KNIT FLOWER BEANIE IN THE ROUND

THIS KNITTED PATTERN IS FOR SALE ON RAVELRY.COM AT   https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/flower-beanie-6

KNITTED FAIR ISLE BEANIE

Hi there, here is a cute knitted fair isle beanie I created :)

THIS IS PART 1
and PART 2             The Pattern is on the video

Knitted Cable Beanie

KNITTED CABLE BEANIE

THIS PATTERN IS FOR SALE AT RAVELRY  AT

 Ravelry at http://www.ravelry.com/people/gillyscraftworld

CROCHET A HAT IN COTTON

CROCHET A HAT IN COTTON

Remember that the numbers on the pattern correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.
I am using a size 3.75mm crochet hook (F) and Aunt Lydia's crochet thread which is a size 3 cotton.


dc = double crochet      *  *  rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet        st = stitch
ss = slip stitch               sp = space
ch = chain                      cnr = corner
Beg ch3 = 1dc                       picot = ch3, 1sc into the 1st ch
dc tog = double crochet together                      Tr = treble

PATTERN

1.  Ch4, ss into the 1st ch to form a ring.

2.  Ch3 (stands for 1st dc), 15dc in the circle (16dc all together), ss into the top of the beg ch3.

3.  Ch4, 1dc in the 1st dc, ch1, *1dc, ch1, in the next dc* Repeat this to the end ending with ch1 and ss into the 3rd ch. (I change colors here)

4.  Ch1, 1sc in the 1st ch, *Ch3, 1sc in the ch1 (from previous round))* repeat this around, ss into the 1st ch you had made. 16 ch spaces

5.  ch4, 1dc in the same st, 1sc in the ch sp, *1dc ch1 1dc in the next sc, 1sc in the ch sp* rep to end - 16 ch spaces, ss into the top of the ch3

6.  ch1, 1sc in the same stitch, ch5, 1sc in the ch1 sp (in between the 2dc), *ch5, 1sc in the ch1 sp* repeat to end ending with ch5 and ss into the 1st stitch.

7.  Ch4, 1dc in same sp, 1sc in the middle of the ch5, *1dc ch1  1dc in the next sc, 1sc in the mddle of the ch5* rep to end, ending with a sc and ss into the top of the ch3 with new color.

8.  Ch1, 1sc in the same place, ch5, 1sc in the ch1 sp, *ch5, 1sc in the ch1 sp* rep to end, ending with ch3 1dc in the 1st st (16 ch sp)

9.  Ch1, 1sc in the same sp, ch5, 1sc in the middle of the ch5, *ch5, 1sc in the middle of the ch5* rep to end ending with ch3 and 1 Tr into the 1st st

10.  Ch1, 1sc in the same sp, *9Tr in the ch sp, ch1, 1sc in the middle ch of the next ch sp, ch1* rep to end, ending with ch1, and ss into beg stitch (8 clusters)

11.  Ch3, 1 dc in each of the next 2, ch2, skip 1, 1sc in the next, ch2, skip 1, 1dc in each of the next 3dc, ch2,
*1dc in each of the next 3
ch2, skip 1, 1sc in the next, ch2, skip 1
1dc in each of the next 3, ch2*  rep to end, ending with ch2 and ss into the beg ch3,

12.  Same as row 11, (making your sc in the sc from previous round)

13.  Ch3, 1dc in each of the next 3dc, ch2, 1sc in the ch sp, ch4, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch2, 1dc in each of the next 3dc, ch2,
*1dc in each of the next 3dc,
 ch2, 1sc in the ch sp,
 ch4, 1sc in the next ch sp,
 ch2, 1dc in each of the next 3dc, ch2,* rep to end, ss into top of beg ch3,

14.  ch3, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch2, 1sc in the middle ch sp, ch2, 1dc in each of the next 3dc, ch2
*1dc in each of the next 3dc,
ch2, 1sc in the middle ch sp,
ch2, 1dc in each of the next 3dc, ch2* to the end, ss into the top of the ch3

15.  Ch3, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch2, 1sc in the sc, ch2, 1dc in each of the next 3dc, ch2
*1dc in each of the next 3dc,
ch2, 1sc in the sc,
ch2, 1dc in each of the next 3 dc, ch2* rep to end, ss into the ch3

16. Ch3, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, 1dc in each of the next 3dc, ch4,
*1dc in each of the next 3dc, 1dc in each of the next 3dc, ch4,* rep to end ss into the ch3

17.  Ch3, 2dc tog in the next 2dc, 2dc tog in the next 2dc, 1dc in the next dc, ch5, 1sc in the middle of the ch4 of prev round, ch5,
*1dc, 2dc tog in the next 2dc,
2dc tog in the next 2dc,
ch5, 1sc in the middle of the ch4,
ch5* rep to end, ss into the ch3  (16ch sp)

18.  Ch3, 2dc tog in the next 2dc, ch4, 1sc in the ch sp, ch4, 1sc in the ch sp, ch4
*3dc tog in the next 3dc,
ch4, 1sc in the ch sp,
ch4, 1sc in the ch sp,
ch4, * to the end, ss into the 3ch (24 ch sp) change color

19.  ss into the 1st ch sp,
ch4, 1sc in the ch of the ch sp, *ch3, 1sc in the ch of the ch sp* rep to end ending with ch3 and ss into the 1st st (24 ch sp)

20.  Ch1, 1sc in the same place, ch5, 1sc in the sc, *ch5, 1sc in the sc* rep to end, ending with ch5, ss into 1st stitch (24 ch p)

21.  Ch4, 1dc in the same place, 1sc in the middle of the ch of the ch sp, 1dc 1ch 1dc in the sc,
*1sc in the middle of the ch of the ch sp, 1dc ch1 1dc in the sc* rep to the end ending with your sc and then ss into the top of the ch3.

