This afghan is for sale at ravelry at https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/patchwork-afghan-9
This blog is all about learning how to crochet and knit for beginners and for more advanced crocheters and knitters. This is also about oil and watercolor painting. This blog is about inspiration and creativity. Maybe some health and spiritual tips as well.
Wednesday, March 13, 2019
Monday, March 11, 2019
KNIT FLOWER BEANIE IN THE ROUND
THIS KNITTED PATTERN IS FOR SALE ON RAVELRY.COM AT https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/flower-beanie-6
Sunday, December 10, 2017
Crochet Complete Course Lesson 1
Hi guys this is lesson 1 to an 11 part series on how to crochet. I hope you enjoy it :)
Friday, December 9, 2016
CROCHET A FREE FORM TOP NO PATTERN REQUIRED 10 PARTS
FREE FORM CROCHET
Choose what template you are going to use,
whether it is a sewing pattern, a top that you have cut out, or a top that you
are going to crochet on top of.
Then you need to decide what yarn and hook you
are wanting to use for your project.
I am use Peaches and Cream Cotton in white, which
is a medium size 4, and a size 6.5mm crochet hook which is bigger than required
but I want a looser, lacy look.
I am also using embroidery cotton with a size
2.75mm crochet hook.
I am using a little hook to sew onto the bracelet
to hook onto the other side
picot = 3ch, 1sc into the 1st ch
Once you have decided on what yarn you are using
and you have your pattern ready you can start crocheting. Start anywhere on
your pattern and take the plunge and just go for it. You can start with the motif I am using and
then branch out, or you can start your own design. You just have to start
somewhere and do whatever stitches you feel like. You can turn your work around
and work on the other side, you can go up a side and down a side you can make a
long chain and work back on it. You can make a circle and then branch out from
there. You can start a straight row and then branch out and go in whichever
direction you are wanting to.
Once you feel you are ready to pin it onto your
pattern you can go ahead and pin it on (it is just easier working without it
pinned onto your pattern initially) Just make sure that you don't go too big
and that you have worked past the borders of your pattern. If you did then you
can use the one side and fold the other side and use it on the other side.
Once you have pinned it onto the pattern you can
work a piece and then pin that piece on and then continue working and pinning
as you go. Staying in your borders complete one side and then you can either
turn over your pattern and work the other side and then sew your sides together
or you can do it the way I show you in the lesson where you work the other side
onto the 1st side all in one go.
Once you have completed the whole garment you can
take the pins out.
dc = double crochet *
* rep what is in between the
stars
sc = single crochet st =
stitch
ss = slip stitch sp =
space
ch = chain cnr =
corner
REMEMBER - the numbers on the video correspond to
the numbers on the written pattern.
FLOWER MOTIF
1. Ch6, ss
into the 1st stitch, ch1, 12sc in the ring, ss into the 1st ch
2. Ch3, 1dc in next st,* ch5, 1dc in each of the
next 2 st* repeat between stars until you have 6 petals, ending with ss into
the first ch of the beg ch3 you made. 2ss between the 2dc you had made and 1ss
into the ch space
3. * ch3, 4dc in that 1st ch sp, 1 picot, 4dc in
same ch sp, ss into the next ch sp* repeat between the stars to the end and ss
to the beg st
ABSTRACT MOTIF
1. Ch 5,
ss into 1st ch
2. Ch3,
8dc in the circle = 9dc, ss into the top of the ch3
3. Ch3,
skip 1dc and 1dc into the next, *ch2, 1dc in the next st,* rep between stars
ending with a ss into the top of the ch3
4. Ch3,
1dc in the first space, ch2,* 2dc, 2ch* repeat to end, ss to beg ch3
5. Ch3,
2dc in the middle of the 2dc, *ch2, 3dc in the middle of the next 2dc* to end,
ending with a ch2 and ss into beg stitch
6. Ch3,
1dc in the next dc, *4ch, 1dc in the next dc
Before you start your border you will want to
fold your work in half, sleeve to sleeve so you can see if your sides are
equal. If you find that your sides are not equal or the neck is not equal on
both sides, you can join in your yarn and add more stitches until you match the
two sides and you are basically even.
