Thursday, December 26, 2013

How to Crochet a Lacy Granny Square





Hi there, This is a wonderful lacy granny square which can be used for anything. I hope you enjoy making it.

LACY GRANNY SQUARE
You can use any size crochet hook and yarn
Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 
Ch = chain,  * * =repeat work in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch (or sl st)

1  Make 5 ch and join into a ring
2  1Ch, 11sc into ring, sl st to first ch
3  *15ch, sl st into next sc, rep from * 11 times more; working last sl st into sl st at end of rnd 1, ending with 12 ch loops
4.  Sl st along to centre of first loop, *4ch, 1sc into next loop, 4ch, (yo,  insert hook into next loop, yarn over, draw loop through, yarn over, draw through 2 loops) 3 times, yarn over, draw through all 4 loops on hook – called cluster – 4ch, cluster into same loop, 4ch, 1sc into next loop, repeat from * 3 times more, working last sc into slip stitch at beg of round
5.  Sl st along to centre of first 4ch loop, 3ch, cluster into this same loop, *4ch, 1sc into next loop, 4ch,  (cl, 4ch, cl) into next loop, 4ch, 1sc into next loop, 4ch, cl into next loop, rep from *3 times more, but omit last cluster and sl st to 3rd of first 3ch.

Fasten off

How to Crochet a Choker



 Hi, there,

This is a fairly easy choker to crochet. I hope you have fun making it.

CHOKER
Sc = single crochet,  ss= slip stitch,  dc = double crochet,  sp = space,  ch = chain,  rep = repeat,  beg = beginning, ** repeat in between stars
 
Any Embroidery Cotton
Hook, size 3.5

Pattern = 6 stitches, so multiples of 6 for your foundation ch

This choker is 13.5 inches in length, so I have 13 x 6 stitches (pattern) which gives me 78 ch plus 1 to turn = 79 stitches

1.   Ch 79 (78 plus 1), turn

2.   Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch = 78sc

For row 3 - On the video I said to ch1 turn and then ch3 (It was supposed to be ch1, turn and sc in 1st sc, I left out the sc , it isn’t going to make a big difference they will both work so either way)

3.   Ch1, sc in 1st sc, *ch3 skip 2sc, 3dc in next sc (3dc in same stitch), ch3, skip 2sc, sc in next sc* rep this till last 3dc, ch3 and sc1  in last sc

4.   *5ch, sc in 1st dc (of the 3),
Ch3, ss in the 1st ch of the 3 (picot made) x3 (make 3 picots one after each other)
Sc in the 3rd dc (of the 3)*  repeat this till end and end with the sc, then ch2 and dc in the sc below


Sew a button on.

Friday, December 20, 2013

How to Crochet a Doily in Bruges Lace


BRUGES LACE DOILY
To do this doily you need to know the basics of making a bruges lace
tape, you can watch my videos on bruges lace on youtube at
My video on making the bruge lace tape is at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rJNPeJxkZ8. My other bruges lace video is ashttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjpuxiJiEP4. 

The pattern goes from the beginning of the one cluster to the end of the same cluster which is 6 rows but our row one becomes row 7 (as we don’t do the beginning of row 1, so I changed it to row 7 to make it easier) so we repeat rows 2 to 7 till 7 clusters are made
 
To start we are starting where you see the 3dc increases except you are just trying to get your chains so the ch with the 3dc is still considered 1ch and then 2 more, so that gives you 3ch plus the 6ch for your loop. You are going from Left to Right. 
You need to look down on the row to do your row not up (so below the line is your row – if this helps)
Dc 3 tog  = yo, hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops (2 loops left), yo, hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops, yo hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops and through all st

3 Treble Together = *Wrap yarn around hook x2, insert hook into st (read pattern for either same st or into the next st), yarn over, bring a loop thru, yarn over, thru 2 loops, thru 2, leave rest on hook*, repeat till 3 trebles done, yarn over and thru all remaining loops.

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 
Ch = chain,  * * = work all in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch


WORKING OUR TAPE

1.    Ch 9, 1dc in the 7th ch from hook, (From right to left on pattern) 1dc in the next st and 3dc in the next st, ch 6 turn
2.    (Left to right) 3dc in the next dc (incr) and 1dc in each of the next 4dc, ch6 and turn
3.    (Right to left) 1dc in each of the next 7dc, ch 6 and turn
4.    (Left to right) 1dc in each of the next 7dc, ch3 and join your 2 loops with a sc, ch3 and turn
5.    (right to left) 1dc in each of the next 4dc and dc the last 3 tog, ch 6 and turn
6.    (left to right) dc the next 3dc tog, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch 6 and turn
7.    (right to left) 1dc in each of the next 2dc, 3dc in the next 1dc(incr) ch6, turn
Repeat row 2 to 7 until you have 7 “clusters” finishing with row 6 but without doing the ch6