22.  ch1, 1sc in the same sp, ch5, 1sc in the ch1 sp, *ch5, 1sc in the ch1 sp* rep to end ss into 1st st,

23.  Ch4, 1dc in the same sp, 1sc in the middle of the ch of the ch sp,
*1dc ch1, 1dc in the sc, 1sc in the middle of the ch of the ch sp* rep to end ss into the ch3

24.  Ch1, reverse sc back

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Baby's Cotton Hat

BABY'S COTTON HAT

Aunt Lydia's cotton in a size 10, doubled and a size 2.75mm crochet hook

dc = double crochet      *  *  rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet        st = stitch
ss = slip stitch               sp = space
ch = chain                      cnr = corner
hdc = half a double crochet
tr = treble

Picot = ch3 and ss or sc into the 1st ch

REMEMBER - the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.
Remember we are doubling our yarn

1. Ch7, ss into the first stitch

2. Ch5 (stands as 1dc, 2ch),* 1dc in the next st, ch2* rep between stars until you have 8dc including the 1st ch 5, ss into the 3rd ch

3. Ch4, *2tr in the next ch, 2 tr in the next ch (so that is 4tr in the next ch sp), ch2* repeat in between stars all the way around (32tr all together), ss into the 4th ch

4. Ch4, 2tr in the next tr, 2tr in the next tr, 1tr in the last tr, ch5, *1tr in next st, 2tr in next st, 2tr in next st, 1tr in next st, ch5* repeat to end, ss into the 4th ch

5. Ch4, 5tr tog in the next 4tr, ch5, 3tr  in the middle ch of the next ch sp, ch5,  *6tr tog in the next 6 tr, ch5, 3tr in the middle ch of the next ch sp, ch5* repeat between the stars to the end, ending with 3ch, 1dc into the middle of the 6tr tog

6. ch7, *1sc in the middle of the ch 5, 2dc in the 1st tr, 2dc tog in the middle tr, 2dc in the next tr, 1sc in the middle of the ch5, ch7, * rep in the stars to the end, ending with a sc in the top of the dc you made

7.  ch6, 1sc in the middle of the ch7, *2tr tog in the next 2st (in the dc not in the sc), 3ch, 3tr tog (1 in the same place as the previous st, 1 in the next st and 1 in the next st), 3ch, 2tr tog in the prev stitch (the one you just worked in)  and the next st, 1sc into the middle of the ch7,* rep this, ending with a ss and new color

8. Ch5 (3 for our picot), ch2, 1sc into the 1st sc you had made on previous round, *ch2, 1 picot, ch2, 1sc above the 3tr, ch2, 1sc in the next tr, * repeat in the stars to end (you are doing the sc into each of those tr from previous round) ss into the 1st stitch - 24 picots

9.  Ch6, 1dc in the sc, 1 picot,* ch3, 1dc in the sc, ch3, 1picot, ch3, 1dc in the sc*, rep in the stars all the way around but instead of a dc in the sc at end ss into the 3rd ch of the beg 6 chain, 1 picot = 24 picot

10. Ch3, 1dc in the same space, 1 picot, ch3,* 1dc in the next space, 1 picot, ch3,* repeat this to the end - 24 picots, ss into the top of the 1st picot.

11. Change yarn if you are changing colors. Restart your work in the 1st ch sp,
Ch3 (stands for 1st dc) 1dc in the same sp, ch2, 2dc in the next ch sp, *2dc in the next ch sp, ch2* repeat to the end (24 sets of dc), end with ch2 and ss into the top of the ch3

12. Ch3, 1dc in the next dc, *1dc in each of the 2dc, ch2* repeat around ss into the top of the ch3

13. repeat row 12 until the length is as long as you want it. I did 4 rows

14.  ch3 as a picot, 1sc or 2sc in the next ch sp, 1sc in between the 2dc, *1 picot, 1sc or 2sc in next ch sp, 1sc in between the 2dc * repeat to the end - it is better to do 2sc not 1sc go to the end and ss into the 1st st

HOW TO CROCHET A VINTAGE STYLE HAT

VINTAGE STYLE MOTIF HAT

dc = double crochet      *  *  rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet        st = stitch
ss = slip stitch               sp = space
ch = chain                      cnr = corner

A Double Treble
Yarn over hook three times, then insert hook into next stitch.
Yarn over hook and draw yarn through stitch (there are five loops on the hook).
Loop yarn over hook and draw through two loops (there are now four loops remaining on the hook).
Yarn over hook and draw through two loops (there are now three loops remaining on the hook).
Yarn over hook and draw through two loops (there are now two loops remaining on the hook).
Again, loop yarn over hook and draw through the last two loops on the hook (there is now one loop remaining.)

5dtr tog, leaving the last loop of each stitch on hook, you will have 5 stitches left on the hook and you yarn over and take them all off

We will be making 4 squares which we join for around the head and then the 5th square is slightly different for the top of the hat

Remember the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on this written pattern.
I am using a 3.75mm/F size hook. I am using Red Heart Fashion Crochet Thread in a size 3. I am using Scarlet, Copper Mist and Maize.