Then you can start your border. You can make any
type of border you want to. You can make a very uneven border or a bit more
precise as I have done. Try your garment
on to make sure you are making your border the way you want it to be. You might
want to do more than one row to bring it in more or you might just want one
row.
BORDER - right side of work facing you
You can find the half way point on your neck and
make sure that you have the same amount of stitches on the one side versus the
other to give you an equal neck border.
7. Ch4,
*1dc, ch1* repeat this all the way around, using your initiative as to having
them spaced out equally and that your work is not pulling and is laying
flat. Feel free to do whatever you want
to here. You can use hdc or you can do 3dc and then ch1 etc this is free form
and you can do what you are wanting to as there is no pattern to follow.
8. Reverse Single Crochet the next row. Ch1,* 1sc
backwards in 1st ch sp, 1sc backwards in the same place*
9. The sleeve borders are done the same way as
the neck border. Remember that you need to make sure that both sleeves have the
same amount of stitches on them to have your two sleeves equal
10. To start your border at the bottom of your
garment you want to find the spot under the armhole and then go down from there
to the edge where you will start your border.
Ch4, stretch your ch so that it lays flat and
then sc in to the stitch where the ch 4 is laying flat, so ch4, 1sc all the way
around and ss into the 1st ch sp.
11. Ch3, 2dc in the same place, ch4, picot (sc
into the 1st ch of the ch4), 3dc in the same ch sp, *3dc, ch 4 sc into the 1st
ch, 3dc all in the same space, 1sc in the next sp
BRACELET
Embroidery Floss, and a 2.75mm crochet hook
We are doing our bracelet in rows and we are
keeping the same amount of stitches the whole way. This is very important else
you will end up with an odd shape.
12. crochet 12 ch plus 1 to turn
13. Skip
the 1st ch and 1sc in each of the next 12ch (go loosely)
14. Ch3,
turn your work around, 1dc in each of the next 12 stitches, changing your color
in last stitch
15. Ch3,
turn work around and start free forming
BORDER for bracelet
16. 4dc tog, ch2, repeat this around keeping them
fairly equal
FLOWER FOR BRACELET
17. Ch5, ss into the 1st ch, forming a ring. ch1, 10sc in the ring, ss into the 1st st
18. *Ch3, 2dc in the same place, ch3, ss into the
next st, ss into the next st*, repeat in between the stars till you have 5
petals. Ss into last st and finish off
Friday, March 11, 2016
HOW TO CROCHET OR KNIT A POCKET ONTO A SCARF
Hi there, I would like to show you how to crochet or to knit a pocket onto a scarf.
Saturday, February 20, 2016
LACY INTERRUPTED V STITCH
Hi there, this is a great stitch to crochet with :)
Abbreviations:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- sp = space
- ch-3 sp = the space created by working 3 chain stitches
- st = stitch
V Stitch Definition
Work 1 dc st, 1 ch st, and 1 more dc st. In row 1, all 3 of these sts will be worked in the same chain. In rows 2 and up, they will all be worked in the same space.
Note that there are quite a few variations of the V stitch, so you might encounter other patterns that define a V stitch differently.
Stitch Instructions - Solid Versions:
Use these instructions for crocheting pieces similar to versions A, B or C pictured above.
The starting chain is a multiple of 4 + 9. Crochet your starting chain.
Row 1: DC in 4th ch from hook, (ch 1, skip next 3 chs, V-st in 4th ch from hook.) Repeat sequence in parentheses all the way across the row. When you get to the end of the row, work a dc in each of the last 2 chs.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn.
Sc in each of the first 2 dc sts. (Sc in ch-1 space, sc in next V-st, ch 3, sc in same V-st.) Repeat sequence in parentheses all the way across the row. When you get to the end of the row, sc in the last ch-1 space, then work 1 sc in each of the last 2 sts.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn.
Skip the first sc; the turning chain counts as the first dc. Dc in next sc. (Ch 1, V-st in next ch-3 space.) Repeat sequence in parentheses all the way across the row. When you get to the end of the row, ch 1, then work 1 dc in each of the last 2 sts.
Row 4: Repeat row 2.
Row 5: Repeat row 3.
Continue repeating rows 2 and 3 as many times as desired.
Friday, February 19, 2016
HOW TO SEW AND CROCHET SQUARES TOGETHER
In this video I will be showing you how to sew or crochet your granny squares together while making a quick headband at the same time.
