HOW TO CROCHET A SLEEVELESS JACKET PART 2

 Hi there,

This is part 2 of How to Crochet a Sleeveless Jacket.  I hope you are enjoying making this jacket so far and if you need any help feel free to ask me any questions.  The best is to work with the pattern and the video together!

On the video I say row 1 and row 2 but it is actually row 2 and row 3 – oops sorry!

PART 2 ARMHOLE

Continue straight with your pattern, all the way to your armhole until you feel the length is long enough

Finish with row 3 on the pattern and let’s start the armhole (leave the thread as a marker)

Count the number of chain spaces you have in the row and divide that in half, either 2 equal halves or one will have one more than the other.

The one half  is for the back and the other half is divided between the 2 fronts.

If you have say 25 ch spaces you can divide 13 for the back and 12 for the front (6 and 6 for the front) The front must have to equal amounts.

If you have 26 ch spaces you would have 13 for the back and 13 for the front but the 13 for the front doesn’t divide equally, so you would rather take 14 for the back and 12 (6 and 6) for the front.  Or you could do 12 for the back and divide the 14 (7 and 7).  I would probably do the larger number for the back.

With say 27 you would use 13 and 14 (here you would have to use the smaller number for the back as it is better than 15 for the back and only 12 for the front

As long as the front is divided equally, keeping your back and front ratio as close as you can.

Place a marker on the row you are now starting so that all the rows will be started on the same side and we are starting with the back. You will be starting with row 2 of the pattern

Working the Back

To leave a space under the arm, don’t crochet the last ch sp from the front and the last ch sp from the back (watch video) one ch space from the front and 1 ch space from the back, and start row 2

Work row 2 and leave the last ch sp of the back (for the other armhole) and turn around.

Do row 3 and continue straight on the back till length is good up to the neck. ( At end of row 3 be careful not to make an extra loop, because the last loop there, is where you sc in the t-ch)

Measure how long you want from the armhole to the neck

When your back reaches your neck, finish with row 2 as we will make a slight indentation for the neck. (one row less than the front) Don’t cut your yarn as we will come back and do one more row

First Front

Start on the first front where you left the thread.  Start with row 2 and remember not to work the last ch sp (with the marker), turn and do  row 3, continue till you feel you want to decrease for the neck (to make a slight v in the front centre) (or keep going straight if you don’t want to decrease till 1 row more than the back (we still had one more row to do on the back)) so end with row 3

If decreasing, you don’t want to decrease directly on the front middle edge so go in a few stitches and then decrease

I did one decrease and then I did a normal row and then I did another decrease (so I only made 2 decreases for my front edge and it worked out fine,

Keep doing row 2 and 3 till 1 row more than back (finishing with row 3) end off

Do other Front

Start other front and start with row 2, do your decreases as you did on the other front side (more or less in the same place) and continue doing rows 2 and 3 till this front is the same as other side.

Match your front and back together at the shoulder, and do the last row (row 3 on the back but only as far as the shoulder on the front. So don’t go all the way across.  You want the front shoulder and the back shoulder to match.

First front and Back – last row on back

Line the first front and back up at the shoulders and work row 3 on the back. At the end of row 3, ch 5 and Treble into middle of the next ch 5 space.  End off that side.

Second Front and Back – last row on back

Now finish the back with the other front at the shoulders.  You will be working the opposite way, from the centre to the end.  Count on the row below, on the front that you just finished, how many (sc, ch3, sc) you need for the front you are now doing, plus the one ch sp for the treble you used to finish off the other front. (watch video if you don’t understand).  You will start in the ch sp with ch4 to stand as the treble and ch 5 which you ended off with.  So you will be chaining  9 to start the other side and continue with row 3, finishing the back off.

Sew the front and back shoulders together or crochet them together.

I hope that you are able to follow this easily, it seems more complicated than what it really is!

Gill

HOW TO CROCHET A SLEEVELESS JACKET PART 1

Hi there 

I have decided to make a sleeveless jacket and thought I would show you how I did it.  There is no set pattern as we are all different sizes so I have given you the outline of how to make your own in your own size.  I hope you enjoy making this jacket.  You can make it in any color or colors and you can decrease or you can simply go straight all the way without any complications. 

Feel free to ask me if you don't understand something.