When you join your 2 sides together to form a circle make sure that the 3 loops you had joined tog are all facing inside the circle

MIDDLE SECTION – adding middle motif to the tape
Make a magic loop and crochet 21sc in it, ss into 1st st
4ch, 2Tr tog in the following 2 st, ch4 and sc in the sc of the tape where you sc the 3 loops  together , ch 4
*3Tr tog in the next 3 st, ch 4 and sc in the sc of the tape where you sc the 3 loops together, ch 4* repeat in between the stars,

     to the end, ss into the top of the first 3Tr you made and finish

Friday, December 13, 2013

Knitted Butterfly Hat


KNITTED BUTTERFLY HAT



video is at http://curious.com/gillyscraftworld/how-to-knit-a-hat-with-a-butterfly
K = Knit,  P = Purl, Dec = Decrease (slip one, knit one, pull slipped stitch over = psso), * * = repeat inside astericks

Caron Simply Soft in black and in yellow
Size 8 (U.S.A) 5mm circular needle
We are knitting in the round and you need to know how to do basic color knitting


Caron Simply Soft in black and in yellow
Size 8 (U.S.A) 5mm circular needle

We are knitting in the round and you need to know how to do basic color knitting

To cast on we are casting on a multiple of 5 for the first stitch pattern to work

A. Cast on 90 Stitches

1. *P2, K3 *, rep to end (ending with k3)

2. *P2, K3*, rep to end (ending with k3)

3. *P2, Put yarn to knit position slip a stitch purlwise, K2, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 stitches you just knitted,* repeat this to end ending by passing slipped stitch over.

4. *P2, K1, put your yarn over your needle (or put it in the purl position but knit one instead of purling ) and K1 * repeat to end

These 4 rows form your pattern. I did those 4 rows (x2) for my hat

5. Knit one row and increase 6 stitches throughout the row evenly (you divide your row evenly by 6) You should now have 96 stitches

BUTTERFLY MOTIF ON HAT
bl = black,  y = yellow

REPEAT EACH ROW THREE TIMES

6. 8bl, 3y, 10bl, 3y, 8bl (this equals 32 stitches and repeated three times gives you your 96 stitches)
7. 9bl, 3y, 8bl, 3y, 9 bl
8. 9bl, 4y, 6bl, 4y, 9bl
9. 8bl, 5y, 6bl, 5y, 8bl
10. 8bl, 3y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 3y, 8bl
11. 8bl, 3y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 3y, 8bl
12. 8bl, 6y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 6y, 8bl
13. 9bl, 5y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 5y, 9bl
14. 10bl, 4y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 4y, 10bl
15. 8bl, 2y, 5bl, 2y, 5bl, 2y, 8bl
16. 8bl, 1y, 6bl, 2y, 6bl, 1y, 8bl
17. 7bl, 2y, 1bl, 2y, 3bl, 2y, 3bl, 2y, 1bl, 2y, 7bl
18. 6bl, 2y, 2bl, 2y, 2bl, 1y, 2bl, 1y, 2bl, 2y, 2bl, 2y, 6bl
19. 5bl, 3y, 5bl, 1y, 1bl, 2y, 1bl, 1y, 5bl, 3y, 5bl
20. 5bl, 3y, 4bl, 1y, 2bl, 2y, 2bl, 1y, 4bl, 3y, 5bl
21. 4bl, 8y, 2bl, 1y, 2bl, 1y, 2bl, 8y, 4bl
22. 4bl, 6y, 3bl, 1y, 4bl, 1y, 3bl, 6y, 4bl
23. 12bl, 1y, 6bl, 1y, 12bl
24. 11bl, 1y, 8bl, 1y, 11bl
25. 1 row knit in black
DECREASING
26. *K14, slip one stitch, K1, pull slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (psso)*,rep to end, leaving you with 90stitches
27. *K13, slip one stitch,K1, psso* to end (84 st)
28. *K12, slip one, K1, psso* to end (78 st)
29. *K11, slip one, K1, psso* to end (72 st)
30. *K10, slip one, K1, psso* to end (66 st)
31. *K9, slip one, K1, psso* to end (60 st)
32. *K8, slip one, K1, psso* to end (54 st)
33. *K7, slip one, K1, psso* to end (48 st)
34. *K6, slip one, K1, psso* to end (42 st)
33. *K5, slip one, K1, psso* to end (36 st),  I went onto pointed needles here
32. *K4, slip one, K1, psso* to end (30 st)
33. *K3, slip one, K1, psso* to end (24 st)
34. *K2, slip one, K1, psso* to end (18 st)
35. *K1, slip one, K1, psso* to end (12 st)
36. *Slip one, K1, psso* to end

37. cast off, K2, pull one stitch over the other, K1, pull stitch over the other, to end

Friday, November 15, 2013

How To Crochet a Motif Sweater



Hi there,

I have made this Sweater/Jersey using a whole bunch of the same motif. Below is a Schematic of the whole sweater laying flat, to give you an idea of how the motifs lie together to form the sweater.

