker yarn or for a smaller size use thinner.

  PATTERN

making our flower Only the 1st flower gets done totally, all the rest are joined as you go.

 1. Ch6, ss into the 1st ch to form a ring

 2. Ch3 (stands as 1st dc). 19 dc in the ring = 20dc all together, ss into the top of the 3ch and change your yarn color.

 3. *Ch 11, skip the 1st ch and do 1sc in the next ch (which is the 2nd ch from the hook) 1hdc in the next ch, 1dc, 1dc , 1Tr, 1Tr, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc, 1sc (1 in each of the 11ch) ss into your next stitch (on the black portion) and go into the back loop, and 1ss into the next, back loop * repeat this all the way around. Your slip stitches are done in the back loop. To finish the round, ss into the beg stitch and change colors. You should have 10 petals all together

 4. Restart on any petal and count 4 stitches up from bottom of petal and ss into the 4th stitch, 1sc in each of the next 6 stitches, 3sc in the top st (all 3 in the same st), 1sc in each of the next 7 stitches, 1sc into the 4th st from the bottom of the opp petal *1sc in each of the next 6 st, 3sc in the top st, 1sc down in each of the next 7 st, cross over to next petal and 1sc in the 4th st from the bottom of new petal* Repeat this for all 10 petals and end off with a ss into the 1st petals ss

 JOINING YOUR MOTIFS

 Looking at your chart, you can see the layout of the joining.
Start by joining a row straight down so you only join 2 petals on each motif first.
 You work the white the same way as your first motif but you have to remember to join.

 5. You will join two petals from the one flower onto the two petals from the other flower. In between them you have to have 3 petals. So you join 2, skip 3 and then join the other 2 leaving you with 3 petals. So in between your 2 petals you have 3 petals. To join you will go up 7sc to the top and then you have to make 1sc in the top of the opp petal, then come back to 1st flower and do 2sc in the top, then do 1sc in the opp petal (coming from under the stitch)

PART 2 

 JOINING OUR MOTIFS

 Look at your motif picture and join the motifs accordingly

 6. Joining a motif onto 2 motifs 

 7. Different strategy to joining

 8. Another strategy to joining - you join in a pattern of 2 2 1 all the time or 1 2 2 or 2 1 2 it is all the same thing of 2 2 1 just depends on where you start in that sequence. You also have to have 3 petals in between the 2 joined on either side.   

 PART 3

9. Watch the beg of Part 2 to see the layout of the motifs to form your jacket.

 10. Turning fronts over and attaching motif

 11. Working on Left Hand Side (when jacket is on) 

 12. Look on your chart to see the back middle motif petal joins. There are 2 joins here, one for each of the 2 petals.

 13. Here you are adding the extra motif by the shoulder on the LHS and the RHS, watch video for the placement of these motifs. 

 14. RHS extra motif added by shoulder 

 15. Showing you how to join shoulder flower MAKING OUR SLEEVE BORDER

 16. Ch3, 1dc in each stitch, (skip the middle stitch in between your petals)

 17. Over the top of the petal do 3dc in the middle stitch, 1more dc and then cross over to the next petal and do 1dc 3dc in next st and 1 more dc and, do the same for the next petal, then keep doing 1dc in each stitch to beg and ss into 3rd ch 

 18. Ch3, turn your work and skip 2dc and ss into the 3rd dc, turn your work, 1dc into the next st, *1dc in each dc* repeat this until you get to the petals again. (don't go over them)

 19. Once you reach the petals skip 2 dc (that go up the petal) and ss into the next st, Ch3, skip 2 (up petal) and ss into the 3rd st, turn your work around and 1dc in the 1st st and 1dc in each dc until you reach the petals again, then you skip 2 (up petal) ss into the 3rd, ch3, skip 2 (up petal) ss into the 4rd, turn your work around, 1dc in the next and each of the next dc until you reach the petals again.

 20. Once again you will skip 2 (up petal) and ss into the 3rd (or into the 2nd), Turn (don't ch3 here) and do 1dc to the petals again. Do the same thing, skip 2dc up petal and ss into 2nd or 3rd one.

 21. Make sure Right side of work is facing you, ch3, 1dc in next, skip 1dc, *1dc in next 2dc, skip 1dc* repeat this all the way around till you get to the ch3 and ss into the top of the ch3,

 22. Ch3, 2dc in same place, ss into next st, skip 1 stitch, *3dc in next st, ss in the next, skip 1st* repeat

PART 4

23. Adding the motifs to the bottom of the jacket.

24. Crocheting in between motifs. We are only filling in the big gaps, not the small ones.

25.  Start with any in between part and watch video to see where to start. There is no set pattern here. I am just going fairly free form for this.