HOW TO CROCHET A
GRANNY SQUARE
dc = double crochet *
* rep what is in between the
stars
sc = single crochet st =
stitch
ss = slip stitch sp =
space
ch = chain cnr =
corner
The numbers on here correspond to the numbers on the video
1. ch4, ss into the first ch you
made
2. ch3, 2dc in the ring, ch2, *3dc
in the ring, ch2* x3 (so you have 4 sets of 3dc) ss into top of ch3
3. Either, ss over the next 2 st,
and ss into the ch2 space or cut yarn and end that color off and restart in the
ch2 space.
Ch 3, 2dc , ch2, 3dc all in the same ch2 space, *3dc, ch2, 3dc all in the
next ch2 sp* x3 which will give you 4 corners. Ss into the ch3, and ss across
to the ch2 space
corner = 3dc, ch2, 3dc in the same space
4. Ch3, 2dc, ch2, 3dc in same space, *ch1, 3dc in the next sp, ch1, corner
in the next space* rep to end ending with ss into 3rd ch
5. Ch3, 2dc, ch2, 3dc in the same space, *ch1, 3dc in the next sp, ch1, 3dc
in the next sp, ch1, cnr in the next space*,rep to end ending with ss into 3rd
ch
6. You will repeat row 5 over and over increasing the amount of ch1, 3dc,
ch1 for each round.
Thursday, February 11, 2016
CROCHET A GORGEOUS TOP WITH HOODIE
Hi there everyone, this is my latest creation. A crocheted top with a hoodie. Part 1 and Part 2
Thanks for watching and creating.
PART 1
Thanks for watching and creating.
PART 1
PART 2
Saturday, January 16, 2016
KNITTED FAIR ISLE BEANIE
Hi there, here is a cute knitted fair isle beanie I created :)
THIS IS PART 1
and PART 2 The Pattern is on the video
THIS IS PART 1
and PART 2 The Pattern is on the video
Friday, October 23, 2015
KNITTED PINK BAG
Here is my latest project. I hope you have fun creating this. If you find the fisherman's rib and the seed stitch too hard, feel free to use any stitch pattern you prefer.
KNITTED BAG
KNITTED BAG
Friday, July 17, 2015
Friday, June 12, 2015
Thursday, May 21, 2015
Knitted Cable Beanie
KNITTED CABLE BEANIE
THIS PATTERN IS FOR SALE AT RAVELRY AT
Ravelry at http://www.ravelry.com/people/gillyscraftworld
Friday, March 27, 2015
KNITTED CABLED KIMONO
Here we have a knitted kimono and the pattern is on the video.
To make a different size you would:
The stitch pattern consists of 15 stitches plus 3.
The amount of stitches that you cast on is going to give you half the length of the kimono (how long you want it to be Remember you will double it as you are joining 2 rectangles).The part that wraps around the body is the easiest part as that is the length you keep knitting so you can wrap one of the rectangles around as you are knitting and see if the length you are knitting fits around and just stop when it is how you want it. So you will need to measure the child or baby from the neck down to how far down the body you want it to go, halve that measurement as you are making 2 rectangles and then make sure the amount of stitches you cast on will fit into that measurement. So if the child measures from the neck down about 15 inches you will have that to about 7 or 8 inches, work a swatch and see how many cables fit into 7 or 8 inches and cast on that amount. So if 2 cables fit in there you would cast on 15 stitches x 2 plus 3 so cast on 33 stitches. If 3 cables then 15 x 3 plus 3 so 48 stitches. I hope this isn't too confusing. Let me know if you need any more help :)
The amount of stitches that you cast on is going to give you half the length of the kimono (how long you want it to be Remember you will double it as you are joining 2 rectangles).The part that wraps around the body is the easiest part as that is the length you keep knitting so you can wrap one of the rectangles around as you are knitting and see if the length you are knitting fits around and just stop when it is how you want it. So you will need to measure the child or baby from the neck down to how far down the body you want it to go, halve that measurement as you are making 2 rectangles and then make sure the amount of stitches you cast on will fit into that measurement. So if the child measures from the neck down about 15 inches you will have that to about 7 or 8 inches, work a swatch and see how many cables fit into 7 or 8 inches and cast on that amount. So if 2 cables fit in there you would cast on 15 stitches x 2 plus 3 so cast on 33 stitches. If 3 cables then 15 x 3 plus 3 so 48 stitches. I hope this isn't too confusing. Let me know if you need any more help :)
Thursday, February 12, 2015
Friday, January 30, 2015
KNITTED COWL
Free Knitting Pattern from Lion Brand Yarn
Pattern Number: L32301
SKILL LEVEL: Easy (Level 2)
SIZE: One Size
Finished Circumference About 28 in. (71 cm)
Finished Height About 8 in. (20.5 cm)
COWL
Cast on 126 sts.