PINK MOTIF SWEATER



Red Heart Shimmer pink 4 balls, 2 white, 2 black -  depending on size
Crochet hook 3.75mm (I used a smaller hook as I wanted my motif slightly smaller an my work to be tighter. If you want motif bigger use a bigger hook and yarn and opp for smaller.


Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 
Ch = chain,  * * =repeat work in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch

3 Treble Together = *Wrap yarn around hook x2, insert hook into st (read pattern for either same st or into the next st), yarn over, bring a loop thru, yarn over, thru 2 loops, thru 2, leave rest on hook*, repeat till 3 trebles done, yarn over and thru all remaining loops.

Small (large) will be shown like this



HOW MANY MOTIFS made all together(48 for the small and 72 for the large - according to the chart, if you make the sleeves longer like mine and the length longer you will use more.

PATTERN
1.Make a magic circle with 16 dc in it, or ch4 and do 15dc in the 1st ch (the 3ch would stand as 1st dc), ss into the 1st space
2. Ch5 (which stands for 1dc, ch2), 1dc in the same space, ch2, *1dc in the next space,  ch2 * repeat in each ch sp to end, ending with ch2, ss into 3rd ch  (16dc all together)
3. Ss into the 1st ch sp, ch 4, 2 tr tog (makes 3 tr tog) in the same sp, 4ch, *3Tr Tog, 4 ch in the next sp* to end, ch4 and ss into the top of the 3tr tog (16 clusters), Sc into the 1st ch sp with new color *white)
4. 4sc in each ch sp all the way around, sc into 1st sc , with new color and for the 1st motif only you will do a complete round in your black without joining, after that you will be joining your motifs
5. 1st motif only =* 6ch, sc in the stitch above the tr* all the way around (16 ch sp) ss into 1st st
JOINING OUR MOTIFS
We will join a row of motifs together one underneath each other. 8(9) motifs one under each other.
Remember you are working with either 4 loops or 2 loops
6. To join, you ch3, sc in opp motifs ch sp, ch3 and sc in the 1st motif, do this with 4 loops and then finish your motif by ch6 sc in the 1st motif  THIS YOU ONLY DO FOR YOUR 1st 2 Motifs joined together
7. For the long strip you start with you will join 8 (9) motifs.

  FOR THE REST OF THE MOTIFS in the strip - Make sure you join them in the right place Opposite the other 4 joined with 4 loops on either side.


KEEP LOOKING AT YOUR SCHEMATIC DRAWING TO HELP SEE WHERE TO PLACE MOTIFS.

The small sweater needs to watch everything to know what to do. I have one piece that is just for the small but all the rest shows you how to join and do the neck whether large or small

PART 2 – remember your front and back are all done in one piece. You make one long strip of 8(9) motifs first and then you start joining the others
8. Joining the First Middle one
9. Joining the longer bottom one
10. Joining 3 together
11. If you look at the schematic. The large has 9 motifs joined tog lengthwise and then 10 motifs and then 5 and 5 and then 10 and 9 motifs
The Small has 8 motifs lengthwise, 4 and 4 and 8 again UNLESS you are making yours longer.
12. Small only
13. Large only
14.  Joining the longest motif in middle row – you do the 4(5) motifs on the one side, turn your work around and do the other 4(5) on the other side leaving the space in the middle for your neck
15. Recap of joining 3 motifs
16. A few mistakes that can be made
17. Joining 4th row (row after the middle row – middle only has 4(5) going up and a space and then from the other side you do the other 4(5) and this row you have 8(10) motifs
18. A mistake I made and how to fix it!
19. How to do the straight row of motifs, going past  the 4(5) you did for the neck
20. Very Important part here – joining the straight row of motifs by the neck
21. Quick look at the small and finishing the body for both sizes


Part 3


SLEEVES
1. Showing you how to put the motifs together for the sleeves for the Small
2. Showing you how to put the motifs together for the sleeves for the Large
3. Small and Large how to join the motifs for sleeve. We are doing the sleeve flat and then folding the top in half and sewing the sides together
4. Folding Sweater in half
5. Sewing the sides and you would sew the sleeves the same way
6. Adding on extra motifs to the sleeve, if you need more (it is done in the round and not flat
7. Adding extra motifs on the bottom of your sweater
8. Quick Tips  - WHEN YOU ADD extra motifs on the bottom of sweater REMEMBER to crochet the 2 sides (Front and Back) together else you have to sew them together at the end
9. Neck Border
10. Sleeve Border

You can make either the sleeve border or the neck border for the bottom of your sweater.