Ch3, skip 1, 1dc in the next, you are doing this all the way around, 1dc, skip 1 but in between your petals you will make a Treble. Go all the way around and ss into beg ch3 or into the sp

26. Ch3, 1dc in each of the dc, except for in between the petals, you will skip one of those spaces and where the 2 petals meet, you will skip one of those (watch video) go all the way around and ss into beg 

27. Ch1, 1sc in each of the stitches all the way around, ss into beg

28.  Ch1, skip 1, 1sc *skip 1, 1sc* all the way around, ss into beg. End off

29. STARTING OUR BORDER ALL THE WAY AROUND

With the right side facing you, we are starting at the bottom of the jacket and going up towards the shoulders and neck, 

30. FIRST ROW:  Ch6, This stands for 1dc and ch3, Watch video for place to insert hook. You will be doing either a dc or a treble with 3ch in between. Watch video to see where to do which one 

31.  SHOWING THE PATTERN WITH THE DC AND TREBLE for row 1.

32. Once you have finished row 1, ss into the 1st ch sp, CH3, 1dc in the 1st ch sp, ch3,  by your petals you will do 3dc tog in the next 3 ch spaces, ch3, 1dc in the next ch sp, Ch3, 3dc tog in the next 3ch sp (by the petals), ch3, 1dc, ch3, 3dc tog in the next 3ch sp, ch3, continue this pattern, where you have the 3ch sp in between the petals do them together, ch3, and then 1dc, ch3 where you don't have 3 together, all the way around.

33.  2ND ROW: 4dc in each ch space all the way around, ss into 1st st,

34.  Ch3, 1dc in each of the 4dc that you made (giving you 3dc) and skipping the stitch in between the group of 4dc all the way around

35. 1dc in each of the dc all the way around.

36.  Ch4, 1Tr in the next st, picot (ch3, 1sc in 1st ch), 2Tr Tog in the next 2 stitches, with a picot on top (see video at number 35, All the way around.

37. CROCHETING SOME OF THE OTHER HOLES BY THE SLEEVES TOGETHER

YOU HAVE COMPLETED YOUR JACKET.

Tunisian Lacy Crochet Top Part 1 and Part 2

TUNISIAN TOP

Abbreviations – yo = yarn over,  sk = skip, lps = loops,  * * repeat between the asterix

Treble = wrap yarn around hook 2 times, go into stitch and bring up a loop, go through 2 loops, go through 2 loops, go through 2 loops

TKS =Tunisian Knit Stitch = sk 1^st vertical bar, insert hook from front to back, between front and back vertical bars of same stitch, yo, pull lp through, hold all lps on hook.

Tunisian Treble Stitch (TTRS) = yo twice, insert hook as for TKS or as indicated, yo, pull lp through, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) twice.

Tunisian Double Stitch (TDS) = yo, insert hook as for TKS or as indicated, yo, pull lp through, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook.

PART 1

I am using a size 6mm/J afghan hook.

I am using Artiste Crochet Cotton and it is a Number 8

REMEMBER – the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern

SIZING

My wrap measures 62inch long and 12 inches wide. If you want a bigger shrug you will need to add more stitches on and then you will need to make yours longer as well.  If you add about an inch to the width then add about 4 inches to your length.

1.  You need to have stitches in a multitude of 15 plus 3stitches, a minimum of 33 chs)

      I used 90 plus 3 stitches so I chained 93 stitches

2. Holding all lps on hook, yo twice, insert hook into the 3^rd ch from the hook, yo, pull lp through (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) twice,

     *Skip the next 4ch on the hook, (yo, insert hook in next ch, yo, pull lp through, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 5 times, sk next 4 chs,

**yo twice, insert hook in next ch, yo, pull loop through, (yo,pull through 2 lps on hook) twice, rep from ** once, rep from * across.

2a. taking the stitches off the hook – Ch1, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) twice

       *(ch1, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 4 times, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 3 times, rep * across to last 7 lps on hook, (ch 1, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 4 times, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) twice

3.  Ch2 , sk 1^st vertical bar, TTRS in next vertical bar.

     *5 TDS in 3^rd st of next 5-TDS group. TTRS in each of the next 2 TRRS, rep from * across

3a. taking stitches off the hook – Ch1, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) twice, *(ch1, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook (4 times), (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 3 times, rep from * across to last 7 lps on hook, (ch1, yo pull through 2 lps on hook) 4 times, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) twice.