1. Using Maize color,  Ch 5, ss into the 1st ch to make a ring

2.  Ch3, 15dc in the ring = 16dc including the ch3

3.  Ss into the 1st ch, fasten yarn off and change colors to Copper Mist

4.  Make a slip knot and join in one of the dc with a sc, ch1, sc in the same place, *2sc in the next dc* repeat to end (32sc), Change colors and go into the back loop of the ch you had made and finish the ss with your new color (Maize)

5.  Ch5, 4dtr tog (the 1st one will be in the same stitch and the other 3 will be in the next 3 stitches) For all of these you are working in the back loop.
 Ch6, 5dtr tog in the next 4 stitches (the 1st one is always in the same stitch as the previous stitch), ch 7,
*5dtr tog in the next 4, ch 6,
 5dtr tog in the next 4, ch7* repeat between the asterix to the end = 8 petals, ss into the stitch above the 5dtr tog, cut off yarn. Change to your new color (Scarlet)

6.  Make a slip knot and sc into any 7ch sp,
ch4, 4sc in the same sp,
1sc above the 5tr tog, 7sc in the next ch sp, 1sc above next 5tr tog
*5sc, 1 picot (3ch and sc into 1st ch), in the next ch space, 4sc in the same ch space,
1sc in the 5tr tog, 7sc in the next ch sp,* repeat between the asterix ending with 5sc in next ch sp, ss into the picot ch sp

7.  Ch 5, 1dc, in the same picot you ss in,
*1dc in each of the sc going towards the next picot (17 dc),
1dc, 2ch, 1dc in the picot ch sp* repeat this ending with 17 dc, ss into the 2ch sp

8. On this round place a marker in all your corners and keep them there.
 Ch5, 1dc in same sp, 1ch,* 1dc in the next dc, 1ch, skip 1dc and 1dc into the next dc, 1ch* repeat this till you have 10dc before the next cnr, then for the corners you do 1dc, 2ch, 1dc in the same space, now do in between the asterix and the corner again until you complete the round ending with ch1 and ss into the 3rd ch

PART 2 - JOINING AND FINISHING OUR HAT

9.  If you find it too hard to join your squares by crocheting you can sew them together. You will be making 5 squares, 4 for around the head and the 5th one which is slightly different you will use on the top of the hat.
Make 1 complete square and then with your 2nd square you will join on the last rows of the square. You can do 1 or 2 sides (of that last row) and then on the next side start in the corner and join to the new square
The video will show you how to join the last motif but to join the first 3 motifs you use exactly the same process to join them but you are ony joining one side. ONLY the last motif (the 4th one) gets joined onto the first and the last motif
JOINING TECHNIQUE - Video is showing you the last motif but it is the same technique just joining one side

10.  So after you have done your 10th dc you, ch2,
 now to join one side to the other you start with this square and start with a corner and
 1dc, 1ch, 1sc in opp motif's cnr (come from under the square)ch1, 1dc again in the 1st motifs corner, ch1,
sc in opp motifs next ch space, ch1
1dc in 1st motifs 1st stitch, 1ch
1sc in opp motif, 1ch
now in the 1st motif you skip one and then do 1dc, ch1
*sc in opp motif, ch1
skip one on 1st motif, 1dc in the next and ch1*  repeat between the asterix till you have made your 10th dc on the 1st motif and ch1,
 then 1sc in the opp motif, ch1 and now you do 1dc, 1ch in the 1st motifs corner, 1sc in the opp motifs corner, ch1, 1dc into the 1st motifs same corner, ch1 (don't forget to finish that corner with 1dc)
then you go down the 1st motifs next side (remember to go into the 1st dc with 1dc, ch1) then you skip 1, 1dc, ch1, skip 1, 1dc ch1 etc and finish your square, by ss into the beg ch
Keep your markers in their place.

11. Joining the 4th motif to the 1st and 3rd motif.   You will do the same as above except do 1 side of 1st motif then join one side, then do the other side of the 1st motif and then join the last side together

12. For the very last join's ending

13. THE TOP MOTIF
For the 5th motif, all the rows are the same except on row 7, the dc becomes a double treble and the begining chain will be ch 7.

14. Row 8 stays the same except you are joining it onto the 4 other motifs

15. Joining the corners, You do the 1st dc in 1st motifs corner then you ch1, go into opp motifs corner bring up a loop, keep it on your hook, go into the opp motifs corner and bring up a loop, go through all 3 loops, ch1, finish 1st motifs corner, ch1, sc in opp motif and keep joining

16. Very last joining on top

BORDER AROUND HAT

17. Join yarn and start in anyone of the ch spaces, ch4, 1dc in next space, *ch1, 1dc in next ch sp* repeat this all the way around, finsh with a ch1 and ss into the 3rd ch (56 dc)

18. Ch1, 2sc in each ch sp all the way around and ss into the 1st ch1

19. Ch1, 1sc in each sc, all the way around and ss into the 1st ch1.

Do as many rows as you need. I did 3 rows and finished.

Crochet a Hat in Tunisian Knit Stitch Part 1 & 2

CROCHET A HAT IN TUNISIAN KNIT STITCH


I used Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable. It is a 4 medium in weight and called Echo and I used a size 6mm or J afghan hook. Also a size 5mm/H crochet hook for the border.

This hat is crocheted straight (working stitches onto our hook and taking them off - not in the round)


 Tunisian Knit Stitch = Putting all your stitches onto your hook and then taking them all off is considered 1 row (it is 2 parts going there and coming back that makes 1 row. So if I say do 1 row, you would put your stitches on and then you would take them off)

tks = tunisian knit stitch
sc = single crochet, Ch = chain

1.  Ch 88 stitches

2.  Going into the 2nd ch from the hook, bring up a stitch and keep it on your hook.  Go into each of the chains and leave the stitch on the hook
Now you take them off the hook by Going through 1 loop and then going through 2 loops at a time till they are all off your hook.

3. You always skip the first bar, and go in between the next stitch, pull up a loop and keep it on your stitch, keep putting on a new stitch.