MATERIALS
• 825-212 Lion Brand
Amazing Yarn: Mauna Loa
2 Balls
• Boye Aluminum Circular
Knitting Needles 16
inches Size 8
• Lion Brand Split Ring
Stitch Markers
• Lion Brand Large-Eye
Blunt Needles (Set of 6)
*Amazing® (Article #825). 53% Wool, 47%
Acrylic; package size: 1.75oz/50.00 gr.
(147yds/135m) pull skeins
GAUGE:
16 sts + 22 rnds = 4 in. (10 cm) in St st worked in rnds (k every rnd).
When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern
and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in
the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from
person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a
smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.
Making a Gauge Swatch
STITCH EXPLANATION:
PATTERN STITCH
Thermal Rib worked in rnds (over an even number of sts)
Rnd 1: Knit.
Rnd 2: *K1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for Thermal Rib worked in rnds.
NOTES:
Cowl is worked in one piece in the round.
COWL Cast on 126 sts. Place marker for beg of rnd. Join by working the first st on left hand needle with the
working yarn from the right hand needle and being careful not to twist sts.
Ribbed Edging
Rnd 1: *K1, p2; rep from * around.
Rnds 2-6: Rep Rnd 1.
Next Rnd: Beg with Rnd 1, work in Thermal Rib.
Continue in Thermal Rib until piece measures about 6 1/2 in. (16.5 cm) from beg, end with a Rnd 1 of
Thermal Rib as the last round you work.
Work Rnds 1-6 of Ribbed Edging.
Bind off in rib.
FINISHING
Weave in ends.
Pattern Number: L32301
SKILL LEVEL: Easy (Level 2)
SIZE: One Size
Finished Circumference About 28 in. (71 cm)
Finished Height About 8 in. (20.5 cm)
COWL
Cast on 126 sts.
MATERIALS
• 825-212 Lion Brand
Amazing Yarn: Mauna Loa
2 Balls
• Boye Aluminum Circular
Knitting Needles 16
inches Size 8
• Lion Brand Split Ring
Stitch Markers
• Lion Brand Large-Eye
Blunt Needles (Set of 6)
*Amazing® (Article #825). 53% Wool, 47%
Acrylic; package size: 1.75oz/50.00 gr.
(147yds/135m) pull skeins
GAUGE:
16 sts + 22 rnds = 4 in. (10 cm) in St st worked in rnds (k every rnd).
When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern
and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in
the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from
person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a
smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.
Making a Gauge Swatch
STITCH EXPLANATION:
PATTERN STITCH
Thermal Rib worked in rnds (over an even number of sts)
Rnd 1: Knit.
Rnd 2: *K1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for Thermal Rib worked in rnds.
NOTES:
Cowl is worked in one piece in the round.
COWL Cast on 126 sts. Place marker for beg of rnd. Join by working the first st on left hand needle with the
working yarn from the right hand needle and being careful not to twist sts.
Ribbed Edging
Rnd 1: *K1, p2; rep from * around.
Rnds 2-6: Rep Rnd 1.
Next Rnd: Beg with Rnd 1, work in Thermal Rib.
Continue in Thermal Rib until piece measures about 6 1/2 in. (16.5 cm) from beg, end with a Rnd 1 of
Thermal Rib as the last round you work.
Work Rnds 1-6 of Ribbed Edging.
Bind off in rib.
FINISHING
Weave in ends.