REPEAT ROW 3 and 3a for pattern

4. showing you the stitch again

5.  You can do as many rows as you like in different colors. I made mine in uneven rows. My black row was either 1 or 2 row and my pink and blue ranged from 8 – 14 rows each. So make yours the way you want to and keep going up straight until yours measures about 62 inches long.

Showing stitch and changing colors              PART 2

6.  length about 60 – 62 inches

7. BORDER AROUND

8.  Once you are finished with the length you don’t end your work but your next row will start the border all the way around. So you will

Ch3, 1 Treble in the next stitch, *1dc in each of the next 5 stitches, 1 treble into the next stitch, 1 treble into the next stitch,* repeat between the stars to the end of this row (finishing with your 2 trebles)

9. Going down the first side,

Ch2, 2 dc in the 1^st space, now you want to do double crochet all the way down the side, I have no set amount, just make sure that they are making your work lie flat and not pulling or scrunching your work with too many of them – watch video .

10. Showing a bit of a pattern with the double crochets

11. Across the other bottom, Ch 2, 1dc in each of the “treble stitches”, and 1tr in each of the next 5 stitches (we are doing the opposite to the other side across)

12. Coming up the 2^nd side, same as number 9

13. Showing you how to assemble your wrap

14.  Starting our Border

Make a slip knot and slip stitch into the v on both sides, Ch3 and 1dc into each of the next spaces, all the way around

15. Ss into the 3^rd chain, 1dc into each space all the way around, ss into the 3^rd ch

16. Ch6, sc into the 3^rd ch (making a picot), *1dc in your next sp with ch3 and sc into the 3^rd ch (picot) in the same stitch* repeat all the way around

How to Crochet a Granny Square Jacket

GRANNY SQUARE JACKET


Caron Simply Soft Yarn
Hook 5:00mm


dc = double crochet      *  *  rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet        st = stitch
ss = slip stitch               sp = space
ch = chain                      cnr = corner

Remember that the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.

The Granny Square you are using is on my YouTube and the link is in the info box.
Below is the Pattern for the square.

FLOWER GRANNY SQUARE
Caron Simply Soft
Hook 5:00mm
Size about 5 inches
Chain = ch, Stitch = st, Double Crochet = dc, Single Crochet = sc, Chain Space = ch sp, Space = sp, Slip Stitch = st, Treble = tr,
4Tr cluster = Yarn over twice, hook into stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, (yarn over and draw through 2 loops) twice, do this for 4 trebles and at end yarn over and draw through all the loops (5) on hook
1. Ch 7, ss in first ch to form a ring

2. 2ch, 11sc in ring (=12sc), ss into 2nd ch from beg 2 ch

3. Ch5, dc in next st, *Ch3, dc in next st* repeat in between stars till 12dc, ss into 3rd ch, ss into space

4. Ch 4, 3 treble clusters in same sp (do cluster this beg one the ch 4 stands as the first tr and you have 4 loops on hook), ch 5
4 tr cluster in same sp, ch 5 all around till 12 clusters, ss in top of cluster

5. Change color and ss into space, 6sc in each space

6. 3ch, 2dc, 3ch, 3dc all in same space (Corner made), *skip next st, 1dc in next, skip next, 1dc in next, till you have made 8dc, make a corner in next stitch (3dc 3ch, 3dc)* , repeat stars till 4 corners made and 8 dc take you to the end.( You have 3 spaces where you made the 6sc(row 5) where you are making the 8dc over these 3 and then you make your corner)
 (In other words You are making a cnr above the first petal, then you make 8dc over 2 more petals and above the 4th petal you make another cnr, then you make another 8 dc over the next 2 petals and above the 7th petal you make another cnr, make another 8dc over another 2 petals and above the 10th petal you make another corner and then make another 8dc till you get to the beginning cnr and you ss to the beg ch3)

MAKING THE JACKET
1.  Depending on what size jacket you make and how many rows of squares you make will depend on how many squares you will need. For the jacket that I made I used 110 squares.

The small is using 2 for the left front, 2 for the right front and 4 for the back, so that is a strip of 8 motifs and you can make it however long you want your jacket (I went up 6 strips)

The medium (the one shown on the video) uses 2.5 for the front left, and 2.5 for the front right and the back used 4 plus the 2 halves left from the 2 front motifs. So that makes a strip of 10 motifs and I made 6 strips of 10 for my length.