4.  FINDING THE END STITCH - an easy way

5. After doing number 2 and 3 (that made 1 row) you will do another 15 rows (giving you 16 rows of tunisian knit stitch - measuring about 3 inches

6.(Row 17)  Tunisian Knit 3 stitches (the one that was already on your hook is the 1st, so that gives you 4) and decrease 1, *Tunisian Knit 4, decrease 1* repeat in between the stars to the end of the row ending with Tunisian Knit 4 = 74 stitches remaining
Take stitches off your hook

7.(row 18) Tunisian knit stitches onto hook and take them off

8. (I say row 19 on video) We decrease here again.
Tks in the next 2 stitches, decrease 1, *tks in the next 3 stitches, 1decrease* repeat this to the end, ending with tks last 4 stitches
take stitches off hook  (60 stitches left now)

9.  ( row 20) tks onto your hook and take them off (60 stitches)

10. (row 21) Tks 1 stitch, 1 decrease *tks 2 stitches, 1 decrease* to the end, ending with tsk the last 4 stitches (46 stitches remaining)

11. (row 22 and 23) Both rows you will just Tks across and take your stitches off

12. (row 24) Tks 1, 1 decrease, *tks 2, decrease 1* repeat this (35 stitches) ending with 2 tks. Take stitches off hook

13. (rows 25 and 26) you will tsk across and take them off

14. (row 27) tks 1, decrease 1, *tks 2, decrease 1* repeat this to the last 3 and tks the last 3 stitches (27 stitches), Take stitches off hook

15. (row 28) tks 1, decrease 1, *tks 2, decrease 1* repeat this (21 stitches) Take your stitches off

16. (row 29)* Decrease 1, tks 1,* repeat this (14 stitches) Take your stitches off

17. (row 30) Decrease x6, tks the last stitch, Take the stitches off your hook (8 stitches)

18. (row 31) Decrease x3, tks the last stitch, Take the stitches off your hook (5 stitches)

19. (row 32) Decrease all 5 together, (put all 4 loops onto your hook, and bring a loop through, cut off your yarn and finish

MAKING THE BORDER

1. Using a size 5mm or H crochet hook, Right side facing you, sc 88 stitches along the border of the hat, ss into 1st stitch and chain 1, then do a sc in each of the following 87 stitches = 88 stitches. Joining the other side, slip stitch into the chain you made.

2. Ch1, 1sc in each of the sc = 88 stitches. I did 2 rows of sc but if you want to do more than that it will be fine (remember it will make your hat longer the more rows you do)

3. Ss into the 1st sc, (88 stitches) and Ch1, 1sc in each of the next 4 stitches,
 into the next sc you do 1sc, ch7, 1sc,
*1sc into the next 7,( 1sc, ch7, 1sc) into the next sc* repeat this to the last 2 sc and do 1sc in each of those. ss into 1st sc

4.  Ch3, skip the next sc, 1sc in the next stitch, skip the next 2sc and do 9sc in the ch7 space, skip the next 2sc and do* 1sc in the next one, 1dc in the next, 1sc in the next, skip the next 2 stitches, 9sc in the ch 7 space, skip the next 2* repeat the instructions between the stars to the end finishing by skipping the last 2 and ss into the top of the beg ch3.

5. * Ch4, 1sc in the 5th sc (of the 9sc you did), ch5, 1sc in the same sc, ch4 and sc in the dc you made on previous round* repeat this all the way around ending with the ch4 and do a sc in the 1st ch of the ch4

6. Ch1, 3sc in the ch4 space, 5sc in the 5ch space,  3sc in the next ch4 space, 1sc in the middle sc (between the ch spaces)
*3sc in the ch sp, 5sc in the 5ch space, 3sc in the next ch sp, 1sc in the sc*to the end, ending with 3sc in the last ch sp, ss into 1st st

Sew your hat together and you are done.

How to Crochet a Granny Square Hat

Hi there,

This is a lesson on making a granny square hat using 5 squares and sewing them together.

Video is at http://curious.com/gillyscraftworld/crochet-a-hat-with-5-granny-squares


                                  HOW TO CROCHET A GRANNY SQUARE HAT

dc = double crochet      *  *  rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet        st = stitch
ss = slip stitch               sp = space
ch = chain                      cnr = corner

Yarn used is Caron Simply Soft Size 4 medium and I used a size 5:00mm / H Hook
We are making 5 granny squares with 6 rounds each measuring about 5.5 inches.
The numbers on here correspond to the numbers on the video

How to Crochet a Granny Square Hat

Hi there,

I thought I would make a granny square hat as it is so easy and here it is!
Remember the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.

HOW TO CROCHET A GRANNY SQUARE HAT

I used Caron Simply Soft yarn in the navy, turquoise, yellow, red and orange

I used a size 5.00mm hook

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 

Ch = chain,  * * =repeat work in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch, hdc = half a double crochet

1.  Ch4, (the first 3ch stand as your first double crochet), 11dc in the first ch that you made = 12dc. Sc into the top of the ch3. Change color an finish the sc with your new color

2.  Ch3,1 dc in the same place, *2dc in each st all the way around* = 24dc, Sc into 1^st st and change your yarn color

3.  Ch3, 1dc in the same place, 1dc in the next st,* 2dc in the next st, 1dc in the next st* repeat to the end of the round = 36dc, Sc into the 1^st st and change your color

4.  Ch1, 1sc in each st around = 36sc, sc into 1^st stitch and change color

5.  Ch6 (4 of those ch will stand for your treble),  1Tr into the same st, 1dc in each of the next 2 st, 1hdc in the next st, 1sc in each of the next 2sc, 1hdc in the next st, 1dc in each of the next 2st, 1Tr in the next st, ch2, 1Tr in the same st,

