Friday, April 25, 2014

HOW TO CROCHET A VINTAGE STYLE HAT


VINTAGE STYLE MOTIF HAT


dc = double crochet      *  *  rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet        st = stitch
ss = slip stitch               sp = space
ch = chain                      cnr = corner

A Double Treble
Yarn over hook three times, then insert hook into next stitch.
Yarn over hook and draw yarn through stitch (there are five loops on the hook).
Loop yarn over hook and draw through two loops (there are now four loops remaining on the hook).
Yarn over hook and draw through two loops (there are now three loops remaining on the hook).
Yarn over hook and draw through two loops (there are now two loops remaining on the hook).
Again, loop yarn over hook and draw through the last two loops on the hook (there is now one loop remaining.)

5dtr tog, leaving the last loop of each stitch on hook, you will have 5 stitches left on the hook and you yarn over and take them all off

We will be making 4 squares which we join for around the head and then the 5th square is slightly different for the top of the hat

Remember the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on this written pattern.
I am using a 3.75mm/F size hook. I am using Red Heart Fashion Crochet Thread in a size 3. I am using Scarlet, Copper Mist and Maize.

1. Using Maize color,  Ch 5, ss into the 1st ch to make a ring

2.  Ch3, 15dc in the ring = 16dc including the ch3

3.  Ss into the 1st ch, fasten yarn off and change colors to Copper Mist

4.  Make a slip knot and join in one of the dc with a sc, ch1, sc in the same place, *2sc in the next dc* repeat to end (32sc), Change colors and go into the back loop of the ch you had made and finish the ss with your new color (Maize)

5.  Ch5, 4dtr tog (the 1st one will be in the same stitch and the other 3 will be in the next 3 stitches) For all of these you are working in the back loop.
 Ch6, 5dtr tog in the next 4 stitches (the 1st one is always in the same stitch as the previous stitch), ch 7,
*5dtr tog in the next 4, ch 6,
 5dtr tog in the next 4, ch7* repeat between the asterix to the end = 8 petals, ss into the stitch above the 5dtr tog, cut off yarn. Change to your new color (Scarlet)

6.  Make a slip knot and sc into any 7ch sp,
ch4, 4sc in the same sp,
1sc above the 5tr tog, 7sc in the next ch sp, 1sc above next 5tr tog
*5sc, 1 picot (3ch and sc into 1st ch), in the next ch space, 4sc in the same ch space,
1sc in the 5tr tog, 7sc in the next ch sp,* repeat between the asterix ending with 5sc in next ch sp, ss into the picot ch sp

7.  Ch 5, 1dc, in the same picot you ss in,
*1dc in each of the sc going towards the next picot (17 dc),
1dc, 2ch, 1dc in the picot ch sp* repeat this ending with 17 dc, ss into the 2ch sp

8. On this round place a marker in all your corners and keep them there.
 Ch5, 1dc in same sp, 1ch,* 1dc in the next dc, 1ch, skip 1dc and 1dc into the next dc, 1ch* repeat this till you have 10dc before the next cnr, then for the corners you do 1dc, 2ch, 1dc in the same space, now do in between the asterix and the corner again until you complete the round ending with ch1 and ss into the 3rd ch

PART 2 - JOINING AND FINISHING OUR HAT

9.  If you find it too hard to join your squares by crocheting you can sew them together. You will be making 5 squares, 4 for around the head and the 5th one which is slightly different you will use on the top of the hat.
Make 1 complete square and then with your 2nd square you will join on the last rows of the square. You can do 1 or 2 sides (of that last row) and then on the next side start in the corner and join to the new square
The video will show you how to join the last motif but to join the first 3 motifs you use exactly the same process to join them but you are ony joining one side. ONLY the last motif (the 4th one) gets joined onto the first and the last motif
JOINING TECHNIQUE - Video is showing you the last motif but it is the same technique just joining one side

10.  So after you have done your 10th dc you, ch2,
 now to join one side to the other you start with this square and start with a corner and
 1dc, 1ch, 1sc in opp motif's cnr (come from under the square)ch1, 1dc again in the 1st motifs corner, ch1,
sc in opp motifs next ch space, ch1
1dc in 1st motifs 1st stitch, 1ch
1sc in opp motif, 1ch
now in the 1st motif you skip one and then do 1dc, ch1
*sc in opp motif, ch1
skip one on 1st motif, 1dc in the next and ch1*  repeat between the asterix till you have made your 10th dc on the 1st motif and ch1,
 then 1sc in the opp motif, ch1 and now you do 1dc, 1ch in the 1st motifs corner, 1sc in the opp motifs corner, ch1, 1dc into the 1st motifs same corner, ch1 (don't forget to finish that corner with 1dc)
then you go down the 1st motifs next side (remember to go into the 1st dc with 1dc, ch1) then you skip 1, 1dc, ch1, skip 1, 1dc ch1 etc and finish your square, by ss into the beg ch
Keep your markers in their place.

11. Joining the 4th motif to the 1st and 3rd motif.   You will do the same as above except do 1 side of 1st motif then join one side, then do the other side of the 1st motif and then join the last side together

12. For the very last join's ending

13. THE TOP MOTIF
For the 5th motif, all the rows are the same except on row 7, the dc becomes a double treble and the begining chain will be ch 7.

14. Row 8 stays the same except you are joining it onto the 4 other motifs

15. Joining the corners, You do the 1st dc in 1st motifs corner then you ch1, go into opp motifs corner bring up a loop, keep it on your hook, go into the opp motifs corner and bring up a loop, go through all 3 loops, ch1, finish 1st motifs corner, ch1, sc in opp motif and keep joining

16. Very last joining on top

BORDER AROUND HAT

17. Join yarn and start in anyone of the ch spaces, ch4, 1dc in next space, *ch1, 1dc in next ch sp* repeat this all the way around, finsh with a ch1 and ss into the 3rd ch (56 dc)

18. Ch1, 2sc in each ch sp all the way around and ss into the 1st ch1

19. Ch1, 1sc in each sc, all the way around and ss into the 1st ch1.

Do as many rows as you need. I did 3 rows and finished.