The large is using 3 for the left front and 3 for the right front and 6 for the back so that is a strip of 12 and also going up 6 or longer

You can measure your square and multiply it by however many you make in a strip so if it is a 5 inch square and you are making the smaller jacket you would say 8 squares multiplie by 5 inches and that would give you 40 inches around your body. Measure over your hips and see how it will fit, remember you want it bigger as you don't want it to fit tight like a skirt, you will want some space for it to flow

Make sure your sleeve border has the same amount of stitches as each other and do the same thing as you do for the centre front.

2.  Placing your sleeves

3.  Medium sleeve - showing you how to sew the triangle part on

4.  Other 2 sizes triangle

5. Neck Border - start with the right side of your work facing you and ch 3, 1dc in each stitch so that your work lies flat. At the first join - you sc 3 together, 1dc in each of the next stitches, next join, you sc 2 together, 1dc in each of the next stitches, and do the same thing going back down the neck, go all the way around your jacket with dc

6. 2nd round, 1 dc in each and where you decreased you decrease again, both times only 2sc together, go all the way around jacket again

7. Sewing part of the neck

8. Do as many rows all the way around your jacket of dc, as you want, and very last row = Ch3, *3dc in next st, ss, in the next 3 stitches* repeat this all the way around, except do 4dc instead of ch3 and 3dc

How to Crochet a Poncho

Hi there

This is a really cute poncho which is made out of squares and is pretty easy to assemble. I hope you have fun making it! You can crochet it together as you go or you can sew it together.

Remember that the numbers here correspond to the numbers on the video!
PART 1

SCHEMATIC - these section is at about 15 minutes at number 11 on Part 2

This is the schematic to the poncho. Where the dotted lines are, that is where it will be folded over.
The numbers I will be numbering down below (1-7) and explaining are the ones circled on this schematic.
1. Make a strip of 10 together
2. Attach another 10 motifs (one at a time) to the first strip
3. Attach another 10 like row 2 to the next strip
4. On either end attach 3 motifs
5. Attach another 3 motifs
6. Attach another 3 motifs
7. Flip row 1 over so it is in half (5 motifs either side). These 3 motifs are done while attaching to row 6 and to the top portion of the halved section

One Square measures about 6.5 inches.

GRANNY SQUARE PONCHO

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 

Ch = chain,  * * =repeat work in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch

Treble Crochet = yarn over 2 times, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull up 2 loops) 3 times = tr

Double Treble Crochet =  yo (yarn over) 3 times, insert hook into the desired st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through two loops) 4 times. = dtr

1tr, 1dtr, 1tr together = watch video at number 7

Dc 2 tog = yo, hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops (2 loops left), yo, hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops and then through all the rest.

2sc tog, Go into the stitch, bring up a loop, go into next stitch, bring up a loop and go through all the stitches on the hook

I used I Love this Yarn, super soft. Neon colors, yellow and pink. It is acrylic and a 4 medium. I used a size 5.00mm/H crochet hook. You will need about 3-4 skeins of the pink and about 3 of the yellow.

 You need to make 42 squares all together

Join a strip of 10 motifs together first and then you will join the others.

1.  Ch5, ss into 1^st ch to form a circle

2.  Ch4 (stands as your 1^st dc), *dc, ch1* = 8dc including the ch4, ss into 3^rd ch,

3. Ch4, 3dc in the 1^st space, ch1, *3dc, ch1 in the next sp* rep in the next spaces and in the last space you only do 2dc as the ch4 from the beginning ch stands as 1dc = 8 (3dc) clusters, ss to top of ch4

4.  Ch5, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, all in the 1^st space, *1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc In the next ch sp (skip over the 3dc)* rep to end, ss into 3^rd ch. Cut off yarn.

5.  Start with new color and sc in between the last 2dc off any of the “4dc cluster”

Ch2, 2dc tog in the next 2 spaces (the middle space and the 1^st space of the 4dc), ch3, sc into next space, ch3, *3dc tog into next sp, ch3, sc in next sp, ch3* rep to the end and ss into the top of the 3dc tog.