Friday, November 1, 2013

How to Knit a Lacy Scarf, with a Crocheted Border



Hi there,

I will be showing you how to knit a lacy scarf, which has a crocheted border around it. It is very light and delicate and is soft and comfortable to wear. I hope you enjoy making it. Feel free Like me on Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/GillysCraftWorld


HOW TO KNIT A LACY SCARF
WITH A CROCHETED BORDER
This is made with Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable – Cappaccino – yarn size is a 4
Knitting Needles size 5mm or size 8
K = knit          K3tog =knit 3 together       P = Purl    yon = yarn over needle   * *= knit what is in between the stars and repeat that till the end
Ch = chain     dc = double crochet
A. Cast on a multiple of 6 plus 2 stitches, I casted on 30 plus 2 = 32 total
1. K1,* k3, yon, k3tog, yon,*, rep to last stitch, k1  (this row don’t forget that yon before you knit the last stitch)
2. Purl
3. k1, *yon, k3tog, yon, k3* rep to last stitch, k1
4. Purl
Rows 1-4 are the pattern that you keep repeating till your scarf is as long as you want it be.
5. All 4 rows shown on video in a quick version
6. Undoing/unpicking a few rows without pulling off all the stitches off the needle

CROCHETING THE BORDER – using a 5mm hook – crochet loosely
7. Start in any corner and ch5, *dc, ch2* in the holes, when you get to a corner do a few extra dc, ch2 (I did about 2 in each corner) – it depends on the yarn you used and the size hook, do it fairly loose though. Go all the way around.
8. When you get to the ch5 you started with, do ch3 and ss into the 3rd ch.

9. Ch3, 1dc in the ch sp, 1dc in the dc from previous row, *1dc in the ch sp,1 dc in the dc from previous row* repeat all the way around. If your corners pull then do extra dc’s in the corner.

Friday, October 18, 2013

How to Crochet a Hat using Motifs



Hi there, 
In this video I will be showing you how to crochet a hat in cotton using 4 motifs and then finishing the top portion. I hope you enjoy.

The Pattern is Here:
I used red heart cotton no 3 and a size 3.5mm hook



HOW TO CROCHET WHITE MOTIF HAT
Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 
Ch = chain,  * * =repeat work in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch

5 Treble Together = *Wrap yarn around hook x2, insert hook into st (read pattern for either same st or into the next st), yarn over, bring a loop thru, yarn over, thru 2 loops, thru 2, leave rest on hook*, repeat till 5 trebles done, yarn over and thru all remaining loops.

This hat has 4 squared motifs that are joined together to start with and then the top portion is worked with 1 motif.
So we start by making one full motif and then we join a motif to that one and then another motif and then the 4th one is joined to the first and last motif so we have a circle.

Motif 1 is made completely.
Motif 2 and motif 3 are made with 2 corners and are joined to opp motif with 3rd and 4th corner.
Motif 4 is made with row 5 and then 1st corner is attached to motif 3 and 2nd corner is attached to motif 3, 3rd corner to motif 1 and 4th corner to motif 1 to form a tube.
      
1 complete motif
1.Make  a magic circle with 18sc in it, ss into 1st sc
2.Ch8 (1st 3ch stand for 1st dc), skip 2sc and dc in the 3rd sc, *ch5, 1dc in the 3rd sc* (ending with 6 ch spaces) finishing with ch5, ss into 3rd ch
3. In each ch sp you do *1sc, 1hdc, 2dc, 3Tr, 2dc, 1hdc, 1sc* repeat this in each ch sp ( petals) and ss into 1st stitch
4.Ch1, 1ss in 1st sc, *ch1, 1ss in next st* (so you are doing 1Slip Stitch (not single crochet) in each stitch with a ch1 in between, ss into 1st st.
5.Ss your way up to the middle of the 3Tr,* ch10 and sc in the ‘dip’ (where you did sc in previous round), ch10, sc in the middle of the 3Tr* ending with ch10 and ss into the first set of ch10  (12  ch spaces now)
6. Ss into 1st ch sp, Ch 4, 4Tr Tog, ch5, 5Tr Tog, ch5, 5Tr tog, in the same sp,
   * Ch5, sc in next ch sp, ch 5 in next ch sp, ch5, 5Tr tog, ch 5, 5Tr tog, ch5, 5 Tr tog* repeat to end,  finishing with ch 5 and ss into the 3rd chain of the beginning chains made (4 corners made)