 * 1dc in the next 2 st, 1hdc in the next st, 1sc in each of the next 2sc, 1hdc in the next st, 1dc in each of the next 2st, 1Tr  2ch  1Tr (cnr) in the next stitch* repeat this to end of square but finishing with 1dc in the last 2 stitches and ss into the 4^th ch

6. Ch3, 2dc, ch2, 2dc in the same space (cnr), starting in the very first dc, make 1dc in each of the next 10dc till you get to the next cnr, *2dc in the next space  ch2  2dc in the same space, 10dc in each of the next 10dc* rep to end but ending with the 9dc in each of the next 9dc, as the ch3 that you started with becomes the 10^th dc, ss into the top of that ch3

7.  This round = for the 4 motifs going around your hat, this round will be done in hdc but for the 5^th motif right at the top you will do dc. I will say dc/hdc and use whichever one is needed

Ch3, 1dc/hdc in the next st, 3dc/hdc in the corner, 14 dc/hdc in the next 14st,

*14dc/hdc in the next 14 stitches, 3dc/hdc in the corner* repeat to end, ending with 12dc/hdc as 13 and 14 where made in the beginning, and sc into top of the ch3 you made

8.  Sew your 4 squares together sewing the last one to the 3^rd and 1^st square, sew the 5^th square at the top attaching it to the 4 squares

BORDER

9. Start in the middle of any square, Ch3, 1dc in each of the stitches all around

10. Do another round or as many or less as you need. I did another round of 1sc in each of the dc and then I did one round of reverse single crochet.

How to Crochet a Hat with Butterfly Motif

Hi there everyone,
I am very happy with the way my hat turned out so am sharing it with you. Remember that the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the pattern. The whole hat is done in hdc except for the border which you can do in hdc or in the back or forward post hdc like I did.

How to Crochet a Hat with a Butterfly Motif

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 

Ch = chain,  * * =repeat work in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch

P = pink  W=white

This hat is done in half a double crochet – hdc all the way.

I used caron simply soft yarn with a size 6.5 (k) hook.

The numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on this written pattern

1.  Ch 4, ss into the 1^st ch to form a ring

2.  Ch2, 7hdc in the ring = 8hdc, ss into the 1^st ch of the ch2

3.  Ch2 (stands as 1^st hdc) 1hdc in the same sp, *2hdc in each st*, repeat to the end,  ss into 1^st ch = 16hdc

4.  Ch2 (for 1^st hdc), 1hdc in the same sp, 1hdc in the next st, *2hdc in the next st, 1hdc in the next st* rep to end – 24 hdc, ss into 1^st st

5.  Ch2, 1hdc in the same st, 1hdc in next st, 1hdc in the  next st, *2hdc in the next st, 1hdc in the next st, 1hdc in the next st* to the end = 32 hdc, ss into 1^st st

6. Ch2, 1hdc in next st, 1hdc in the next, 1hdc in the next, *2hdc in the next st, 1hdc in each of the next 3st* to the end = 40hdc, ss into 1^st st

7.  Ch2, 1hdc in each of the next 4st, *2hdc in the next st, 1hdc in each of the next 4 st* to the end = 48st, ss into1st st

8.  Ch2, 1 hdc in each of the next 5st, *2hdc in the next st, 1hdc in each of the next 5st* to the end =56st, ss into 1^st st

9. Ch2, 1hdc in each of the next 6st, *2hdc in the next st, 1hdc in each of the next 6st* to the end = 64st, ss into 1^st st

You need to repeat each row twice – P = pink  W =white

10.   Crochet 15p stitches, 1w, 3p, 1w, 12p – repeat this again. Make sure you end with exactly 12 pink stitches

10. You need to repeat each row twice      P = pink  W =white

Butterfly motif pattern

1.     15p  1w  3p  1w  12p  (x2) 

2.     9p  4w  2p  1w  2p  1w  2p  4w  7p  (x2)

3.     7p  7w  1p  1w  1p  1w  1p  7w  6p  (x2)

4.     5p  9w  1p  2w  1p  9w  5p

5.     5p  9w  1p  2w  1p  9w  5p

6.     7p  7w  1p  2w  1p  7w  7p

7.     8p  6w  1p  2w  1p  6w  8p

8.     11p   3w  1p  2w  1p  3w  11p

9.     10p  4w  1p  2w  1p  4w  10p

10.    8p  5w  2p  2w  2p  5w  8p

11.     8p  2w  1p  2w  2p  2w  2p  2w  1p  2w  8p

12.      8p  4w  8p  4w  8p

13.     9p  3w  9p  3w  8p

11. One PLAIN ROW after pattern 

BORDER

23.   1bphdc, 1fphdc all around – watch video – as many rows as you may need.

BPHDC –back post half a double crochet

Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

FPHDC –front post half a double crochet

Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Knitted Butterfly Hat

KNITTED BUTTERFLY HAT

video is at http://curious.com/gillyscraftworld/how-to-knit-a-hat-with-a-butterfly

K = Knit,  P = Purl, Dec = Decrease (slip one, knit one, pull slipped stitch over = psso), * * = repeat inside astericks

Caron Simply Soft in black and in yellow

Size 8 (U.S.A) 5mm circular needle

We are knitting in the round and you need to know how to do basic color knitting

Caron Simply Soft in black and in yellow

Size 8 (U.S.A) 5mm circular needle

We are knitting in the round and you need to know how to do basic color knitting

To cast on we are casting on a multiple of 5 for the first stitch pattern to work

A. Cast on 90 Stitches

1. *P2, K3 *, rep to end (ending with k3)

2. *P2, K3*, rep to end (ending with k3)

3. *P2, Put yarn to knit position slip a stitch purlwise, K2, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 stitches you just knitted,* repeat this to end ending by passing slipped stitch over.

