This blog is all about learning how to crochet and knit for beginners and for more advanced crocheters and knitters. This is also about oil and watercolor painting. This blog is about inspiration and creativity. Maybe some health and spiritual tips as well.
Remember the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on this written pattern.
I am using Bernat Handicrafter Crochet Thread which is a size 5 thread and I am using a size 1.80mm crochet hook.
dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet st = stitch
ss = slip stitch sp = space
ch = chain cnr = corner
Beg ch3 = 1dc Tr = treble
dc tog = double crochet together Picot = ch3, 1sc in the 1st ch
PATTERN
1. Ch10, ss into the 1st ch,
2. Ch3 (stands as 1st dc), 13dc in the ring = 14dc - make your last dc in the actual chain (watch video)
3. Ch4, turn your work around, skip 1st st, 1dc in the next st, *1ch, 1dc in the next st* repeat in the stars ending with 14dc,
4. Ch 5, turn your work around, 1dc in the 1st dc,* ch2, 1dc in the next dc*, to end, ending with 14dc,
5. Ch3, turn your work, 3dc in the ch sp,* ch2, skip the next ch sp, 4dc in the next ch sp* to the end (ending with 7 of the 4dc groups and ending with your 4dc in the last ch sp)
6. ch6, turn work around, 4dc in the ch sp, *3ch, 4dc in the ch sp* repeat to the end ending with 3ch and 1dc into the last dc of previous round.
7. ch1, turn your work around, 4sc in the ch sp and 1sc in the first st, *ch3, 1dc in the next dc, 1 picot (ch3, 1sc in the 1st ch), 1dc in the next dc, ch3, 1sc in the last dc, 3sc in the ch sp, 1sc in the 1st dc* to the end, ending with your 5sc
8. 8ch, turn your work around, 1Tr into the same sp, turn your work around, ch3, 13dc in the ch space (= 14dc) 1sc in the dc (below) ch1, 1sc in the bottom of the dc,
9. ch1, turn your work around, 1dc in the 1st dc, *ch1, 1dc in the next dc* rep to end (14dc)
10. ch5, turn your work around, 1dc in the 1st dc, *ch2, 1dc in the next dc* repeat to end
11. ch1, 1sc into the side, ch1, 1sc into the side, turn your work around, 3dc in the ch sp, *ch2, skip one ch sp and 4dc in the next ch sp* to end ( = 7, 4dc clusters)
12. ch6, turn your work around, 4dc in the 1st ch, sp, *ch3, 4dc in the next ch sp* rep to the end, (this gives you, x6 dc sets) ending with ch3, 1dc in the last stitch, sc into the "circle" (to attach your work)
13. ch1, turn your work around, 4sc in the ch sp and 1sc in the first st, *ch3, 1dc in the next dc, 1 picot (ch3, 1sc in the 1st ch), 1dc in the next dc, ch3, 1sc in the last dc, 3sc in the ch sp, 1sc in the 1st dc* to the end, ending with your 5sc
MAKING YOUR SECOND TOE AND LITTLE TOE HOLDERS
14. Turn your work and ss across the 5sc and then ch 10, stretch over the picot and ch3 and sc into the middle of the 5sc you had made, end off
15. Start a new slip knot, skip over the next picot and ch3, sc into the top of the next picot, 10-12chain, sc into the middle of the 5sc and end off
MAKING THE ANKLET PART
16. Ch7, 2dc in the 1st ch, ch3, 2dc in the same place, ch5, turn your work around, *2dc in the ch sp, ch3, 2dc in the same place, ch5 turn your work around* repeat this till you have 3 ch5's on either side before you join (if you need yours longer then make 4 or 5 ch5's)
You are attaching your anklet part to the opposite part of where your toes are. On the fourth ch5, you start attaching onto the 1st picot (you are attaching to the 3 picots)
so ch3, sc into the picot you had made, ch3, (turn) and finish the row, turn and finish the next row and attach the same way onto the next picot, finish the next row, finish the next row, attach again, and then complete your anklet so that both sides are equal.