6. Ch5, 1dc, ch2, 1dc, ch2, 1dc, ch2, 1dc, in the same space (you need 5dc with 2ch in between them, no ch after 5^th dc though) *1dc, ch2, 1dc, ch2, 1dc, ch2, 1dc, ch2, 1dc all in the stitch above the 3dc tog* rep around (skip all the other stitches), ss into 3^rd ch of the ch5. End yarn

7.  Start new color and start in between the last 2dc of the 5dc

Ch3, 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next st, together (so don’t finish the stitch – watch video), ch6, sc in next sp, ch1 sc in the next sp, ch2, 3dc tog over the next 3 stitches, ch2, 1sc in next st, ch1, 1sc in next sp, ch6, *1tr, 1dt, 1tr together over the next 3 spaces, ch6, 1sc in next sp, ch1, 1sc in next st, ch2, 3dc tog over the next 3 spaces, ch2, 1sc in next sp, ch1, 1sc in next sp, ch6* repeat this to end, ss into the top of the 3tr

8. Ch5, 2dc in the same space, ch3, sc in next ch6 sp, ch3, 1dc in the ch1 sp, ch3, 1sc above the 3dc tog, ch3, 1dc in the ch1 sp, ch3, 1sc in the ch6 sp, *2dc 2ch, 2dc in the stitch above the trebles tog, ch3, sc in the ch6 sp, ch3, 1dc in the 1ch sp, ch3, 1sc above the 3dc tog, ch3, 1dc in the ch1 sp, ch3, 1sc in the ch 6 sp, ch3* repeat to end and 1dc next to the beg ch5 and ss into 3^rd ch of the ch5

PART 2

JOINING MOTIFS

You will join a strip of 10 together first and then join the other strip of 10 onto that strip and another set of 10 onto that strip so that you have 3 strips of 10 joined together. 

Then you will add 3 rows of 3 onto the one side of the strip of 10 leaving you with 3 motifs which we will join to the 3 rows of 3

9.  I am showing you how to join the very first square to another one.

 You join in a corner and do 2dc, ch1, 1sc in the opp motifs corner,

 1ch, 2dc in the 1^st motifs corner, ch1, 1sc in opp motif,

 ch1, 1sc in 1^st motif, ch1, 1sc in opp motif,

 ch1, 1dc in the 1^st motif, ch1, 1sc in opp motif,

 ch1, 1sc in 1^st motif, ch1, 1sc in opp motif,

 ch1, 1dc in 1^st motif, ch1, 1sc in opp motif,

 ch1, 1sc in 1^st motif, ch1, 1sc in opp motif (you should be in the space next to the corner)

ch1, 2dc in the 1^st motif corner, ch1, 1sc in opp motif (in the space between the sets of dc)

ch1, 2dc in 1^st motif corner (finishing that corner),

ch3, and finish your square as you normally do (no 8)

10. Joining more than 1 side, and 2 out of 3 corners

11. Showing you how to assemble your poncho

12. How to join the last 3 motifs

13.  BORDER

 Start anywhere on the edge of poncho only on the outside not by the neckline.

*Ch 24, sc into the bottom of the ch 24, 1sc into the next stitch* repeat to the end

14. Neck Edge Border. Make sure your poncho is the way I am wearing it on the introduction with one square at the bottom and it forms a triangle. That is the way the neck border is being done.

Start anywhere and ch3, 1 dc in every space. Place markers where you are making your v for the neck

15. First row ch3, 1 dc in each space on the squares.

      2^nd row, 1 dc in each space. Place a piece of yarn by the V on either side so you know where to decrease.

16. On rows 3, 4 and 5 you (changing color on the 4^th row) decrease.

17. Showing you on row 6, how to decrease

18. Do another 2 more rows in yellow with the decreases

19. ss into 1^st stitch, ch1 ,2 sc tog in the next 2 stitches, 1 sc around to where you did your other decreases and decrease x2 in the middle section and one more time at the end

20. ss into 1^st stitch, ch1, do the same as above 19

21. Do another row as above 19 ( this would be row 11 if you counted from beginning of border)

22. Ch3, skip 1 stitch, sc into the next stitch, ch3 and then go backwards and do a sc into the stitch that you had missed. *ch 3, skip 1 stitch, 1sc into the next stitch, ch3, 1sc into the missed stitch (backwards)* rep to end.

Finished!

HOW TO CROCHET A JACKET WITH WHITE MOTIFS PART 1

Hi there,

This jacket I designed with hexagons and is actually really easy. You can make the hexagon smaller or larger, by adding a row or two or less, or you need to use a smaller hook and yarn. But we all use the same amount of motifs.

Remember to get the best results you need to work with the video and the written pattern

HOW TO CROCHET A JACKET WITH WHITE MOTIFS

PART 1

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 

Ch = chain,  * * =repeat work in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch, hdc = half a double crochet

Dc 3 tog  = yo, hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops (2 loops left), yo, hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops, yo hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops and through all st

You will need to make 30 whole motifs and 6 half motifs for the jacket.

Simply Soft Caron in white, using a size 5mm hook, you will need about 8 skeins.