4. *P2, K1, put your yarn over your needle (or put it in the purl position but knit one instead of purling ) and K1 * repeat to end

These 4 rows form your pattern. I did those 4 rows (x2) for my hat

5. Knit one row and increase 6 stitches throughout the row evenly (you divide your row evenly by 6) You should now have 96 stitches

BUTTERFLY MOTIF ON HAT

bl = black,  y = yellow

REPEAT EACH ROW THREE TIMES

6. 8bl, 3y, 10bl, 3y, 8bl (this equals 32 stitches and repeated three times gives you your 96 stitches)

7. 9bl, 3y, 8bl, 3y, 9 bl

8. 9bl, 4y, 6bl, 4y, 9bl

9. 8bl, 5y, 6bl, 5y, 8bl

10. 8bl, 3y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 3y, 8bl

11. 8bl, 3y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 3y, 8bl

12. 8bl, 6y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 6y, 8bl

13. 9bl, 5y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 5y, 9bl

14. 10bl, 4y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 4y, 10bl

15. 8bl, 2y, 5bl, 2y, 5bl, 2y, 8bl

16. 8bl, 1y, 6bl, 2y, 6bl, 1y, 8bl

17. 7bl, 2y, 1bl, 2y, 3bl, 2y, 3bl, 2y, 1bl, 2y, 7bl

18. 6bl, 2y, 2bl, 2y, 2bl, 1y, 2bl, 1y, 2bl, 2y, 2bl, 2y, 6bl

19. 5bl, 3y, 5bl, 1y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 1y, 5bl, 3y, 5bl

20. 5bl, 3y, 4bl, 1y, 2bl, 2y, 2bl, 1y, 4bl, 3y, 5bl

21. 4bl, 8y, 2bl, 1y, 2bl, 1y, 2bl, 8y, 4bl

22. 4bl, 6y, 3bl, 1y, 4bl, 1y, 3bl, 6y, 4bl

23. 12bl, 1y, 6bl, 1y, 12bl

24. 11bl, 1y, 8bl, 1y, 11bl

25. 1 row knit in black

DECREASING

26. *K14, slip one stitch, K1, pull slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (psso)*,rep to end, leaving you with 90stitches

27. *K13, slip one stitch,K1, psso* to end (84 st)

28. *K12, slip one, K1, psso* to end (78 st)

29. *K11, slip one, K1, psso* to end (72 st)

30. *K10, slip one, K1, psso* to end (66 st)

31. *K9, slip one, K1, psso* to end (60 st)

32. *K8, slip one, K1, psso* to end (54 st)

33. *K7, slip one, K1, psso* to end (48 st)

34. *K6, slip one, K1, psso* to end (42 st)

33. *K5, slip one, K1, psso* to end (36 st),  I went onto pointed needles here

32. *K4, slip one, K1, psso* to end (30 st)

33. *K3, slip one, K1, psso* to end (24 st)

34. *K2, slip one, K1, psso* to end (18 st)

35. *K1, slip one, K1, psso* to end (12 st)

36. *Slip one, K1, psso* to end

37. cast off, K2, pull one stitch over the other, K1, pull stitch over the other, to end

How to Crochet a Hat using Motifs

Hi there, 

In this video I will be showing you how to crochet a hat in cotton using 4 motifs and then finishing the top portion. I hope you enjoy.

The Pattern is Here:

I used red heart cotton no 3 and a size 3.5mm hook

HOW TO CROCHET WHITE MOTIF HAT

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 

Ch = chain,  * * =repeat work in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch

5 Treble Together = *Wrap yarn around hook x2, insert hook into st (read pattern for either same st or into the next st), yarn over, bring a loop thru, yarn over, thru 2 loops, thru 2, leave rest on hook*, repeat till 5 trebles done, yarn over and thru all remaining loops.

This hat has 4 squared motifs that are joined together to start with and then the top portion is worked with 1 motif.

So we start by making one full motif and then we join a motif to that one and then another motif and then the 4^th one is joined to the first and last motif so we have a circle.

Motif 1 is made completely.

Motif 2 and motif 3 are made with 2 corners and are joined to opp motif with 3^rd and 4^th corner.

Motif 4 is made with row 5 and then 1^st corner is attached to motif 3 and 2^nd corner is attached to motif 3, 3^rd corner to motif 1 and 4^th corner to motif 1 to form a tube.

      

1 complete motif

1.Make  a magic circle with 18sc in it, ss into 1^st sc

2.Ch8 (1^st 3ch stand for 1^st dc), skip 2sc and dc in the 3^rd sc, *ch5, 1dc in the 3^rd sc* (ending with 6 ch spaces) finishing with ch5, ss into 3^rd ch

3. In each ch sp you do *1sc, 1hdc, 2dc, 3Tr, 2dc, 1hdc, 1sc* repeat this in each ch sp ( petals) and ss into 1^st stitch

4.Ch1, 1ss in 1^st sc, *ch1, 1ss in next st* (so you are doing 1Slip Stitch (not single crochet) in each stitch with a ch1 in between, ss into 1^st st.