17. When you have the same 2 sides, finish with 2dc in the ch sp (only one set) and then make a chain of about 40 or however many you need (this will be tied around our ankle) end off
Take the other side of anklet and join yarn in the middle and ch 40 and end off
Remember that the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on this written pattern.
I am using Bernat Handicrafter cotton which is a size 5 cotton thread and I am using a size 1.80 mm crochet hook.
dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet st = stitch
ss = slip stitch sp = space
ch = chain cnr = corner
Beg ch3 = 1dc
dc tog = double crochet together
Tr Tog = Treble Tog
Tr = treble
PART 1
1. Ch6, ss into the 1st ch
2. Ch1, 11sc in the ring, ss into the ch1 = 12sc
3. Ch4, 2Tr Tog in the same place, ch5, *3Tr Tog in the next st, ch5* rep to the end ending with ch3 (not ch5) and 1dc into the top of the treble cluster = 12 Tr clusters.
4. Ch5, 1dc in the ch 5 sp, Ch5, 1dc in the same sp,
Ch5, 1sc in the next sp, ch5, 1sc in the next sp,
Ch5, 1dc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1dc in the same sp,
Ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the next sp,
ch 3, 3Tr in the next ch sp, ch5, 3Tr in the same sp,
ch3, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch5, 1dc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1dc in the same sp
ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch3, 1dc in the last ch sp
5. Ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
Ch5, 1dc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1dc in the same sp,
Ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
Ch5, 1dc in the next ch sp, ch5 1dc in the same sp,
ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch4, 3tr in the next ch sp, ch5, 3tr in the same ch sp, ch4, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
Ch5, 1dc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1dc in the same sp
ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch3, 1dc in the last ch sp
6. ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp (x7)
ch5, 1dc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1dc in the same dc,
ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, (x4)
ch3, 5tr in the next ch sp, ch8, 5tr in the same place
ch3, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch5, 1dc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1dc in the next ch sp,
ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
7. 3sc in the next ch sp, ch3, 3sc in the same ch sp, (x13)
5sc in the next ch sp, ch3, 1dc in each of the next 4tr, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch10, 1sc in the same sp, ch3, 1dc in each of the next 4tr, ch3, 5sc in the next ch sp,
3sc in the next ch sp, ch3, 3sc in the same ch sp, (x7) ss into beg st
8. THIS IS FOR THE RIGHT HAND GLOVE
Ch10 -15 (check for your size and comfort) skip one ch3 and 1sc into the next ch3,
ch10-15, skip one ch3 and 1sc into the next ch3,
Ch 10-15, skip one ch3 and 1sc into the next ch3, turn your work around
about 7sc in the ch sp, ch3, 7sc (do this in each of the finger holes, if you need less sc do less)
Ch10-15, skip 2 of the ch3, and sc into the 3rd one, turn your work and 7sc, ch3, 7sc or however many sc you need and finish your work.
Now you will make another one of these for your left hand and when you get to this same place you will follow from here
9. THIS IS FOR THE LEFT HAND GLOVE
Ch10 -15 (check for your size and comfort) skip one ch3 and 1sc into the next ch3,
ch10-15, skip one ch3 and 1sc into the next ch3,
Ch 10-15, skip one ch3 and 1sc into the next ch3,
Ch10-15, skip 2 of the ch3, and sc into the 3rd one,
turn your work and 7sc, ch3, 7sc or however many sc you need and finish your work
PART 2
10. Left Hand Glove Thumbhole - skip 1 ch3 and sc into the next ch3, about 20ch, 1sc into the next ch3 finish off.
Do the same thing as no 10 for your right hand
11. MAKING THE BRACELET
ch7, 2dc ch3 2dc in the very first ch,
*ch5 turn your work around, 2dc ch3 2dc in the ch3 sp* repeat this until you have about half the size of your wrist and then you will be joining it onto the hand part
when you join it you will do ch3, sc into the hand part ch3, turn your work and work back on bracelet part until you join again and repeat this. We join in 3 joins and join 4 times (twice in centre join)
Finish off your bracelet with ch2 instead of the ch5 and sc in into the ch5 of prev round, and sew on a small button.