( Now we will make another motif and we will join motifs 1 and motif 2
We make another motif and we will join motif 2 and 3
We make another motif and we will join motif 4 to motif 3 and motif 1)
7. Start your 2nd motif and do 2 corners, then do the first 5 Tr Tog of corner 3, then you ch3 and sc into the 1st motifs corner, ch2, 5Tr tog in 1st motif, ch3,
 sc in opp motifs ch sp, ch2,
5Tr tog, ch3,
 sc into opp motif, ch2,
 sc into motif, ch3,
 sc into opp motif, ch2,
 sc into motif, ch3,
 sc into opp motif, ch2,
 5Tr tog into motif, ch3,
Sc into opp motif, ch2
5 Tr Tog into motif ch3
Sc in opp motif, ch2
5Tr Tog in motif, ch5, sc into ch sp, ch5, sc into ch sp, ch5,  ss into top of 5tr cluster.
8. Do No 7 again with the 3rd motif – in the video I had already done it

JOINING THE 4 MOTIFS TOGETHER TO FORM A CIRCLE – motif 4  to motif 3 and motif 1
9. Make sure your wrong sides are together and you are working on the right side
You will join this 4th motif onto both motifs (3 and 1) so all 4 corners will be joined together.
Make sure you have 12 ch spaces on the 4th motif.  You will not complete the first 2 corners on this motif. You will complete row 5 and then, ss into the ch sp, (making first corner and joining to opp motif) make the 1st 5 tr tog and join to opp motif as we did before to make a corner, join your 2 ch sp like we did before and join your next corner, join another 2 ch spaces and join your next corner onto the very first motif to make a circle. Make sure your wrong sides are together and you are working on the right side, join your 2 ch spaces, join last corner, and then finish your last 2 ch sp with a ch5 sc, ch5 sc, ss into top of 5 tr tog

PART 2 OF VIDEO
Top Part of Hat
1. Start at the top or bottom of the tube and ss into any one of the ch spaces
2. Ch 5, sc in the next ch sp, do this all the way around so you have 24 ch spaces
3. Sc into 1st ch sp, *5 Tr Tog ( in the beginning you always do this -  Ch 4 (1st tr), 5ch*, to the end (end with ch 5) and you have 24  5 tr clusters
4. ss into top of 1st tr you made, 3sc in each of the ch spaces all the way around
5. Ss into the 1st sc, *ch 5, skip one tr cluster and sc into the next sc above the cluster*, all the way around and you should have 12 ch spaces now, end with ch5
6. ss into the first stitch, sc in the first ch sp. Don’t end yarn just stop and start the motif with new yarn - make the flower from the motif – row 1- 5 but in row 5 instead of ch10 you are only going to do ch 6.
7. Go back to your hat and start where you left off  Ch 2, sc in the motif, ch2, sc in hat’s next ch sp,* ch 2, sc in motif’s next ch sp, ch 2, sc in hat’s next ch sp* rep this till flower is attached. You have 12 ch spaces on the motif and 12 ch spaces on your hat so there is one for each.
8. You should finish by going into the motif and then ch2 and go into the hat where you started your first ch 2, sc and end off.
9. Turn hat so you are working on the brim part. Join in any ch sp with a sc. 5 sc in each one of the ch spaces. If you need your hat a touch larger you can do 6 or 7 sc in each space.
10. Ss into your first sc, ch1, skip 1sc and sc in the next, 1 sc in the sc you missed (going backwards), *skip the next sc (forward) and sc in the next , sc in the one you missed (backwards)*
11. At the end if yours works out where you can skip one sc and sc into the one you missed then just sc in the next forward one and finish off with a ss. If you didn’t end with one left to skip just do another sc and ss into next stitch and finish off.

Wednesday, October 9, 2013

How to Crochet a Bracelet



 Hi there,
Here is a bracelet that I crocheted and decided to share with you.

BRACELET
Embroidery Cotton/Floss any colors you like. You will need 2 of each color to be safe.
Crochet hook 3.5mm

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch,
Ch = chain,  * * = work all in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo -- yarn over

1.  Ch10

2. 3dc in the 7th ch from the hook, 3ch and 3dc in the same place, 1Tr in the last ch,  ch4 and turn

3. In the 3ch space you do, 3dc, 3ch, 3dc (all in that same sp), 1Tr in the ch next to the 3dc (the last st of your row), ch4 and turn

4.  Do row 3 until you have the length that you desire.

5. Where you finished your row, Change color and do 3ch (Standing as 1st dc) do 7dc in 1st space, ss into next ch space, *8dc in next space and ss in the next sp*  keep doing this till the end. If not ending exactly see on video.