5.Ss your way up to the middle of the 3Tr,* ch10 and sc in the ‘dip’ (where you did sc in previous round), ch10, sc in the middle of the 3Tr* ending with ch10 and ss into the first set of ch10  (12  ch spaces now)

6. Ss into 1^st ch sp, Ch 4, 4Tr Tog, ch5, 5Tr Tog, ch5, 5Tr tog, in the same sp,

   * Ch5, sc in next ch sp, ch 5 in next ch sp, ch5, 5Tr tog, ch 5, 5Tr tog, ch5, 5 Tr tog* repeat to end,  finishing with ch 5 and ss into the 3^rd chain of the beginning chains made (4 corners made)

( Now we will make another motif and we will join motifs 1 and motif 2

We make another motif and we will join motif 2 and 3

We make another motif and we will join motif 4 to motif 3 and motif 1)

7. Start your 2^nd motif and do 2 corners, then do the first 5 Tr Tog of corner 3, then you ch3 and sc into the 1^st motifs corner, ch2, 5Tr tog in 1^st motif, ch3,

 sc in opp motifs ch sp, ch2,

5Tr tog, ch3,

 sc into opp motif, ch2,

 sc into motif, ch3,

 sc into opp motif, ch2,

 sc into motif, ch3,

 sc into opp motif, ch2,

 5Tr tog into motif, ch3,

Sc into opp motif, ch2

5 Tr Tog into motif ch3

Sc in opp motif, ch2

5Tr Tog in motif, ch5, sc into ch sp, ch5, sc into ch sp, ch5,  ss into top of 5tr cluster.

8. Do No 7 again with the 3^rd motif – in the video I had already done it

JOINING THE 4 MOTIFS TOGETHER TO FORM A CIRCLE – motif 4  to motif 3 and motif 1

9. Make sure your wrong sides are together and you are working on the right side

You will join this 4^th motif onto both motifs (3 and 1) so all 4 corners will be joined together.

Make sure you have 12 ch spaces on the 4^th motif.  You will not complete the first 2 corners on this motif. You will complete row 5 and then, ss into the ch sp, (making first corner and joining to opp motif) make the 1^st 5 tr tog and join to opp motif as we did before to make a corner, join your 2 ch sp like we did before and join your next corner, join another 2 ch spaces and join your next corner onto the very first motif to make a circle. Make sure your wrong sides are together and you are working on the right side, join your 2 ch spaces, join last corner, and then finish your last 2 ch sp with a ch5 sc, ch5 sc, ss into top of 5 tr tog

PART 2 OF VIDEO

Top Part of Hat

1. Start at the top or bottom of the tube and ss into any one of the ch spaces

2. Ch 5, sc in the next ch sp, do this all the way around so you have 24 ch spaces

3. Sc into 1^st ch sp, *5 Tr Tog ( in the beginning you always do this -  Ch 4 (1^st tr), 5ch*, to the end (end with ch 5) and you have 24  5 tr clusters

4. ss into top of 1^st tr you made, 3sc in each of the ch spaces all the way around

5. Ss into the 1^st sc, *ch 5, skip one tr cluster and sc into the next sc above the cluster*, all the way around and you should have 12 ch spaces now, end with ch5

6. ss into the first stitch, sc in the first ch sp. Don’t end yarn just stop and start the motif with new yarn - make the flower from the motif – row 1- 5 but in row 5 instead of ch10 you are only going to do ch 6.

7. Go back to your hat and start where you left off  Ch 2, sc in the motif, ch2, sc in hat’s next ch sp,* ch 2, sc in motif’s next ch sp, ch 2, sc in hat’s next ch sp* rep this till flower is attached. You have 12 ch spaces on the motif and 12 ch spaces on your hat so there is one for each.

8. You should finish by going into the motif and then ch2 and go into the hat where you started your first ch 2, sc and end off.

9. Turn hat so you are working on the brim part. Join in any ch sp with a sc. 5 sc in each one of the ch spaces. If you need your hat a touch larger you can do 6 or 7 sc in each space.

10. Ss into your first sc, ch1, skip 1sc and sc in the next, 1 sc in the sc you missed (going backwards), *skip the next sc (forward) and sc in the next , sc in the one you missed (backwards)*

11. At the end if yours works out where you can skip one sc and sc into the one you missed then just sc in the next forward one and finish off with a ss. If you didn’t end with one left to skip just do another sc and ss into next stitch and finish off.

How to Knit a Hat in Colors

HOW TO KNIT A HAT IN COLORS

Hi there,
This video is very good for beginners as it only has a bit of decreasing and if you don't want to change colors you don't have to. I hope you enjoy making this. Here is the pattern!

STRIPED KNITTED HAT

Caron Simply Soft in: Red, pink, orange, yellow, green, pagoda, light blue

Size 8 circular needle, which is a 5mm

Knit = kn,  tog = together,  st = stitches

1.      Cast on 96 stitches, make sure all your stitches are facing the the right way, before you start knitting your first row. Remember to do your jogless join for all your color changes!

Knit red for 5 or 6 rows whichever you prefer or more and keep changing your colors until your hat is the length you like or it measures about 6 inches.

You want to do a jogless join because when you change colors you can see where you changed the colors there is like a jog between colors and we want to prevent that.

So to do the jogless join you knit one row in your new color and then on the next row you lift the “right v” of the stitch below up and stretch it onto the needle, and knit the 2 stitches together.

Now we need to decrease.

Once your work measures 6 inches from the bottom to where you are you can now start decreasing. I am on color 6 when I start decreasing about 30 -32 rows have been knit

Decrease by: decrease by slipping the next st onto the needle, knit the next st and then

pull the slipped st over the knitted one

Row 1:* K14, k2tog*, all the way around, make sure you decreased 6 times, ending with  k2tog and  90 stitches are left

Row 2: Knit

Row 3:* k7, decrease by slipping the next st onto the needle, knit the next st and then pull the slipped st over the knitted one, so* k7, decrease 1 st,* keep doing that till the end and you have 80 st

Row 4: knit

Row 5: *k6, decrease 1* like previous row, repeat to end – 70st left

Row 6: knit

Row 7: *k5, decr 1*, to end – 60 stitches

           

Row8: knit

Row 9:* k4, dec 1*, to end – 50 stitches

Row 10: knit

Row 11: knit (still 50 stitches)

Row 12: knit

Row 13: knit

Row 14: knit

Row 15: knit

Row 16: knit, cut your yarn (make it fairly long), to finish off

Row 17: push all your stitches to the left needle and take a yarning needle and working with 2 stitches at a time, pull the stitch behind, over the 1^st one and thread the stitch onto the yarn, repeat to end.  Take yarn through hole and sew it away.