Large Motif

1.   Start with a slip knot and ch3, 12hdc in the first chain, ss into 1^st st

2.  ch3 (stands as 1^st dc), 2dc tog in the same sp, ch3, *3dc tog in next sc, ch3* rep to end, ending with ch3 and ss into the middle of the 3dc together you had started with (12 clusters)

3. * 4sc in the next ch sp*, rep all the way around, ss into the 1^st sc

4. * 12ch, 1dc into the 4^th ch from the hook , 1dc into the next 8dc = 9dc, sc into the sc in the  middle of the next dc cluster* rep to end (12 petals)

5.  ss into the 1^st 3stitches of your 1^st petal, 1sc into the next 6sc, 5sc into the ch sp at the top of the petal, 6sc down the petal, * 1sc into the 4^th sc from the bottom, of the next petal and 1sc into the next 5sc (giving you 6 all together going up your petal)*, to end and ss into 4^th stitch from bottom of the first petal you did.

6.  ch 12, sc into the middle of the 1^st petal, *ch5, treble by wrapping yarn around the hook 5 times( and going through 2 loops at a time) and into the middle of the two petals, ch5 and sc into the top of the next petal* repeat to the end and sc into the 5^th ch of the 11 ch.

7.  TALKING ABOUT THE DIFFERENT SIZE MOTIFS

8.  Ss into the 1^st ch space. *ch6, sc into next ch sp* repeat to end, ending with ch6 and sc into the very 1^st ch sp you made = 24 ch spaces

9.  BORDER (if doing the larger size you might need to do extra dc – watch video at numer 9)

    * Ch 3 (stands as 1^st dc), 2dc, ch 3, 3dc all in the same space = Corner, 3dc in the next ch sp, 3dc in the next ch sp, 3dc in the next ch sp* repeat from * to * except the very first ch3 must be a dc. End with a ss to beg ch3

MAKING HALF A MOTIF

10.  Ch2, 6hdc in the 1^st ch, ss into the 1^st st

11.  Ch3 (stands as 1^st dc), 2dc tog in same sp, *ch3, 3dc tog in next space* (6 all tog),

12.  Do the 7^th, 3dc tog in the last space = 7 clusters,

       Turn your work around, ch1 * 4sc into the next ch sp* and into each ch sp = 6 ch spaces

13.  Turn your work around, ch12, skip 3 and 1dc into the 4^th from the hook, 1dc in the next 8,

       *sc above the cluster, ch12, 1dc into 4^th from the hook, 1dc in the next 8* go around = 6 petals

14.  Turn your work and ss up 3 stitches, *1sc in the next 6 stitches, 5sc in the ch sp at the top of petal and 6sc down, sc into the 4^th stitch from the bottom of opposite petal* do this till end of petals and finish.

15.  Restart at the top of your petal and ch5, sc in same petal, ch 5, sc on top of same petal, *ch5, treble with 5 times wrapped around hook into stitch at bottom of both petals, ch 5 sc into next petal* do until the last petal and instead of sc into middle of petal sc into the side, ch5 and sc into the same petal (you must have 13 ch spaces)

16.  Ch6, turn your work around, sc into the 1^st ch sp, *Ch6, sc into next ch sp* to last ch sp (13 ch sp)

17.  Ch3, turn work around 3dc in same ch sp, ch3, 3dc in same sp, *3dc in next ch sp, 3dc in next ch sp, 3dc in next ch sp and then a corner*, rep to end and do 3dc and ch 3 and sc into same sp

18.  Sc across bottom evenly and finish off.

PART 2

PUTTING YOUR JACKET TOGETHER

1.  Make 1 strip of 6 motifs sewn tog (for the front and back)

2.    Make 1 strip of 6 motifs sewn tog (for the front and back)

3.   Make 1 strip of 5 with a half a motif on either side(for the front and back)

    Make 1 strips of 3 motifs (for the back)

    Make 1 strip of 3 motifs (for the sleeve, folded over)

    Make 1 strip of 3 motifs (for the sleeve, folded over)

    Sew 1 full motif and one half a motif  (used for the left front)

    Sew 1 full motif and one half a motif   (used for the right front)

    Sew 1 full motif and one half a motif  (used for the bottom of the left sleeve, folded over)

    Sew 1 full motif and one half  motif  (used for the bottom of the right sleeve, folded over)

This will equal 30 full motifs and 6 half motifs

Now sew the 6 and 5(with 2 halves on edges) and 6 together, with the 5 (and 2 halves) in the middle of the 2, 6 motif strips – you have 3 equal rows. (When you fold it over by the 2 end pieces and bring 1.5 motif to the front, it makes a front and a back, and the back will have 3 motifs.