Remember the numbers on the pattern correspond to the numbers on the video.
I am using Red Heart No 10 crochet thread, doubled and a size 3.75mm crochet hook which is a size F
dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet st = stitch
ss = slip stitch sp = space
ch = chain cnr = corner
Beg ch3 = 1dc
dc tog = double crochet together
1. Make a slip knot with 2 yarns (we are doubling our yarn), Ch4, SS into the 1st ch forming a ring
2. Ch3 (1st dc), 11 more dc in the ring (12dc all together), ss into the 3rd ch of the beg ch3
3. Ch7 (1st 3ch = 1dc), skip 1 stitch, 1dc into the next st, ch4,* skip 1 stitch, 1dc in the next stitch, ch4* repeat this around. You should have 6 ch spaces.
4. ss into the next sp, ch3, 4dc in the same space, ch1,* 5dc in the next ch sp, ch1* all the way around, ss into the 3rd of the beg ch3.
5. Ch3, 1dc in each of the next 4 dc = 5dc, ch3, *1dc in each of the next 5dc, ch3* repeat all the way around, ss into the 3rd ch of the beg ch3
6. Ch3, 1dc in each of the next 4dc, ch5, *1dc in each of the next 5dc, ch5* repeat all the way around, ss into the 3rd ch of the beg ch3
7. Ch3, 1dc in next st, 1dc in the next st, 2dc tog over the last 2 stitches, ch9, *2dc tog in the next 2 stitches, 1dc in the next st, 2dc tog in the next 2 stitches, ch 9* rep this around, ss into the ch3
8. Ch3, 2dc tog in the next 2 stitches, 13ch, *3dc tog in the next 3 stitches, 13 ch* repeat all the way around, ss into the top of the 3dc tog.
9. I am changing colors here, ss into the ch sp, *14 dc in the next 13 ch* repeat to the end, ss into the 1st st
10. Ch3, 3dc tog over the next 3dc, 1dc in each of the next 6dc, 4dc tog over the next 4 dc, Ch4, *4dc tog in the next 4dc, 1dc in each of the next 6dc, 4dc tog in the next 4dc, ch4* repeat to the end, ss in the top of the 1st dc tog group.
11. ch3, 2dc tog in the next 2dc, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, 3dc tog in the next 3dc, ch6, *3dc tog in the next 3dc, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, 3dc tog in the next 3dc, Ch6* repeat to the end, ss into the 1st dc tog group.
12. Ch3, 1dc, ch2dc tog in the next 2 stitches, ch 5, 1sc into the middle ch of the ch6 you had made, ch 5, * 2dc tog in the next 2st, 2dc tog in the next 2 stitches, ch5, 1sc in the middle ch of the ch 6, ch 5 * repeat around, ss into 1st 2dc tog group
13. Ch3, 2dc tog all in the same place, ch3, 1sc in the 1st ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch3
*3dc tog in the next st, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch3* rep all the way around, ss into 1st 3dc tog.
14. Ch2, 1sc in the same sp, Ch3,* 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch3, 2sc in the top of the 2dc tog of prev round, ch3* all the way around and ss into the top of the 1st sc.
15. Ch2, 1sc in the same place, Ch3,*1 sc in the next ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the next ch sp, Ch3, 1sc in the next ch sp, Ch3 2sc in the middle of the 2sc, ch 3* repeat all the way around, ss into the 2sc.