Have an awesome day

Gilly

Here is the link to my video on youtube 

SLEEVELESS JACKET

It is important to use the written pattern together with the video to fully understand how to crochet this jacket!

I used Caron yarn and a number 5.00mm hook

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 

Ch = chain,  * * = work all in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch,  repeat = rep, skip = sk,   sc in t chain = skip 2 ch and sc in the next ch at row end

Measure yourself at the widest part you would be covering (if garment is longer than your hips then measure your hips. If you are going up to your waist then use your waist unless you want it to be fuller) and make a chain the length of your measurement. If you like your garment looser you can add an extra 5ch or more if you want it really loose.  The stitch is a stretchy stitch and this is yarn not fabric so remember your garment will stretch so you don’t want to go too big.

  The chain needs to be in a multiple of 5 chain plus 2 ch

Example 60 chain plus 2

You will do your chain and follow the pattern stitch until you get to the armhole.  I decreased going up to my armhole (watch video) but you can go straight all the way till you have the length that you want.

Pattern Stitch

Row1:  Sc in 2^nd ch from hook, *ch5, sk 4ch, sc in next ch, rep from * across, turn

Row 2: Ch6, (sc, ch3, sc) in 1^st ch5 sp, *ch5, sk next sc, (sc, ch3, sc) in next ch5 sp, rep from * across to last ch5 sp, ch 2, tr in last sc, turn

Row 3: Ch1, sc in tr, *ch5, sk ch3 sp, (sc, ch3, sc) in next ch5 sp, rep from * across to last ch5 sp, ch5, sk ch3 sp, sc in t-ch , turn

Repeat row 2 and 3 to desired length (to under armhole)

DECREASE

Start row and depending on how many decreases you are doing depends on how many ch5 you make.  Get to where you ch5:   sc in the next ch5 space, (sc, ch3, sc) in the next 5ch sp – 2 loops have become 1  (watch decrease on video if unsure)

Part 2 will follow

HOW TO CROCHET EARRINGS

Hi there!

I decided to make some earrings as I had never made them before and they turned out really well.  I love wearing them and they look good, so I decided to share them with you and hope you feel the same way. So here is the link to my You Tube Channel and if you need any help feel free to ask me.  Have an awesome day!

EARRINGS

Made using Embroidery Thread and size 3.5mm hook

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 

Ch = chain,  * * = work all in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch

1.    Make a magic circle (with a ch1)

2.     sc in the ring, ch3 (x5) so you have 5 petals, ss into the 1^st sc

3.    Change colors here (I have a separate video showing you how to change colors) - Sc in the same sc, ch2,* ( dc in the ch3 space, ch2 -  do this parenthesis  x4 so you have 4dc, don’t include the ch2), sc in the 3^rd ch of the 3ch sp and sc in the 1^st ch of the next 3ch sp, ch2*, repeat that in between the stars so you have 5 completed petals

4.    Sc in 3^rd ch of the 3ch sp, but don’t end off yet we need to add our silver piece that goes into the ear

5.    The sc that you made, stretch it out so that you can thread that stitch into the hole in the silver hoop.  Keep that stitch and put hook into the stitch and ch1 and sc into the bottom of the 1^st petal.

How to Read a Pattern and Crochet a Lacy Stitch

Hi there,

I hope you are enjoying the different Patterns so far!  I am going to help you read a pattern in this video and crochet with you so you can understand how to follow a pattern.
Let me know if you have any questions!

Here is the written pattern and the link to my you tube channel -

OLD LACE STITCH

Multiple of 6 + 1 plus 5 chs

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 

Ch = chain,  * * = work all in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch

Row 1: Working on chain foundation, DC in 6^th ch from hook.

*Ch 5, skip 5 chs, work (DC, Ch2, DC) in next ch. Repeat from *across, Ch 5 Turn.

Row 2: DC under first ch 2, *Ch 2, SC under ch 5, Ch 2, work (DC, Ch 2, DC) under ch 2. Repeat from * across, working last (DC, Ch2, DC) under turning ch, Ch 5, Turn.

Row 3: DC under first ch 2, *Ch 5, work (DC, Ch 2, DC) under ch 2 between the next 2dc. Repeat from * across, working last (DC, Ch 2, DC) under turning ch. Ch 5, turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for pattern

Crochet a Cotton Beret

 Hi there,

This is one of my favorite projects I have made and am wanting to share it with you.  It is such a light weight beret and easy to wear.  This has part 1 and part 2!