How to Crochet a Granny Square Flower



  Hi there,
This is a video I posted  a while ago but I decided to put it onto my blog.  Hope you have an awesome day!



FLOWER GRANNY SQUARE

Caron Simply Soft
Hook 5:00mm
Size about 5 inches

Chain = ch, Stitch = st, Double Crochet = dc, Single Crochet = sc, Chain Space = ch sp, Space = sp, Slip Stitch = st, Treble = tr,

4Tr cluster = Yarn over twice, hook into stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, (yarn over and draw through 2 loops) twice, do this for 4 trebles and at end yarn over and draw through all the loops (5) on hook

1. Ch 7, ss in first ch to form a ring

2. 2ch, 11sc in ring (=12sc), ss into 2nd ch from beg 2 ch

3. Ch5, dc in next st, *Ch3, dc in next st* repeat in between stars till 12dc, ss into 3rd ch, ss into space

4. Ch 4, 3 treble clusters in same sp (do cluster this beg one the ch 4 stands as the first tr and you have 4 loops on hook), ch 5
4 tr cluster in same sp, ch 5 all around till 12 clusters, ss in top of cluster

5. Change color and ss into space, 6sc in each space

6. 3ch, 2dc, 3ch, 3dc all in same space (Corner made), *skip next st, 1dc in next, skip next, 1dc in next, till you have made 8dc, make a corner in next stitch (3dc 3ch, 3dc)* , repeat stars till 4 corners made and 8 dc take you to the end.( You have 3 spaces where you made the 6sc(row 5) where you are making the 8dc over these 3 and then you make your corner)
 (In other words You are making a cnr above the first petal, then you make 8dc over 2 more petals and above the 4th petal you make another cnr, then you make another 8 dc over the next 2 petals and above the 7th petal you make another cnr, make another 8dc over another 2 petals and above the 10th petal you make another corner and then make another 8dc till you get to the beginning cnr and you ss to the beg ch3)

Thursday, October 3, 2013

How to Crochet a Granny Square Bag



Hi there everyone
I hope you are all doing well.
Here is the pattern to the bag. I hope you enjoy making it.

THE VIDEO IS AT  http://curious.com/gillyscraftworld/how-to-crochet-a-square-granny-bag

HOW TO CROCHET A GRANNY SQUARE BAG

HOW TO CROCHET A GRANNY SQUARE BAG
Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 
Ch = chain,  * * =rep work all in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch

I used sugar and cream cotton (4 ply) they say to use a 6mm hook but I wanted mine to be a bit tighter together and not very lacy so I used a size 5 mm hook.
You can use any size yarn or hook, however you are wanting to make yours.

Beg Cnr = ch3, 2dc in same sp, ch2, 3dc in same sp
Corner = 3dc, ch2, 3 dc all in same sp
Not a corner = ch1, 3dc in same space

 ch4, ss into first st (white)
1. Ch3 (stands as 1st dc) 2dc into ring, ch2, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch2, 3dc in ring (you should have 4 sets of 3dc in the ring now), finish with ch2, ss into 3rd ch of beg ch3, change to new color. You can start in any corner. (white)
2.  Ss in any cnr with new color and ch3 (stands for 1st dc throughout), 2dc in same sp, ch2, 3dc in same sp = CORNER, you do this throughout pattern for all your corners, but when you don’t start with 3ch you do 1dc.  Repeat this for your 4 corners. This round is only corners! Ss into 3rd ch of 1st ch 3 made. (red)
3. Start with a ss in new color in any cnr. Ch3, 2dc in same sp, ch2, 3dc in same sp (Beg corner), ch1,* 3dc in next ch sp, ch1*, (this is for all the ch spaces that are not corners, Continue doing a corner and the 3dc in next ch sp, to end of round. (white)
4. Change color, Beg Cnr, Not a Corner (see abbreviations), not a corner, Corner, keep doing this till end of round. (red)
5. Keep  doing a round in the granny square pattern (red)
6. Keep doing a round (white)
7. Keep doing a round (white) This was my last round
8. Ch3, 1Tr, 1 dc in same sp, sc in the middle of the 3dc, *1dc, 1Tr, 1dc in the next ch sp, 1sc in the middle of the 3dc* repeat to end of the row
You can make yours bigger if you like.
Make another square like this one. I reversed my colors!

MAKING THE BAND
Ch8, skip 1st 3 and dc into the 4th ch from the hook,1 dc into each of the next 4ch to give you 6dc, ch2 and turn
*1dc in first dc, 1dc in each of the next 5dc, ch2 and turn* repeat until your strap is as long as you want it to be
Sew strap on from the bottom of the bag and on the wrong side (right sides facing each other)
To decorate the strap:
Right side of strap, where sewing stops join white yarn with a ss. 3ch (stands for your *1dc), 1tr, 1dc in same sp, 1sc in the next st*, repeat to end of strap
Try and spread it out evenly – basically you will be going into each of the dc’s which are lying horizontally

That is it and your bag is done!