4.  Sew the 1 strip of 3(used for the back) in the middle of the strip of 6 so the strip of 6 would have 1 and a half a motif left on either side

5.  Sew the 1 full and half a motif onto the one side of the strip of 3 (for the back) and the other 1 full and a half a motif onto the other side but only join them half way (sew the top half) as the 1.5 motif will be flipping up to meet the 3 motif strip for the sleeve.

6.  Showing you how to turn the front over

7.  Sew the fronts 1 and a half motif onto the front on both sides (the one and a half go on top of half of the back 3 motif strip you sewed on).

8.  Sew the other strip of 3 onto the back (start where the front half a motif is and flip the top over to the front) it is used for the back and the front. Do the same for the other side.

9.  General overview

10. MAKING THE BORDER

Make sure you are working on the right side of your work

SLEEVE BORDER

11.  Start with a slip knot and start anywhere on your sleeve with ch3, 1dc in almost every stitch, use your initiative, you don’t want your sleeve to be pulled in too much and you don’t want too many stitches so it is too loose. I did 57dc on my sleeve. Keep going around the sleeve till you get to where you started and Ss into 1^st ch.

Make sure both sleeves have the same amount of stitches, so count the first one and remember to do the same amount on the other sleeve.

12.  Ch3, 1dc in next stitch, *1dc in next st, 1dc in next st, Skip one dc* repeat this to the end, ss into the ch3

13.  Ch1, reverse sc around an end off

BORDER AROUND FRONT AND BACK

14. Start at the bottom of the one side and work your way around by ss into a spot, ch3 (for 1^st dc)For this round you are going to do 1dc 4 times and then skip one stitch, all the way around. So instead of 1dc in each stitch every 4^th one you will skip.

15.  Ch3 for 1^st dc, *1dc in each dc *all the way around, increasing a few dc in your corners where needed.

16. Same as row 15

17. Do as many rows as you need.  Last row you will do reverse sc .

How To Crochet a Motif Sweater

Hi there,

I have made this Sweater/Jersey using a whole bunch of the same motif. Below is a Schematic of the whole sweater laying flat, to give you an idea of how the motifs lie together to form the sweater.

PINK MOTIF SWEATER

Red Heart Shimmer pink 4 balls, 2 white, 2 black -  depending on size

Crochet hook 3.75mm (I used a smaller hook as I wanted my motif slightly smaller an my work to be tighter. If you want motif bigger use a bigger hook and yarn and opp for smaller.

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 

Ch = chain,  * * =repeat work in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch

3 Treble Together = *Wrap yarn around hook x2, insert hook into st (read pattern for either same st or into the next st), yarn over, bring a loop thru, yarn over, thru 2 loops, thru 2, leave rest on hook*, repeat till 3 trebles done, yarn over and thru all remaining loops.

Small (large) will be shown like this

HOW MANY MOTIFS made all together(48 for the small and 72 for the large - according to the chart, if you make the sleeves longer like mine and the length longer you will use more.

PATTERN

1.Make a magic circle with 16 dc in it, or ch4 and do 15dc in the 1^st ch (the 3ch would stand as 1^st dc), ss into the 1^st space

2. Ch5 (which stands for 1dc, ch2), 1dc in the same space, ch2, *1dc in the next space,  ch2 * repeat in each ch sp to end, ending with ch2, ss into 3^rd ch  (16dc all together)

3. Ss into the 1^st ch sp, ch 4, 2 tr tog (makes 3 tr tog) in the same sp, 4ch, *3Tr Tog, 4 ch in the next sp* to end, ch4 and ss into the top of the 3tr tog (16 clusters), Sc into the 1^st ch sp with new color *white)

4. 4sc in each ch sp all the way around, sc into 1^st sc , with new color and for the 1^st motif only you will do a complete round in your black without joining, after that you will be joining your motifs

5. 1^st motif only =* 6ch, sc in the stitch above the tr* all the way around (16 ch sp) ss into 1^st st

JOINING OUR MOTIFS

We will join a row of motifs together one underneath each other. 8(9) motifs one under each other.

Remember you are working with either 4 loops or 2 loops

6. To join, you ch3, sc in opp motifs ch sp, ch3 and sc in the 1^st motif, do this with 4 loops and then finish your motif by ch6 sc in the 1^st motif  THIS YOU ONLY DO FOR YOUR 1^st 2 Motifs joined together

7. For the long strip you start with you will join 8 (9) motifs.

  FOR THE REST OF THE MOTIFS in the strip - Make sure you join them in the right place Opposite the other 4 joined with 4 loops on either side.