The instructions and the video are below, so you can follow along, The intro has some bloopers for fun,  just click on the link
Hope you have fun!

I used the Red Heart Crochet Thread size 3 and  3.5mm hook.  The thread size 3 is the important part.
Part 1

Part 2

Cotton Beret

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 

Ch = chain,  * * = work all in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, rep = repeat, ss = slip stitch

Dc Cluster =  yo, hook into st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops on hook (2 loops left on hook), yo hook into st required to go into, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops on hook, do this to all 5dc, after the 5^th dc yo and pull yarn thru all 6 stitches at once (except beg 5dc cluster which is 5 st)

2Tr cluster = yo twice, hook into st required, pull up a loop, yo, and draw hook thru 2 st, yo and thru 2 st, do this process into the next required st and then yo and pull through all 3 loops at end

I used the Red Heart Crochet Thread size 3 and  3.5mm hook.  The thread size 3 is the important part not the make.

1.     Ch3, ss in 1^st ch to form a ring

2.    Ch5 (which stands as 1dc, ch2), *1dc in the ring, 2ch* rep in the stars till you have 8dc, end with the 2ch and ss in the 3^rd ch of beginning ch5

3.    Ss into 1^st 2ch sp, Ch 7 (which stands for 1dc, ch4) *1dc, ch4 in next sp* rep till end (8dc) ending with ch4

4.    Ss in the 3^rd ch, ss in the 1^st ch4 sp, ch3 sc in the same ch sp, ch3 sc in the dc,* ch3 sc in next ch sp, 3ch sc in the dc*, rep to end finishing with ss in the 1^st ch sp (so including that 1^st ch sp you should have 17 ch3 spaces)
( when you make the sc into the last ch sp, make another ch3 and a sc into the "dc" below, and then make another ch3 and ss into the 1st ch sp) THIS IS THE ENDING SUMMARIZED

5.    Ch3 (1^st dc) 3dc in same ch sp, *4dc in each ch sp* (17x4 = 68dc)rep to end, ss into 3^rd ch of 1^st ch of the ch 3

6.    Ch3 (standing for 1^st dc) 1 dc in each of the next 3dc, ch1, *1dc in each of  the next 4dc ch1* repeat to end ending with ch1 and ss in the 3rd  ch of the ch3

7.    3ch (1^st dc) 1dc in next dc, 2dc in the next 1dc, 1dc in next dc (=5dc in the 4dc,  you increased) ch2, *5dc in the 4dc ch2*rep to end, ending with ch2 and ss in the 3^rd ch

8.    Ch3, 1 dc in each of the next 4dc, ch2, *1dc in each of the next 5dc, ch2* rep to end ending with ch2, ss in 3^rd ch

9.    Ch3, 1dc in each of the next 4dc, ch3, *1dc in each of the next 5dc, ch3* rep to end ending with ch3 and ss into the 3^rd ch

10.                       Ch3, 1dc in each of the next 4dc, ch4, *1dc in each of the next 5dc, ch4* rep to end ss in 3^rd ch

11.                       Ch3, 1dc in each of the next 4dc, 5ch, * 1dc in each of the        next 5d, ch5* rep to end ending with ss in 3^rd ch

12.  Rows 12 thru 18 do the same as row 11 (this forms the   fullness of your beret, so you can do more or less if you like)

 19.   Ch 3, 1dc in each of the next 4dc, *ch1 3sc in the 5ch sp, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 5dc* rep to end ending with ch1, 3sc ch1, ss in 3^rd ch

20.  ch3, 1dc in each of the next 4dc, 1ch 1sc in each of the next 3sc, ch1, *1dc in each of the next 5dc, ch1, 1sc in each of the next 3sc, ch1* to end ending with ch1 1sc in next 3sc, ch1, ss in 3^rd ch

21.  ch3, 1dc in each of the next 4dc, *ch3, 1sc in each of the next 3sc, 3ch, 1dc in each of next 5dc* rep, ending with ch3, 1sc in each of the next 3sc, ch3, ss in 3^rd ch

22.  ch3, 5 dc cluster, ch4, 1sc in each of next 3sc, ch 4, *5dc cluster, ch4, 1sc in each of the next 3sc, ch4* repeat to end ending with ch4, 1sc in each of the next 3sc, ch4, ss into the top of the 5dc cluster