Thursday, September 26, 2013

How to do Filet Crochet



Hi there,

I hope you are doing well and enjoying crocheting. This is the pattern to do the one heart.

FILET CROCHET – HEART PATTERN
Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 
Ch = chain,  * * = work all in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch

11 squares in pattern x 3 = 33 chain plus 1(for the end stitch) 3 for the turning chain and 2 for 2 chain in between which gives you a multiple of 39 chain.

An open square is:  1dc in the next dc, ch2, 1dc in the next dc – that gives you an open square
A closed square is: use the dc you made previously as the 1st st, then 2dc in the 2 ch space and 1dc in the next dc, that gives you a closed sp
So make a foundation chain of 39
Row 1: Dc into the 8th ch,  *ch2, skip 2, 1dc in the 3rd ch* rep till you have 11 squares, ch5 turn around
Row 2: 5 open squares, 4 closed, 2 open squares (for last dc, dc into the 3rd ch, ch5 and turn
Row 3: 2 open squares, 5 closed, 4 open, ch5 turn
Row 4: 3 open, 6 closed, 2 open, ch 5 turn
Row 5: 4 open, 5 closed, 2 open, ch5 turn
Row 6: 3 open, 6 closed, 2 open, ch5 turn
Row 7: 2 open, 5 closed, 4 open, ch5 turn
Row 8: 5 open, 4 closed, 2 open, ch 5 turn

Row 9: 11 open

See you next time!
Bye

Thursday, September 5, 2013

How to Knit a Hat in Colors



HOW TO KNIT A HAT IN COLORS




Hi there,
This video is very good for beginners as it only has a bit of decreasing and if you don't want to change colors you don't have to. I hope you enjoy making this. Here is the pattern!

STRIPED KNITTED HAT

Caron Simply Soft in: Red, pink, orange, yellow, green, pagoda, light blue
Size 8 circular needle, which is a 5mm
Knit = kn,  tog = together,  st = stitches
1.      Cast on 96 stitches, make sure all your stitches are facing the the right way, before you start knitting your first row. Remember to do your jogless join for all your color changes!

Knit red for 5 or 6 rows whichever you prefer or more and keep changing your colors until your hat is the length you like or it measures about 6 inches.

You want to do a jogless join because when you change colors you can see where you changed the colors there is like a jog between colors and we want to prevent that.

So to do the jogless join you knit one row in your new color and then on the next row you lift the “right v” of the stitch below up and stretch it onto the needle, and knit the 2 stitches together.

Now we need to decrease.
Once your work measures 6 inches from the bottom to where you are you can now start decreasing. I am on color 6 when I start decreasing about 30 -32 rows have been knit

Decrease by: decrease by slipping the next st onto the needle, knit the next st and then
pull the slipped st over the knitted one


Row 1:* K14, k2tog*, all the way around, make sure you decreased 6 times, ending with  k2tog and  90 stitches are left

Row 2: Knit

Row 3:* k7, decrease by slipping the next st onto the needle, knit the next st and then pull the slipped st over the knitted one, so* k7, decrease 1 st,* keep doing that till the end and you have 80 st

Row 4: knit

Row 5: *k6, decrease 1* like previous row, repeat to end – 70st left

Row 6: knit

Row 7: *k5, decr 1*, to end – 60 stitches
           
Row8: knit

Row 9:* k4, dec 1*, to end – 50 stitches

Row 10: knit
Row 11: knit (still 50 stitches)
Row 12: knit
Row 13: knit
Row 14: knit
Row 15: knit
Row 16: knit, cut your yarn (make it fairly long), to finish off


Row 17: push all your stitches to the left needle and take a yarning needle and working with 2 stitches at a time, pull the stitch behind, over the 1st one and thread the stitch onto the yarn, repeat to end.  Take yarn through hole and sew it away.


Thursday, August 15, 2013

How to Crochet a Bag

Hi there,
This is a bag I made and wanted to share with you. It is a fun over the shoulder bag. I hope you enjoy making it! Bye for now

How to Crochet a Bag
Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 
Ch = chain,  * * = work all in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch

Dc Cluster =  yo, hook into st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops on hook (2 loops left on hook), yo hook into st required to go into, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops on hook and then through all 3 loops left on hook


Dc 2 tog = yo, hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops (2 loops left), yo, hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops and then through all the rest.