16. Ch5 (stands for 1dc and 2ch), *1dc in the next ch sp, Ch2,* repeat all the way around, ss into the beg ch sp (30dc)
17. Ch3, 1dc in the same ch sp, ch2, *2dc in the next ch sp, ch2* rep all the way around, ss into the top of the ch3 changing back to your first color. (29 sets of dc)
18. Repeat row 17, making your 2dc above the 2dc from previous round.(29 sets of dc), ss into the top of the ch3
19. Ch1, * 3sc in the ch sp, ch4, skip the 1st ch and 1sc in each of the next 3ch, 1sc in the middle of the 2dc, * rep to the end finishing with 3sc in the next sp ch4, skip the 1st ch and 1sc in each of the next 3ch, ss in the 1st sc
20. This is the part where you joined the first blue row, If you have too many stitches just skip an extra one, this is more free form than structured
Start with a ss in the 1st dc of the 14 that you had made,* ch1, 1sc in the next 5dc (giving you 6sc) 1sc in the middle ch of the red chain above, skip 1dc and 1sc into each of the next 6dc, ch4, skip the 1st ch and 1sc in each of the next 3ch, * rep between the stars but instead of ch1 make 1sc. Ss into the 1st sc.
Aunt Lydia's cotton in a size 10, doubled and a size 2.75mm crochet hook
dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet st = stitch
ss = slip stitch sp = space
ch = chain cnr = corner
hdc = half a double crochet
tr = treble
Picot = ch3 and ss or sc into the 1st ch
REMEMBER - the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.
Remember we are doubling our yarn
1. Ch7, ss into the first stitch
2. Ch5 (stands as 1dc, 2ch),* 1dc in the next st, ch2* rep between stars until you have 8dc including the 1st ch 5, ss into the 3rd ch
3. Ch4, *2tr in the next ch, 2 tr in the next ch (so that is 4tr in the next ch sp), ch2* repeat in between stars all the way around (32tr all together), ss into the 4th ch
4. Ch4, 2tr in the next tr, 2tr in the next tr, 1tr in the last tr, ch5, *1tr in next st, 2tr in next st, 2tr in next st, 1tr in next st, ch5* repeat to end, ss into the 4th ch
5. Ch4, 5tr tog in the next 4tr, ch5, 3tr in the middle ch of the next ch sp, ch5, *6tr tog in the next 6 tr, ch5, 3tr in the middle ch of the next ch sp, ch5* repeat between the stars to the end, ending with 3ch, 1dc into the middle of the 6tr tog
6. ch7, *1sc in the middle of the ch 5, 2dc in the 1st tr, 2dc tog in the middle tr, 2dc in the next tr, 1sc in the middle of the ch5, ch7, * rep in the stars to the end, ending with a sc in the top of the dc you made
7. ch6, 1sc in the middle of the ch7, *2tr tog in the next 2st (in the dc not in the sc), 3ch, 3tr tog (1 in the same place as the previous st, 1 in the next st and 1 in the next st), 3ch, 2tr tog in the prev stitch (the one you just worked in) and the next st, 1sc into the middle of the ch7,* rep this, ending with a ss and new color
8. Ch5 (3 for our picot), ch2, 1sc into the 1st sc you had made on previous round, *ch2, 1 picot, ch2, 1sc above the 3tr, ch2, 1sc in the next tr, * repeat in the stars to end (you are doing the sc into each of those tr from previous round) ss into the 1st stitch - 24 picots
9. Ch6, 1dc in the sc, 1 picot,* ch3, 1dc in the sc, ch3, 1picot, ch3, 1dc in the sc*, rep in the stars all the way around but instead of a dc in the sc at end ss into the 3rd ch of the beg 6 chain, 1 picot = 24 picot
10. Ch3, 1dc in the same space, 1 picot, ch3,* 1dc in the next space, 1 picot, ch3,* repeat this to the end - 24 picots, ss into the top of the 1st picot.