23.  *ch5, 2Tr cluster in the middle of the 1^st 4ch sp and in the middle of the 2^nd 4ch sp, ch5, sc into top of the 5dc cluster* rep till back at the ch5 made in the beginning and ss into the 3^rd ch

24.  ch3(counts as first dc), 2dc in the 1^st ch sp, *3dc in the next ch sp* rep this all around to end and ss in the 3^rd ch

25.  ch 3, 1dc in the next dc, *The 3dc from previous round is now reduced to 2dc so do 2dc over the next 3dc* all the way around, ss in the 3^rd ch

26.  sc in each dc all the way around

27.  If you want it tighter, ss in each sc all the way around

Let me know if you have any struggles!

Enjoy your day

Gill

Natural Carbonated Soda's part 1

I absolutely love the carbonation in soda's.  I think I have figured out why.  Keep reading and I will let you know my findings!

Okay, so, I have ordered 3 different cultures (no, not people, lol) cultures as in eating and drinking.

I have ordered Kombucha culture, Water Kefir Grains, and Milk Kefir Grains.  What on earth is that, you may ask.

 Well the Kombucha culture is a living organism that you add tea and sugar to and it grows and makes you a delicious drink.  You have to let it sit on your kitchen cabinet for a day or so and it produces all natural probiotics and yeasts that your body needs.  Gives you a healthy flora in your stomach. This is what it looks like. I always tell people you can't say you don't like it until you try it.  This actually gets to have some fizz like  carbonated soda as well.  There are many different recipes you can try out to make different flavors.

So the reason I was saying I love carbonation is that I am probably needing to get my inner flora more balanced. When you take antibiotics, or just eating in our society now a days, you unbalance your flora inside and need the good bacteria and yeasts to balance you.  This is one way that you can do it.  I will post more on the milk kefir and water kefir later on.  The water kefir can be very carbonated when you make the drink and add your syrup and let it sit on the counter for a few days.  It gets really fizzy.  I will continue with this post on another article.  This is part 1 and the others will be part 2 etc.  I also made a sourdough bread starter from scratch and I made mine gluten free.  I haven't tried it in normal flour but will keep you posted. Have you ever heard of a niacin flush, oh my goodness I took niacin (vit b3) and gosh it was quite and experience - motto of that story is I need to start slooooooowww (take less initially) will tell you about that as well!

Well will get back to my blog later this week and keep you updated on my Healthy Home!

CROCHET A SUNFLOWER GRANNY SQUARE

This is a nice variation of the ever so popular granny square.  I love different granny squares as there is so much that you can do with them.  I also love doing them in many different colors to spice things up a bit.  I am a color fan and the more colors the better.  Of course that is me and everyone is so different, which makes the world an interesting place. Anyway the pattern is below and the video link is below as well.  Remember to Have Fun Crocheting!

SUNFLOWER GRANNY SQUARE

Sc = single crochet,  Dc = double crochet,  Sp = space,  Tr = treble,  St = stitch, 

Ch = chain,  * * = work all in between the stars,  Tog = together,  yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch

Caron Simply Soft: Brown, Yellow, Green and Navy (whichever colors you like)

Hook size 5.5mm H/8

Square size is 4 by 4 in

1.     Ch4, ss into 1^st ch

2.     Ch3, 15dc in the ring, ss into 3^rd ch (of beg ch3) finish off = 16dc (change color)

3.     Join yarn in any dc , Ch4 (counts as dc ch1 for all rounds in beg), dc, ch1 in each of the next 15dc which will give us 16dc, ch1’s (including the ch4 in the beg) finish off and add new color in any ch1 sp

4.     Ch3, 2dc , ch1, 3dc all in the same sp, skip the next ch1 sp and do 3dc in the next ch1 sp, skip next ch1 sp * 3dc, ch1, 3dc in next ch1 sp, skip next ch1 sp, 3dc in next ch1 sp, skip next ch1 sp,* repeat to end, ss to first dc, finish off, change color by joining any corner ch1 sp

5.     Ch3, 2dc,ch1, 3dc in same sp,* 3dc in the next sp, 3dc in the next sp, 3dc ch1 3dc ch1 in next sp* repeat this to end, ss in 3^rd ch of beg ch3, finish off