Friday, January 16, 2015
CROCHETED SHAWL/SCARF Parts 1 & 2
CROCHETED SHAWL/SCARF
dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet st = stitch
ss = slip stitch sp = space
ch = chain cnr = corner
Beg ch3 = 1dc picot = ch3, 1sc into the 1st ch
dc tog = double crochet together Tr = treble, wrap yarn around hook twice
dtr (double treble) = wrap yarn around hook three times.
PART 1
1. I am using Premier Yarn which is a size 3 light, cotton. One skein is 136 yards and I am using 4 in black and white and 3 in the red. My crochet hook is a 3.75mm/F.
I used 4 skeins for the body and 2 skeins of red for the border.
2. Ch10, ss into 1st ch
3. Ch3,* 4dc, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, in the ring* 3 times, 4dc, 1dtr, all in the ring, ss into 1st stitch.
4. Ch 27, ss into the 11th ch from the hook, ch3, skip 3ch, ss into the 4th,
4dc into the ring, 1Tr, 1ss into the 6th ch,
1dtr in ring, 1tr, 4dc,
1tr, 1dtr,
5. Ch2, turn work around, 1dc in the (row below)1st squares dtr (see video 11:30) 1ch, 1dc in the same place,
ch16, ss into the 10th ch from the hook (work still facing the wrong way), ch3, skip 3ch and ss into the 4th ch (leaving 2ch)
work still facing wrong way, just turn it so that you can work in the circle you just made,
4dc in the ring, 1tr in the ring, 1dtr into the dtr of the square below,
1dtr in the ring, 1tr in the ring, 4dc in the ring, 1tr, in ring, 1dtr in the ring,
1tr , 4dc, 1tr, 1dtr, 4dc, a 1tr, all in the ring, ss into beg of square
6. 1sc in each of the next 2ch, 1 picot, 1sc in the next 3ch, 1 picot, 1sc in each of the last 2ch,
1dtr in the next squares ring, 1tr, 4dc, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, 4dc, 1tr, ss into beg of square
You should have 3 squares now
REPEAT THIS LOT BELOW
BEGINNING SQUARE starting bottom row of squares
7. Ch26, ss into the 10th ch from the hook, ch3, ss into the 4th ch,
8. 4dc in the ring, 1tr, 1ss into the middle of the ch to your left, 1dtr, 1tr in ring, 4dc, 1tr, 1dtr,
(joining onto bottom square - peak) ch2, turn work around to wrong side and 1dc, ch1, 1dc, in the dtr of the square below,
Starting a new circle
9. Ch16, 1ss into the 6th ch from the bottom, (wrong side facing) ch3 and ss into the 4th ch, 4dc, 1tr, Joining onto bottom square again- valley,
2dc tog in the 2ch in between the 2 picots made, in square below
1dtr, 1tr, 4dc, 1tr, 1dtr, in the same circle as you were working in before joining,
10. joining onto bottom square - peak - Ch2, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in the dtr of the square below
Repeat row 9 to end square and then do row 10
Ending Square and starting new row (top portion of square)
11. Ch16, 1ss into the 6th ch from the bottom, (wrong side facing) ch3 and ss into the 4th ch, 4dc, 1tr, 1dtr into the dtr in square below,(joining)
1dtr into ring, 1tr, 4dc, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, 4dc, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, 4dc, 1tr, ss into beg of square
Top Portion Row of squares
12. 1sc in each of the next 2ch, 1 picot, 1sc in the next 3ch, 1 picot, 1sc in each of the last 2ch,
1dtr in the next squares ring, 1tr, 4dc, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, 4dc, 1tr, ss into beg of square
Repeat row 12 to end square
ENDING SQUARE (Starting new bottom row)
13. You now repeat rows 7-12
BORDER
14. Finish your shawl with a bottom row only, so the edge is straight,
15. Ch3, dc across so work lays flat.
16. Corner of shawl 3dc, ch2, 3dc
17. 1dc in each dc ,Corner - 3dc ch2. 3dc in the ch sp, for the corners
18. Back at beginning corner
19. 1dc, ch5, 1dc in same sp, skip 1 and repeat, corners do 3dc ch5 3dc
20. 1tr, 1picot (x5) in the same ch space, 1sc in the next ch sp, keep repeating this all the way around. Your corners might be different to mine but if you need to do 5tr in the ch space and then another 5tr in the next skipping the sc do that. Whichever makes your corner lay nicely.
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