Crochet a Cotton Beret

 Hi there,

This is one of my favorite projects I have made and am wanting to share it with you.  It is such a light weight beret and easy to wear.  This has part 1 and part 2!

The instructions and the video are below, so you can follow along, The intro has some bloopers for fun,  just click on the link
Hope you have fun!

I used the Red Heart Crochet Thread size 3 and  3.5mm hook.  The thread size 3 is the important part.
Part 1

Part 2

Cotton Beret

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 

Ch = chain,  * * = work all in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, rep = repeat, ss = slip stitch

Dc Cluster =  yo, hook into st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops on hook (2 loops left on hook), yo hook into st required to go into, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops on hook, do this to all 5dc, after the 5^th dc yo and pull yarn thru all 6 stitches at once (except beg 5dc cluster which is 5 st)

2Tr cluster = yo twice, hook into st required, pull up a loop, yo, and draw hook thru 2 st, yo and thru 2 st, do this process into the next required st and then yo and pull through all 3 loops at end

I used the Red Heart Crochet Thread size 3 and  3.5mm hook.  The thread size 3 is the important part not the make.

1.     Ch3, ss in 1^st ch to form a ring

2.    Ch5 (which stands as 1dc, ch2), *1dc in the ring, 2ch* rep in the stars till you have 8dc, end with the 2ch and ss in the 3^rd ch of beginning ch5

3.    Ss into 1^st 2ch sp, Ch 7 (which stands for 1dc, ch4) *1dc, ch4 in next sp* rep till end (8dc) ending with ch4

4.    Ss in the 3^rd ch, ss in the 1^st ch4 sp, ch3 sc in the same ch sp, ch3 sc in the dc,* ch3 sc in next ch sp, 3ch sc in the dc*, rep to end finishing with ss in the 1^st ch sp (so including that 1^st ch sp you should have 17 ch3 spaces)
( when you make the sc into the last ch sp, make another ch3 and a sc into the "dc" below, and then make another ch3 and ss into the 1st ch sp) THIS IS THE ENDING SUMMARIZED

5.    Ch3 (1^st dc) 3dc in same ch sp, *4dc in each ch sp* (17x4 = 68dc)rep to end, ss into 3^rd ch of 1^st ch of the ch 3

6.    Ch3 (standing for 1^st dc) 1 dc in each of the next 3dc, ch1, *1dc in each of  the next 4dc ch1* repeat to end ending with ch1 and ss in the 3rd  ch of the ch3

7.    3ch (1^st dc) 1dc in next dc, 2dc in the next 1dc, 1dc in next dc (=5dc in the 4dc,  you increased) ch2, *5dc in the 4dc ch2*rep to end, ending with ch2 and ss in the 3^rd ch

8.    Ch3, 1 dc in each of the next 4dc, ch2, *1dc in each of the next 5dc, ch2* rep to end ending with ch2, ss in 3^rd ch

9.    Ch3, 1dc in each of the next 4dc, ch3, *1dc in each of the next 5dc, ch3* rep to end ending with ch3 and ss into the 3^rd ch

10.                       Ch3, 1dc in each of the next 4dc, ch4, *1dc in each of the next 5dc, ch4* rep to end ss in 3^rd ch

11.                       Ch3, 1dc in each of the next 4dc, 5ch, * 1dc in each of the        next 5d, ch5* rep to end ending with ss in 3^rd ch

12.  Rows 12 thru 18 do the same as row 11 (this forms the   fullness of your beret, so you can do more or less if you like)

 19.   Ch 3, 1dc in each of the next 4dc, *ch1 3sc in the 5ch sp, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 5dc* rep to end ending with ch1, 3sc ch1, ss in 3^rd ch

20.  ch3, 1dc in each of the next 4dc, 1ch 1sc in each of the next 3sc, ch1, *1dc in each of the next 5dc, ch1, 1sc in each of the next 3sc, ch1* to end ending with ch1 1sc in next 3sc, ch1, ss in 3^rd ch

21.  ch3, 1dc in each of the next 4dc, *ch3, 1sc in each of the next 3sc, 3ch, 1dc in each of next 5dc* rep, ending with ch3, 1sc in each of the next 3sc, ch3, ss in 3^rd ch

22.  ch3, 5 dc cluster, ch4, 1sc in each of next 3sc, ch 4, *5dc cluster, ch4, 1sc in each of the next 3sc, ch4* repeat to end ending with ch4, 1sc in each of the next 3sc, ch4, ss into the top of the 5dc cluster

23.  *ch5, 2Tr cluster in the middle of the 1^st 4ch sp and in the middle of the 2^nd 4ch sp, ch5, sc into top of the 5dc cluster* rep till back at the ch5 made in the beginning and ss into the 3^rd ch

24.  ch3(counts as first dc), 2dc in the 1^st ch sp, *3dc in the next ch sp* rep this all around to end and ss in the 3^rd ch

25.  ch 3, 1dc in the next dc, *The 3dc from previous round is now reduced to 2dc so do 2dc over the next 3dc* all the way around, ss in the 3^rd ch

26.  sc in each dc all the way around

27.  If you want it tighter, ss in each sc all the way around

Let me know if you have any struggles!

Enjoy your day

Gill