KEEP LOOKING AT YOUR SCHEMATIC DRAWING TO HELP SEE WHERE TO PLACE MOTIFS.

The small sweater needs to watch everything to know what to do. I have one piece that is just for the small but all the rest shows you how to join and do the neck whether large or small

PART 2 – remember your front and back are all done in one piece. You make one long strip of 8(9) motifs first and then you start joining the others

8. Joining the First Middle one

9. Joining the longer bottom one

10. Joining 3 together

11. If you look at the schematic. The large has 9 motifs joined tog lengthwise and then 10 motifs and then 5 and 5 and then 10 and 9 motifs

The Small has 8 motifs lengthwise, 4 and 4 and 8 again UNLESS you are making yours longer.

12. Small only

13. Large only

14.  Joining the longest motif in middle row – you do the 4(5) motifs on the one side, turn your work around and do the other 4(5) on the other side leaving the space in the middle for your neck

15. Recap of joining 3 motifs

16. A few mistakes that can be made

17. Joining 4^th row (row after the middle row – middle only has 4(5) going up and a space and then from the other side you do the other 4(5) and this row you have 8(10) motifs

18. A mistake I made and how to fix it!

19. How to do the straight row of motifs, going past  the 4(5) you did for the neck

20. Very Important part here – joining the straight row of motifs by the neck

21. Quick look at the small and finishing the body for both sizes

Part 3

SLEEVES

1. Showing you how to put the motifs together for the sleeves for the Small

2. Showing you how to put the motifs together for the sleeves for the Large

3. Small and Large how to join the motifs for sleeve. We are doing the sleeve flat and then folding the top in half and sewing the sides together

4. Folding Sweater in half

5. Sewing the sides and you would sew the sleeves the same way

6. Adding on extra motifs to the sleeve, if you need more (it is done in the round and not flat

7. Adding extra motifs on the bottom of your sweater

8. Quick Tips  - WHEN YOU ADD extra motifs on the bottom of sweater REMEMBER to crochet the 2 sides (Front and Back) together else you have to sew them together at the end

9. Neck Border

10. Sleeve Border

You can make either the sleeve border or the neck border for the bottom of your sweater.

How to Crochet a Sleeveless Jacket Part 3

 Hi there everyone,

This is the last part of the Sleeveless Jacket Series.  I hope that you have enjoyed these videos and have managed to create your own jacket!

Remember it is best to work with the written instructions and the video together.

Here are the instructions and the video is below:

Armhole Edging

Pick up less stitches than more all around the armhole.  Crochet with your work on the right side.

Start under the armhole in the middle and pick up stitches.  Remember how many stitches you picked up on the one side so you can do the same on the other side.

My total for the armhole was 88 stitches, 44 on each side.

Once you have your total amount on slip stitch into the 1^st stitch.

1.    Ch5, skip one stitch and dc in next stitch,* ch2, skip a stitch, dc in next st* to end, ch2  and ss into 3^rd ch

2.    Ch5, Decrease (dc behind the post of the 1^st dc, but don’t complete the dc, dc around the post of the next dc, do half of your dc and then go thru all the loops left on the hook), Then* ch2, dc behind the post of the next dc*, keep doing between the stars to the last 2 dc and Decrease those two like you did in the beginning, ch 2 and ss into 3^rd chain.

3.    Ch5, Decrease 1^st two posts,* ch2, dc behind the post of next dc* to the last 2 posts, decrease those 2, ch2 and ss into the 3^rd ch.

FRONT – pick up an even number of stitches

Pick up your stitches like you did for the armhole, less is better.  I did 106 on the one side, 36 across the neck and 106 on the other side. Pick them up with your work facing you.

1.    Ch5, *skip a stitch, dc in next stitch, ch 2* do to end, end with dc, Turn

2.  ch5, skip a stitch dc behind the post, *ch2, skip a stitch, dc behind the post* repeat to the ch5 and do a dc in the 3^rd ch, Turn

3. Ch3, sc in first ch sp, ch3, sc in same sp, ch3, sc in same sp,

     Sc in next ch sp

    * Sc in next ch sp, ch3, sc in same ch sp, ch3, sc in same ch sp, ch3, sc in same sp* repeat to end

Bottom edging of your garment

Ch1 to start your work

Shell stitch

1sc, 1hdc, 1dc, 2Tr, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc all in the same space

Do this stitch in each ch space

Sew in yarn threads and Congratulations you are done!

Well, I hope that you have enjoyed these videos and have created a beautiful garment!  Please join me in my next video.

Bye