11. Change yarn if you are changing colors. Restart your work in the 1st ch sp,
Ch3 (stands for 1st dc) 1dc in the same sp, ch2, 2dc in the next ch sp, *2dc in the next ch sp, ch2* repeat to the end (24 sets of dc), end with ch2 and ss into the top of the ch3
12. Ch3, 1dc in the next dc, *1dc in each of the 2dc, ch2* repeat around ss into the top of the ch3
13. repeat row 12 until the length is as long as you want it. I did 4 rows
14. ch3 as a picot, 1sc or 2sc in the next ch sp, 1sc in between the 2dc, *1 picot, 1sc or 2sc in next ch sp, 1sc in between the 2dc * repeat to the end - it is better to do 2sc not 1sc go to the end and ss into the 1st st
I am using Bernat Baby Softee Yarn (size 3) with a size 3.75mm crochet hook
You can do it in a thin thread as well
This will look very nice sewn onto a blanket or a pillow
dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet st = stitch
ss = slip stitch sp = space
ch = chain cnr = corner
hdc = half a double crochet
dtr = double treble
2dc tog = wrap yarn around hook, go into stitch, bring up a loop, go thru 2 loops, wrap yarn around hook, go into stitch, go thru 2 loops, go thru all the loops (be sure whether they are done in the same stitch or in the next 2 stitches)
Remember the Numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.
Body of Butterfly
1. Make a slip knot, ch2 and then do 4dc in the 1st ch, Ch3, turn your work around
2. 2dc in the next stitch (not the very 1st one), 1dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in the chain from the previous round (very last st), ch3, turn work around
3. 1dc in each of the next 5dc, 1dc in the last ch, ch3 turn
4. 1dc in each of the next 6dc, (the last dc in the top ch), ch3, turn work around
5. same as row 4
6. same as row 4
7. 2dc tog in the next 2 stitches, 1dc in the next st, 2dc tog in the next 2 st, 1dc in the last st, ch3 turn
8. 4dc in the next 4 stitches, ch3, turn
9. same as row 8
10. 2dc in the next st, 1dc in the next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in the last st, 3ch, turn
11-14. 1dc in each of the next dc (6dc in all), ch4, turn
15. 2dc tog in the next 2 st, 1dc in the next st, 3 dc tog in the next 3 st, ch3 turn
16. 1dc in the same place as the ch3, 1dc in the next st, 2dc tog in the last st, ch3, turn
17. 4dc in the next 4 st,
18. ch 23, skip the 1st st and ss in the next 3, 1sc in next st, 1hdc, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc, ss in the next 11 st, turn your work, 1dc in the next st, 1dc in next, 2dc tog in the next 2 stitches,
19. ch 20, skip 1, ss in the next 3, 1sc in next, 1hdc, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc, 11ss to the end, finish work and cut off your yarn
PART 2
BRUGES LACE WINGS
1. Ch 7, skip 3 ch and 1dc in the next ch, 1dc in the next ch, ch1, skip the next ch and 1dc in the last ch
2. Ch4, turn work around, 1dc in the very 1st dc, ch1, 1dc in the next dc, 1dc in the last dc
3. Ch4, turn work around, 1dc in the next 2 dc (go into the very 1st dc), ch1, 1dc in the last dc (not in the ch loop)
4. Repeat row 2 and 3 until you have 10 (ch4) loops on the side where you have the 2dc's (watch at the number 4 on video)
5. Finish the row with the 10th ch 4 loop, then
ch4 turn your work around, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in the next 2 dc, this will now be your 11th ch 4 loop on the 2dc side, so ch4 and turn and do 2dc in the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in the last dc,
ch4 turn your work around and 1dc in the 1st dc, ch1, 2dc in the last 2dc, This ch4 loop would have been your 12th loop
6. With your 2dc side facing each other fold your lace and ss into the opp lace's first stitch (watch video to see where if unsure) and into the last stitch, making a circle with your lace. Flip your work around and go into the 1st 2dc with 1dc in each, 1ch, 1dc in the last dc, (you should have 11 ch 4 loops on the OUTSIDE) this ch4 is your 12th loop and turn
7. 1dc in the 1st dc, ch1, 1dc in the next 2dc, NO ch4 on this side, instead we are doing a ch3 standing for our 1st dc, turn work around and 1dc in the next dc (2nd one), ch1, 1dc in the last dc, ch4, turn your work around (this being your 13th loop on the outside you have just made)
8. 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc (the 2nd one is going into the top of the previous ch3 you had made),