Dc 3 tog  = yo, hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops (2 loops left), yo, hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops, yo hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops and through all st

Treble = yo hook 2 times, hook in to st, pull up a loop, draw hook through 2 loops, through 2 loops

Tr 2 tog =yarn around hook 2 times, hook into specified st, pull up a loop, draw hook through 2 loops, draw hook through 2 loops, yarn around hook 2 times, hook into specified st, pull up a loop, draw hook through 2 loops, draw hook through 2 loops, and through all the loops

Sc 2 Tog = hook into st bring up a loop, hook into next st, bring up a loop and then go thru all your stitches



I am using Red Heart Super Saver yarn and a 5.5mm crochet hook
And you need a long piece of ribbon (as long as you need your strap/band to be over your shoulder) it can be as wide as you want your band to be and when you crochet your band to go around it make sure your crocheted band is wider  than your ribbon, double the size

Ch 6, ss into 1st ch
1.    Ch3 (which stands as your 1st dc), 11 dc in ring = 12dc.  Ss into 3rd ch
2.    Ch3 to stand as your 1st dc.  Work 1dc in the same space as the ch3.  Work 2dc in each dc so you have 24dc all together including the ch3
3.    Ch3, 1dc in the same place, *1 dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc* rep to end, you should have 36dc, ss in 3rd ch
4.    *Ch9, sc in the 3rd and 4th ch from the hook, dc in each of the next 5ch.  Sc in the same stitch as you started the ch9. Sc in the next 6*, Repeat what is in between the stars
5.    *Sc in 1st ch,  2dc in each of the next 4st, sc in each of next 2st, sc, ch1, sc all in the tip, sc in the next 2 st, 2dc in each of the next 4 dc, sc in the next st, skip the next sc, 1sc in each of the next 5sc, skip the next sc* rep to end and skip your last st and sc in next one and end of yarn.

PART 2 OF BAG
6.     Start in any one of the tips and* sc in the middle of the ch3 with new color, ch 2, sc in the same stitch,
1 dc in each of  the next 6 st,
2dc in EACH of the next 3 st,
 sc in each of the the next 2 st,
 skip 1, 1sc in each of  the next 4,
 skip 1, 1sc in each of the next 2,
 2dc in EACH of the next 3,
 1dc in each of the next 6st up to the tip* and repeat all of this starting with sc in the tip
7.    *Sc in the tip,ch2, sc in the tip,
 1Dc in each of the next 12 st,
Dc 3 tog with the next 3 st, and Dc3tog with the next 3 st, Dc3 tog with the next 3 st,
1dc in each of the next 12st,  going up to the tip*, rep this
8.    *sc into tip( with new color),ch2, sc all in tip
1dc in each of the next 5 st,
1Tr in each of the next 5 st,
1dc in the next st, skip the next st and 1sc in next st
Dc2 tog, 1sc in next st, skip 1, 1dc in next st,
1Tr in each of the next 5 st,
1dc in each of the next 5 st*
9.    *Sc ,ch2, sc all in the tip
1dc in each of the next 10st,
Dc 2 tog in the next 2 st, Dc 2 tog in the next 2 st, Dc 2 tog in the next 2 st
1 dc in each of the next 10st going up to the tip* repeat to end

10.                       *Sc, ch2 sc all in the tip,
1sc in each of the next 7st,
1dc in each of the next 2st
Sc 2 tog in the next 2 st, Sc 2 tog in the next 2 st, and Sc 2 tog in the next 2 st,
1dc in each of the next 2 st,
1sc in each of the next 7st,
Sc, ch2, sc  all in the tip* repeat to end

11.*Sc, ch2, sc all in the tip,
    1ss in each of the next 5 st,
  1sc in each of the next 4 st
  1 Tr in each of the next 4 st
  1sc in each of the next 4 st* rep to end and finish with a ss in the     very first sc you made in the tip

Now you need to make another one exactly the same, maybe change your colors or however you want to!

When you have both your parts you can sew them together leaving one part open (one tip to one tip)

MAKING THE BAND
1.    Ch13,(or chain more depending on how wide you want your strap to be and you can follow my directions just add on how ever many more you added on – eg if you ch 15 you would still go into the 4th ch on the hook but you would add 2 to your 9 stitches and would do 11 dc instead of 9 giving you a total of 12dc instead of 10) 1dc in the 4th ch from the hook
1dc in each of the next 9ch = a total of 10dc including the first 3ch you skipped in the beg (when you went into the 4th ch from hook), ch3, turn
2.    1dc in each of the next 9 st (going into the first st and counting ch3 as one = 10dc)

Keep crocheting your strap as long as you want it to be.
Sew your ribbon in the middle of your strap and pull the two sides over into the middle and sew them together.


Sew the strap onto your bag where the opening is and whoala there you have your bag!