Friday, October 23, 2015


Here is my latest project. I hope you have fun creating this. If you find the fisherman's rib and the seed stitch too hard, feel free to use any stitch pattern you prefer.

                                                                  KNITTED BAG

Thursday, May 21, 2015

Knitted Cable Beanie



 Ravelry at

Friday, March 27, 2015


Here we have a knitted kimono and the pattern is on the video.
To make a different size you would:

The stitch pattern consists of 15 stitches plus 3. 
The amount of stitches that you cast on is going to give you half the length of the kimono (how long you want it to be Remember you will double it as you are joining 2 rectangles).The part that wraps around the body is the easiest part as that is the length you keep knitting so you can wrap one of the rectangles around as you are knitting and see if the length you are knitting fits around and just stop when it is how you want it.  So you will need to measure the child or baby from the neck down to how far down the body you want it to go, halve that measurement as you are making 2 rectangles and then make sure the amount of stitches you cast on will fit into that measurement. So if the child measures from the neck down about 15 inches you will have that to about 7 or 8 inches, work a swatch and see how many cables fit into 7 or 8 inches and cast on that amount. So if 2 cables fit in there you would cast on 15 stitches x 2 plus 3 so cast on 33 stitches. If 3 cables then 15 x 3 plus 3 so 48 stitches. I hope this isn't too confusing. Let me know if you need any more help :)

Friday, January 30, 2015


Free Knitting Pattern from Lion Brand Yarn
Pattern Number: L32301
SKILL LEVEL: Easy (Level 2)
SIZE: One Size
Finished Circumference About 28 in. (71 cm)
Finished Height About 8 in. (20.5 cm)

Cast on  126 sts.
• 825-212 Lion Brand
Amazing Yarn: Mauna Loa
 2 Balls
• Boye Aluminum Circular
Knitting Needles 16
inches Size 8
• Lion Brand Split Ring
Stitch Markers
• Lion Brand Large-Eye
Blunt Needles (Set of 6)
*Amazing® (Article #825). 53% Wool, 47%
Acrylic; package size: 1.75oz/50.00 gr.
(147yds/135m) pull skeins
16 sts + 22 rnds = 4 in. (10 cm) in St st worked in rnds (k every rnd).
When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern
and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in
the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from
person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a
smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.
Making a Gauge Swatch
Thermal Rib worked in rnds (over an even number of sts)
Rnd 1: Knit.
Rnd 2: *K1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for Thermal Rib worked in rnds.
Cowl is worked in one piece in the round.

COWL Cast on 126 sts. Place marker for beg of rnd. Join by working the first st on left hand needle with the
working yarn from the right hand needle and being careful not to twist sts.
Ribbed Edging
Rnd 1: *K1, p2; rep from * around.
Rnds 2-6: Rep Rnd 1.
Next Rnd: Beg with Rnd 1, work in Thermal Rib.
Continue in Thermal Rib until piece measures about 6 1/2 in. (16.5 cm) from beg, end with a Rnd 1 of
Thermal Rib as the last round you work.
Work Rnds 1-6 of Ribbed Edging.
Bind off in rib.
Weave in ends.

Friday, January 16, 2015



The numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.

dc = double crochet      *  *  rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet        st = stitch
ss = slip stitch               sp = space
ch = chain                      cnr = corner
Beg ch3 = 1dc                       picot = ch3, 1sc into the 1st ch
dc tog = double crochet together          Tr = treble, wrap yarn around hook twice

dtr (double treble) = wrap yarn around hook three times.



1.  I am using Premier Yarn which is a size 3 light, cotton. One skein is 136 yards and I am using 4 in black and white and 3 in the red. My crochet hook is a 3.75mm/F.
I used 4 skeins for the body and 2 skeins of red for the border.

2.  Ch10, ss into 1st ch

3. Ch3,* 4dc, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, in the ring* 3 times, 4dc, 1dtr, all in the ring, ss into 1st stitch.

4.  Ch 27, ss into the 11th ch from the hook, ch3, skip 3ch, ss into the 4th,
4dc into the ring, 1Tr, 1ss into the 6th ch,
1dtr in ring, 1tr, 4dc,
1tr, 1dtr,

5.  Ch2, turn work around, 1dc in the (row below)1st squares dtr (see video 11:30) 1ch, 1dc in the same place,
ch16, ss into the 10th ch from the hook (work still facing the wrong way), ch3, skip 3ch and ss into the 4th ch (leaving 2ch)
work still facing wrong way, just turn it so that you can work in the circle you just made,
4dc in the ring, 1tr in the ring, 1dtr into the dtr of the square below,
1dtr in the ring, 1tr in the ring, 4dc in the ring, 1tr, in ring, 1dtr in the ring,
1tr , 4dc, 1tr, 1dtr, 4dc, a 1tr, all in the ring, ss into beg of square

6.  1sc in each of the next 2ch, 1 picot, 1sc in the next 3ch, 1 picot, 1sc in each of the last 2ch,
1dtr in the next squares ring, 1tr, 4dc, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, 4dc, 1tr, ss into beg of square
You should have 3 squares now


BEGINNING SQUARE starting bottom row of squares

7.  Ch26, ss into the 10th ch from the hook, ch3, ss into the 4th ch,

8.  4dc in the ring, 1tr, 1ss into the middle of the ch to your left, 1dtr, 1tr in ring,  4dc, 1tr, 1dtr,
(joining onto bottom square - peak) ch2, turn work around to wrong side and 1dc, ch1, 1dc,  in the dtr of the square below,

Starting a new circle

9. Ch16, 1ss into the 6th ch from the bottom, (wrong side facing) ch3 and ss into the 4th ch, 4dc, 1tr, Joining onto bottom square again- valley,
2dc tog in the 2ch in between the 2 picots made, in square below
1dtr, 1tr, 4dc, 1tr, 1dtr, in the same circle as you were working in before joining,

10. joining onto bottom square - peak -  Ch2, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in the dtr of the square below
Repeat row 9 to end square and then do row 10

Ending Square and starting new row (top portion of square)

11. Ch16, 1ss into the 6th ch from the bottom, (wrong side facing) ch3 and ss into the 4th ch, 4dc, 1tr, 1dtr into the dtr in square below,(joining)
1dtr into ring, 1tr, 4dc, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, 4dc, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, 4dc, 1tr, ss into beg of square

Top Portion Row of squares

12. 1sc in each of the next 2ch, 1 picot, 1sc in the next 3ch, 1 picot, 1sc in each of the last 2ch,
1dtr in the next squares ring, 1tr, 4dc, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, 4dc, 1tr, ss into beg of square
Repeat row 12 to end square

ENDING SQUARE (Starting new bottom row)

13. You now repeat rows 7-12

14.  Finish your shawl with a bottom row only, so the edge is straight,

15. Ch3, dc across so work lays flat.

16. Corner of shawl 3dc, ch2, 3dc

17.  1dc in each dc ,Corner - 3dc ch2. 3dc in the ch sp, for the corners

18.  Back at beginning corner

19.  1dc, ch5, 1dc in same sp, skip 1 and repeat, corners do 3dc ch5 3dc

20. 1tr, 1picot (x5) in the same ch space, 1sc in the next ch sp, keep repeating this all the way around. Your corners might be different to mine but if you need to do 5tr in the ch space and then another 5tr in the next skipping the sc do that. Whichever makes your corner lay nicely.