9. Ch2, ss into 1st open loop on left hand side's "tape", ch2, turn your work around, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc, ch4, turn your work, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in the next 2dc
10. Same as number 9
11. Same as number 9 except make a dc instead of a ss into the next loop
12. Ch4, turn, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in last dc, ch4 turn work around, 1dc in next dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc,
13. same as number 11
14. same as number 12
15. Ch2, 1dc in the next loop, ch2, turn your work, 1dc in each of the next 2 dc, ch1, 1dc, WE ARE NOW JOINING ONTO THE BODY, Ch2, join onto body with a sc, ch2, turn your work around, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc,
16. Ch2, 1dtr into the same loop as previous row, ch2, turn work, 1dc in the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in the next, ch2, 1sc into body, ch2, turn work around, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc,
17, ch4, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc, ch2, sc into the body, ch2 turn around, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch4, turn around, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, 1ch, 1dc in the next,
18. ch2, join with a sc onto the body, ch2, turn, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch4, turn, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in the next,
PART 3
19. Once you have made your 17th loop finish that row with 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch4 turn, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in the next
20. Your 18th loop is now going to be joined, so twist your tape around so that the 18th loop is still on the outside and we will be joining now onto the 2nd last loop (watch video). So Ch 2, sc into opp loop, ch2, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2, ch4, turn/flip it over, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc,
21. Ch2, sc into the next loop (look at video), ch2, 1dc, ch1, 1sc in each of the next 2 dc, ch2, turn your work around 1sc in each of the next 2sc, ch1, 1dc in the last st,
22. Ch2, join with a sc in the loop that you already joined (the double treble you made) (look at video) ch2, turn, 1dc, ch1, 1sc in the next st, 1ss in the next st, ch2, turn 1sc, 1dc, ch1, 1dc,
23. Ch2, skip the next loop and sc into the next one (joining), ch2, turn, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, 2dc in the last stitch, ch2, turn, 1dc in next st, 1dc in the next st, ch1, 1dc in the next dc, ch1, 1dc in the last dc,
24. Ch2, sc join onto next loop, ch2,turn, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in the next st, ch1, 1dc in next st, 1dc in the next st, ch3, turn your work around, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in the next st, ch1, 1dc in the next st, ch1, 1dc in the last st
25. Ch3, turn your work around, 1dc in 1st stitch, 2ch, 1dc in the next dc, ch2, 1dc in the next dc, ch2, 1dc in each of the next 2dc
26. Ch3, turn, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch2, 1dc in the next dc, ch2, 1dc in the next dc, ch2, 1dc in the last dc, ch2, sc to the opp loop (2nd one), ch2, turn,
27. 1dc, ch2, 1dc, ch2, 1dc, ch2, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch3, turn, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, (1dc ch1 1dc in the same place), ch1, 1dc in the next, ch1, 1dc in the last stitch, ch2, skip 1 loop and sc into the next loop,
28. Ch2, turn, 1dc in 1st st, ch1, 1dc in the next, ch1, 1dc in next, ch1, 1dc in next, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc,
29. Ch3, turn, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in the ch space, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in the last dc,
30. Ch3, (no joining),* 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc*, ch3 turn, repeat in between stars
31. Ch2, skip 1 loop and sc into next loop, ch2 turn, 1dc in 1st dc, skip 1 loop (on RHS) and sc into the next loop, 1dc in the next dc, 1dc in the next dc, 1sc in the next loop, 1dc in next dc, ch1, 1dc in the next, ch1, 1sc in the next loop, ch1, 1sc in the next dc, 1sc in next loop, finish off
Make the other wing the same way, make sure your butterfly's head is facing up and not down when you attach the next wing.
